How to dry damp foundations after remediating drainage issues? We've had some upheaval recently due to poor drainage of heavy rains from reactive soils, which caused cracks and stuck doors throughout the house.
I think I've addressed the problem by adding some corflute against the house as a semi-rigid barrier, with ag-pipe to get the bulk away from the house - it's not advised to use ag-pipe (according to these excellent videos from Cornell Engineers), but I'm confident that it's a semi-decent fix for now.
The issue I have now is that there's still moisture under the footings, and it doesn't seem like it will evaporate quickly. I've taken photos and market a line in the sand (so to speak), to assist tracking its movement over time.
I'm not sure what my options are to get the moisture out from this space before mold gets out of hand. Is damp-rid at all useful, or should I just get some circulation down there while it's still warm? Is it just a matter of time?
Quick reply is unless you have laid the ag pipe lower than the top of the foundations, and, it flows freely downhill/downstream to kerb or outlet, and, sealed the external wall down to the level of the ag drain,
then you have wasted your time.
The core flute is ok once you have done the above but only to protect the wall sealing from the rubble/stone
A pic or drawing of the home will certainly get you more info.
Is the house on a slab or on stumps/piers?
It’s on brick piers, which are in reasonable condition.
Photos TBA, but there is essentially a ‘shoreline’ of damp looking dirt about two metres from the bricks.
In that case, make sure you have enough air inlets to the subfloor and run some fans to bring fresh air in and moist air out.
The article you linked to actually mentions this : ‘We don’t design ventilation systems for subfloor areas but with some careful Googling, you’ll find online resources to help you calculate the volume of air that needs to be changed out and a couple of options for fans, ducts, vents, inlets, outlets and timers.’
Good tip - there’s a Bradford EcoFan product on the HammerBarn website but cripes they're dear and only available via special order.
For the short terms I’ll keep the crawl space door open to get a cross draft, and might rig up some fans inside with a couple of smart switches. I’ve also got some IOT humidity sensors, which might come in handy to monitor the situation over time.
I’ll report back in a week or so, and will get some pics uploaded once I’m on a computer.
you can buy the eco fans from bunnings
https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/p...stOrder&page=1
I think the prices have gone up since I bought them as per my thread here
https://www.renovateforum.com/f198/m...bfloor-129739/
Remember if you don't sin, then Jesus died for nothing
Why are these fans so expensive. I'd consider them for my subfloor, but just seem a little too pricey for a fan. What is special about them?
I'm no expert, but know enough to be dangerous...
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Did you knock out your existing vents, or cut new holes out?
the only thing i can see that is special is that they have a switch on them that lets you run them at:Originally Posted by Gooner
low
med
high
humidity
other then that probably paying for a brand name and possibly the fact I think they're still made in australia rather then china?
Remember if you don't sin, then Jesus died for nothing
Hammerbarn also has IXL 170mm Ventair Easy Duct which is half the price. The top review is from someone who uses one to vent their subfloor. Best to keep the receipt though.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ixl-170m...-duct_p4449333
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