Replacing just kitchen kicks and panels

I'm surprised you have had trouble with insurance, after all the policy should have a clause somewhere stating cover for bursting or leaking appurtenances.

I have never honestly heard of a slow leak not being covered.

Love to know who the insurer is so I don't go near them.

As for the kicks I don't see a problem just replacing the kicks but it will be very labour intensive and somewhat awkward cutting to suit the floor, and of course cabinet makers make more money doing full kitchens and don't like anything out of the ordinary.

FWIW cabinets are in the top expenses in a home

Your plan sounds feasible to me.

Thanks for the responses. In this case I was NOT "Luckyyyy you're with A***".

There is a clause in their PDS saying if it's a "slow leak" it isn't covered. I asked for a flow rate and they couldn't respond. Stated damage was already there before the fitting burst.

Anyway, scribing panels to the floor would be painful, especially without the right tools - a router? Also tiles were laid after kitchen was installed so top of tile level is higher than bottom of skirts, which are sitting on slab. Either way I think I'll have to find cabinetmaker to at least measure on site.

Originally Posted by eek

Also tiles were laid after kitchen was installed so top of tile level is higher than bottom of skirts, which are sitting on slab.

This is normal as usually all floor cabinets are fitted before the floor is laid.

Ive never replaced kickers on a tiled floor so just a thought to potentially make it easier/cheaper given insurance has failed to cover the job:

1. have the kicker boards cut short just below the top of the tile to enable an easier fit
2. You might be able to simply have the kicker boards cut to floor level without any real noticeable difference in the end result. Fit a small test piece to see how it looks cut out of scrap...even a different color as your simply determining if the bottom looks ok. If there is a slight noticeable gap, then options may be place a Masonite packer behind so it brings it out 3mm.

A couple of thoughts:
If you make the side and rear panels go down to floor level then they will be vulnerable to water damage - spills, mopping the floor etc. Especially relevant if you replace the damaged panels with the same material as it doesn’t seem to be very waterproof. I agree it will look a lot better then the current gratuitous kick boards though.

Secondly, if it’s on a timber plinth then does that really need to be replaced? Real timber should have withstood the flood as long as it dried out shortly after. If you want the flush-to-floor look then just pack out the plinth with something waterproof till it’s at same level as the cabinet carcass.

Thirdly, If you do kickboards again do them so they are removable - for example the ones held on with clips that go over those adjustable plastic cabinet legs. Some of ours are held on with Velcro. Allow a slight gap at top which is hidden by the cabinet overhang, and which stops moisture travelling up to the cabinet and makes them easy to remove.

The damage seems to be extensive for what occurred. Is that panel material even moisture résistent?