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How do you do bulkheads above cabinets

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  1. #1
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    Default How do you do bulkheads above cabinets

    Hi. I’m currently planning the cabinetry for our kitchen, butlers pantry and WIR’s.

    They will all have floor to ceiling cabinetry in various places.

    Actually, not quite right up to the ceiling. I want the cabinets to stop short of the ceiling and a bulkhead above.

    I’m currently thinking the bulkhead will be only 100 or 200 mm deep. Pretty much like the photo below

    https://www.masterbathroomsandkitche...3152240DF.jpeg

    I’ve done these a few times previously and have used either a precisely cut strip of melamine faced particleboard with gap filler, or used conventional gyprock and plaster. I’ve never really been happy with the effort involved vs the result in either case.

    So I’m guessing there must be better ways. So how do others make these bulkheads?

    Cheers
    Arron

    And in case it makes a difference - the gyprocking is all squareset, the doors and drawer fronts most likely polyurethane, the walls are 2700 and I’m not fixed on the 100 or 200mm depth at all.

  2. #2
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    I have seen them made from MDF and paint, I do them from gyprock
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by METRIX View Post
    I have seen them made from MDF and paint, I do them from gyprock
    Over a lightweight timber frame I expect, pinned top and bottom?

  4. #4
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    they done mine out of MDF

  5. #5
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    Im like metrix. I did mine from gyprock but they have to be spot on and usually built prior to cabinets going in . Most cabinetmakers install cabinets, then put the MDF bulkhead on top.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arron View Post
    Over a lightweight timber frame I expect, pinned top and bottom?
    Yes, I prefer gyprock as I have seen the MDF type crack between joins for longer runs and on external corners
    Also if yours is square set it would be better to have gyprock bulkhead set to the ceiling instead of MDF due to better compatibility for movement.

    You can either make one frame that's fixed to the ceiling, set it, then place cabinets under this and lock it in place with a few screws through the tops of the cabinets.
    This method would need to be made using a laser as a guide to ensure all cabinets once fitted are level as the bulkhead would set your heights / level.

    Or you can fix a frame to the ceiling and a separate one to the cabinet tops, once all cabinets are in fix a few uprights between the two frames and gyprock over it.
    This method is better if you have a ceiling that's not perfectly flat, as you set the cabinets in place using a level or laser and take up any discrepancies with the frames / gyprock.

    That's how I did my ones as the ceiling was out by 20mm from one end of the room to another, and was easier to set the frames in situ rather than try to get the levels over the nearly 5m run
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

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    Thanks guys.
    Its been worthwhile putting this post up because it’s changed my thinking.

    I think I will build the bulkhead framework first and line it with gyprock, so the plasterer can do the squareset join to ceiling before he leaves. Otherwise it will be a slow and difficult job for my plastering skill level and too costly if I have to call a plasterer back.

    So after the cabinets go in, they will be butted up to the bottom of the bulkhead gyprock. How is the join between gyprock and melamine cabinet top usually handled?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arron View Post
    So after the cabinets go in, they will be butted up to the bottom of the bulkhead gyprock. How is the join between gyprock and melamine cabinet top usually handled?

    Just left butted up, you set the bulkhead back 10-20mm and as it is above eyeline you dont see it.

  9. #9
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    or you could square set it in line with the doors to create a shadow line.

  10. #10
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    I set them 5mm back from the cabinet (not the door) then no more gap it.

    Below is my kitchen ones, I oversized the upper cupboards so they were only 20mm lower than the cornice (2500 ceilings).
    Would have been good to take them all the way to the ceiling but the house has 90mm cornices so couldn't do it without mucking up the other rooms next to the kitchen.

    Around the fridge I square set the opening set the doors 5mm back from the opening and shadow lined the perimeter of the cupboards, it was a real pain to get it all right as the wall had a twist in it (many hours were spent coming up with a fix and a bit of witchcraft fixed it).

    It was like an out-of-wind door (this used to be a solid brick wall I knocked it down) so originally it looked flat

    I went for the shadow line as I didn't want end panels on there spoiling the clean look,
    The shadow line looks good, but when I did the cupboards black, the shadow line sort of disappeared , the gyprock has been tidied up around the edges since this photo, as it was taken during the initial installation test fit.





    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20210209_193256.jpg   20210209_193306.jpg   20201121_162633.jpg  
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