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Reply With QuoteHave you got a link to the actual bath?
Knowing the weight would help.
Heavier bath than acrylic - will joists need beefing up?
Son is wanting to install a "stone" bath that he says is a mixture of half/half stone/resin into a house built 1969. It is replacing a smaller acrylic bath. I've googled and found some are 70% stone and 30% resin. Heavy.
My concern is that any bath heavier than acrylic may require the joists to be beefed up or extra joists installed. Photos show the area under the existing bathroom. That back wall is a bessa wall, hopefully core filled, but no way of telling. There is a crack in the wall of the downstairs bathroom and we are not convinced it was core filled. You can see the plumbing under the shower. The bath sits between that and the back wall where the chair sits. (That is not me in the photo, by the way.)
The joists in this house are pretty deep already, so I wonder whether they could take the extra weight of a larger, heavier bath. Having watched The Block and other reno shows, I'm concerned they will need to beef things up to hold the weight of a full bath and possibly two people.
Thanks.
Have you got a link to the actual bath?
Knowing the weight would help.
Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.
They haven't chosen one, but here is one I prepared earlier...
Free Standing Infusion Stone Bathtub - Snowflake - $2,999.00 : The Stone Super Store, Your one stop stone shop
This one weighs 138kg, and I guess they all probably weigh about the same, but don't know.
I'm hoping they won't spend this much, but that is their decision. I just want them to be safe and not fall through the floor in the tub.
i don't believe 138kg will be an issue.
that is simply the equivalent of a person standing in the middle of the floor holding something heavy.
Of course, best seek professional advice to confirm.
we put in a cast iron clawfoot bath (Double Ended Bath | Schots Home Emporium, Melbourne, Australia) which from memory was around 200kg with the weight on 4 relatively small feet (rather than spread out across a larger area).
its likely that the subfloor is fine for that kind of weight but if you're concerned then there could be another bit of steel put in as a support going diagonally across the area where the waste is shown in your pic (assuming that is where the bath is).
Not sure of rules/regs in QLD but here in VIC if you're touching a bathroom that means bringing it up to 'code' which would mean making the wood floors you have as a base waterproof, i.e. 'tanking' the bathroom.
I guess one concern I would have longer-term for a bath is ensuring that there is no leaks or possibility of water pooling and causing weakness/failure. Bit hard to tell from the pics as to whether there is any concerns there or not.
Thanks for that. There is no tanking and there are two lots of tiles over each other. It will be all stripped out, 6mm villa board screwed down and tanked properly. The room below will be turned into living so this all needs to be sorted before they lose access.Originally Posted by president_ltd
i don't believe 138kg will be an issue.
that is simply the equivalent of a person standing in the middle of the floor holding something heavy.
Of course, best seek professional advice to confirm.
we put in a cast iron clawfoot bath (Double Ended Bath | Schots Home Emporium, Melbourne, Australia) which from memory was around 200kg with the weight on 4 relatively small feet (rather than spread out across a larger area).
its likely that the subfloor is fine for that kind of weight but if you're concerned then there could be another bit of steel put in as a support going diagonally across the area where the waste is shown in your pic (assuming that is where the bath is).
Not sure of rules/regs in QLD but here in VIC if you're touching a bathroom that means bringing it up to 'code' which would mean making the wood floors you have as a base waterproof, i.e. 'tanking' the bathroom.
I guess one concern I would have longer-term for a bath is ensuring that there is no leaks or possibility of water pooling and causing weakness/failure. Bit hard to tell from the pics as to whether there is any concerns there or not.
I've asked a builder his opinion. He has seen the house, so hopefully he can advise whether or not to add some more timber. I would be inclined to do it anyway, just to be on the safe side.
It probably more in the domain of a structural engineer rather than a builder. It'll probably just come down to allowable/tolerable deflection of the floor (and ceiling below).
There is no middle ground between facts and fallacies - argumentum ad temperantiam
Your not using villa board on the floor are you?
You only need to lay some tile underlay sheets onto the floorboards. Cheaper, lighter, faster to install and as the whole floor has to be waterproofed anyway, no problems.
Just make sure the waterproofing system has a good membrane, not just a paint on job.
Good luck.
Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html
I think it is compressed AC sheeting. Hubby knows what he is doing, has done several bathrooms before. I've probably just used the wrong term, but it is the really thick sheeting, screwed down. It will be properly tanked by a specialist company.
There are no issues with a hubby who knows what he is doing in conjunction with a plumber who knows what he is doing.
The problem is me if I've used the wrong term for the product. Sorry
Weight should be fine - that compressed sheeting will be AC ie: asbestos cement. Fine so long as you do not drill, sand or otherwise create dust when dealing with it. If you need to make any new holes read up on the asbestos stickies re safety.
Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.
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