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replacing kitchen walls

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  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Sep 2009

    Default replacing kitchen walls

    I'm new to this forum, but have spent many a night reading through alot of information, I found it so great I needed to get on here to ask all out there some things of my own.

    We're about to reno a whole kitchen. The old kitchen has some
    FC asbestos sheets on the walls from the floor to about 1.2M high, and is attached with a aluminum tracking to the plaster boards that cover the rest of the walls to the ceiling. We have had half a wall knocked out and finished already so some of the FC sheets have gone, and the gaps have been patched up with gyprock.
    As we are going to do the whole kitchen the rest of the FC is going to be taken out too.

    What is the best type of wall to use in a kitchen?
    I've read a bit about using water proof plaster board or fibre cement board, for wet areas.

    Because there is already some gyprock to replace the FC sheets in areas that don't need tiling, we are worried about everything being flush when we install the rest of the kitchen walls in the wet areas.

    I know this all depends of thickness of sheets. Being quite new to this I'm unsure! can you get the right thickness of sheets to tile on top of that will match up with the gyprock.

    The other issue we have is behind our oven the wall has been replaced with a new sheet of gyprock. This obviously needs fire walls of some other fire protective wall. If we place the fire wall sheet on top of the gyprock, will it protrude out to far from the adjoining walls. This will be getting tiled too. So we are worried the final tile finish will not be flush.

    Can any one give us some solutions or advice.

  2. #2
    Concepteur Sybarite's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005


    One thought for you - if you are using 5mm+ ceramic tiles for your splashback you don't need to increase the heat resistance of the sheeting behind them; this only needs to be done for glass and stainless steel splash's.

    There is some information in the notes of point 3 regarding fire retardant requirements in this document:



    Designer - Retail; Exhibition; Kitchen

  3. #3
    Mr Sexy Beast dazzler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Northern Rivers NSW


    We did our whole kitchen like you and had similar issues. I think in the end it is far easier to rip the lot out (safely) and fit new stuff. Sheeting is pretty cheap and you can correct any insulation probs.

    Have fun.
    I just love sheepies!

  4. #4
    Diamond Member Terrian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Kilsyth, Victoria


    We shall be redoing our kitchen in the not too distant future, wet area plasterboard is what we shall be using.

    Why do you believe the plaster behind the oven needs to be fireproof, or is it the cook top you are concerned about ?

    Tiled spalshback behind the cook top will do the trick.

  5. #5
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Sep 2009

    Default plaster board or tile backing?

    Thanks for the tips lads.

    After more inta net research.... there is too much out there.

    I found some websites with lists of plasterboard types and variations in size etc etc etc.

    I think the wet area plaster board sounds like the best option for thickness and having everything line up.... Can you tile straight onto this these plasterboards??? I have been reading about tile backing board of 6mm thick to that goes on top of plasterboard. I'm assuming this is for when you don't have a wet area plasterboard on the wall already?

    I've found some plasterboard manufacturers do fire stop and wet area combined boards for heated areas. These would be a good option for behind the oven, most of the thickness of the boards range from 10-16mm. Tiling on to these hopefully won't need tile backing either???

    Thanks for all your replys

  6. #6
    1K Club Member Master Splinter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005


    Gut the walls entirely. Trying to do patches here and there is both time consuming and silly - especially if you are using different materials in the patched areas, as different material have different expansion rates.

    Chip/plane/sand off any old adhesive from the wall studs, make sure that they are all straight, and re-sheet in standard, off the shelf in bunnies, 10mm recessed edge plasterboard. If you really want, you can use wet area plasterboard, but that's as far as I'd go.

    The various fire related boards are basically a case of line extension by the manufacturers:

    Marketdroid 1 - "How can we make more money from our product line?"
    Marketdroid 2 - "I know, lets try making sales of industrial fire rated boards to the residential market, we've got much higher margins on that stuff!"
    Marketdroid 1 - "Hey, yeah, we can totally sell it on the safety aspect - research shows home owners will always pay a premium for stuff if its labelled 'eco-friendly' or 'safer'!!!"
    Marketdroid 2 - "Sweet, there's our bonus target met for for the year - pass the nose candy, and give me your mobile so I can call those hot chicks with cash influenced moral standards!"

    I mean - do you really need 20 minutes of fire resistance...the rest of the house will have burnt down in that amount of time!!

    Tile backer is for use on timber floors. You can tile direct onto plasterboard walls.
    DIY electrical wiring to AS/NZS3000 - details here - http://goo.gl/9d33T (PDF file)

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