Glass kitchen splashback

Hi,

Our glass splashback was custom cut, and is behind the cooktop, as is the one at our son's place. Both have been good. The backgrounds were plasterboard and rendered brick respectively. The installers used silastic to stick it on.

Cheers

I am given to understand it's not just any silastic as some will come/show through the painted surface.
The ones I printed were tempered glass and depending on the brand you need to ask for the glass that does not have the standard green "cast", some call it "Starfire". Much more expensive that standard glass as well...
Also any holes need to be cut before tempering. And be aware once tempered even a bump on an edge or corner will have catastrophic consequences.

I'd be a bit suss of that size piece of glass for that money and how can you ship it for $9?

Don't ask me how I know, suffice to say it was 2600 x 900mm...

Thanks for your input/advice, David.Elliott & GeoffW1

Well, I thought as it's under $50 I'd buy it. Got it in one piece...6mm thick as advertised. Seems ok to this untrained eye.

GeoffW1, was the rendered wall you fixed it to, painted. Does silastic stick ok painted surfaces?

David.Elliott, do you know what type of silastic is appropriate? And I don't understand what your last sentence means.

"Don't ask me how I know, suffice to say it was 2600 x 600mm..."

Yep you're right, that don't make no sense where it ended up...

I had a job to print 10 panels of 2600 x 600 glass for trendy office tea/coffee spaces to make 5 x 5200 x 600 splash backs with 5 different forest scenes..I bumped the corner of one with another one, when moving them around ....and...let's just say I had to get another piece of glass cut and tempered...

Seems like that may be black glass rather than glass with black paint on the back...so if thats the case you can use whatever silastic you like...

The painted ones are susceptible to the silastic reacting with the paint...effectively the benchtop it sits on takes the weight, so the silastic only needs to stop it falling forward..

Cannot remember the code but there's a great Sikka product I used instead of liquid nails, which is crap, red and yellow tube, it does not actually go hard.....

David.Elliott, moving 5200x600 glass panels sounds pretty scary to me. I amazed you only chipped a corner. I reckon I would've ended up doing a lot more damage than that!

I think it is black glass. I'll see if I can locate the Sikka. Bunnings has long yellow sausages of Sikka. Is that the one? Will it hold ok on painted render, or do I need to strip the paint off?

Thanks again for your advice.

Ours are stuck on with Glaziers silicone direct to paint.

That's it, Johnc?! Stuck on and that's all you need to do. Sounds great. Do you know where glaziers silicon is sold?

Neutral Cure clear silicon.
Thanks Pitto

Don't let them confuse you with the acetic cure (just in case your glass is painted).

Thanks phild01. How will I know if it's acetic cure?

Originally Posted by noggon

Thanks phild01. How will I know if it's acetic cure?

It should be written on the cartridge. Silicones are pretty much the same thing despite the choices, basically the two types are called acetic cure or neutral cure. eg roof and gutter silicone is neutral, kitchen and bathroom silicone is acetic.

Originally Posted by Pitto

Parfix 300g Clear All Purpose Silicone I/N 1232674 | Bunnings Warehouse

Thanks for your help Pitto and phild01, and your patience!

One more question...is the silicone applied just to the edges or all over the splashback?

You don't need to go mad with it, just a bit of random application in runs, not blobs, and not to the edge. Get some double sided tape on it as well to keep it in place while it sets.

Thanks phild01 and Pitto.
Do you think painting the wall black would be an idea?