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best floor coating?

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  1. #1
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    Default best floor coating?

    Hi,
    Just wondering what is the best floor coating (varnish, polyurethane, oil) for indoor pine floor boards? We have 100 yr old floor boards that's been polished a couple of times so we don't want to sand (maybe just to take a bit of the existing varnish off) and then apply a few coats of polyurethane. I heard tung oil is pretty good. But I have no experience in this area...
    I have a dog so hardwearing is pretty important...

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    Quote Originally Posted by baileyboy View Post
    Hi,
    Just wondering what is the best floor coating (varnish, polyurethane, oil) for indoor pine floor boards? We have 100 yr old floor boards that's been polished a couple of times so we don't want to sand (maybe just to take a bit of the existing varnish off) and then apply a few coats of polyurethane. I heard tung oil is pretty good. But I have no experience in this area...
    I have a dog so hardwearing is pretty important...
    There's no such thing as 'best' only what you can best live with.

    We have used tung oil or at least a variation of it on our floors. Works a treat but needs a feed with a floor polish every six to twelve months to keep it looking its best and help make it easier to clean. With poly et al. it doesn't need the feed but then it doesn't like being scratched either and those scratches are much harder to fix.

    Ask yourself how much effort are you prepared to put in to keep the floor looking good enough for you to live with...
    Joined RF in 2006...Resigned in 2020.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, I think for me wear and shine is what I want. Because we have a dog, I need a hard coating especially with pine (new house). We have hardwood floors at the moment (current house), and its water base polyurethane and it seems to be ok except its not as shiny as I would like.

    Would it makes much difference having a professional coming into do the job (quoted $4K) or hiring a sander from Bunnings ($90) + 2 x 10litre of paint @$200 = $500 all up.

    Obviously a professional does it all the time.... but surely, if i put some elbow grease on it and use the right polish then it should have similar results? Have people tried and got a good result?

  4. #4
    Senior Member shanetorque's Avatar
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    Default best floor coating?

    As a professional I'd say use a professional!
    I use three different machines with a multitude of different grit sandpaper and techniques for each. But $90 hire machine should give you the same result!
    On coatings, I'd have a search on the forum, as everyone has a different opinion. Unless you sand back to raw timber don't use tung oil because it isn't too good at sticking to other types of coatings or polish. If you're not sanding back to raw, do your prep, choose your coating, then apply about a square metre and let it set. This will allow you to check for adhesion.
    Australian Timber Flooring Association Contractor of the Year 2012/13

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    Quote Originally Posted by baileyboy View Post
    Would it makes much difference having a professional coming into do the job (quoted $4K) or hiring a sander from Bunnings ($90) + 2 x 10litre of paint @$200 = $500 all up.

    Obviously a professional does it all the time.... but surely, if i put some elbow grease on it and use the right polish then it should have similar results? Have people tried and got a good result?
    Don't for the Love Of Insert Preferred Deity Here think that DIY floor sanding & finishing is a good idea. You can get the same results but it'll take far far longer than you think and cost more than you expect - if you think you can hire the sander for $90...good luck. Wait till you see the cost of the sheets. And it'll take three times as long as you expect.

    A professional took nine hours to sand our whole place including the kitchen. We'd already sanded the kitchen area previously before the cupboards were in...that took three days.

    How much upheaval can you cope with or are there bigger and better fish to fry?
    Joined RF in 2006...Resigned in 2020.

  6. #6
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    $500-so that bloody floorsander gets $3500 for 2 1/2 days work. Not bad coin for calling past bunnings-

    Hire machine $90 per day + papers
    20 litres of poly $190
    edger $45 per day + papers
    Mohair roller $25
    Solvent-need extra to defluff new roller cover $50
    Rotary sander $90 per day + papers
    2.5kg aqua putty $27
    Sandscreen discs $48
    Mate to help him $250 per day
    Petrol
    Insurance/Public liability if that bunnings sander catches fire
    plastic bags

    Is the $500 saving worth it?
    Why not ask a pro a price to sand only

  7. #7
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    I have gone the DIY route once, if your short on cash and have lots of time then nothing wrong with giving it a go, just take on board the other comments, it will take you much longer than you think and the costs add up.

    However if you are doing a full house reno then floor sanding falls into the same category as setting plasterboard joints, you can do it yourself but it is much more cost effective to get someone else to do it so you can work on other things.

    If you do decide to go DIY make sure you test out the machines and get the hang of them in a small area before you tackle the full rooms. When I was doing it I didn't have the screws in the drum tightened enough so they were protruding, in my first 90 seconds of using a floor sander I covered the room in gouges that then took hours to sand out

    Also some of the coatings will raise the grain so you will need to sand in between coats, which means more rental time to consider.

  8. #8
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    While I'm all for DIY, floor sanding is one area I think it's better to go with a professional. To DIY, chances are it'll cost you more than you'd think, take you longer than you'd think and give you a result worse than you'd think.

    If I were you I'd get a few more quotes for the entire job, get it properly punched, sanded and finished. If you have dogs inside then I'd probably go with an oil finish and just do the maintenance when required. Long term I think it will be the best option to keep your floor looking nice. A poly finish is hardwearing but once you get scratches they are there until you strip it again, and there is always the potential for edge bonding. For pine boards in particular I think oil would be best, pine is fairly soft so a really hard finish like a polyurethane might just create issues for you, particularly if you go the DIY route.

    So yes I'm just repeating what everyone else has said, but go for a professional with an oil finish IMO.

  9. #9
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    thanks for the advice fellas. We have taken possession of the house yet so still trying to do the planning and weighing up the costs. My problem is that I have to paint the walls first. Also, I need to move into this place as soon as possible to reduce my costs. Therefore, I'm considering doing the floor first and then making sure I cover the floor fully when I paint the ceiling and the walls. The problem is that the ceiling is flaky so it will be messy. The alternative is to move in, do it room by room which makes it hard plus lots of lap joints.

    So I'm in a bit of dilemma... another thing to consider is that floor isn't that bad at the moment as it has been repolished couple of times before, so I don't want to take anymore off. I'm considering doing a very light sand and then recoat. Speaking of recoat, I've looking at youtube, a lot of people seem to be using the rollers rather than the sheepskin applicator which I think is a bit odd...

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  11. #11
    Senior Member shanetorque's Avatar
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    Default best floor coating?

    Don't have time to watch the video at the moment as the wife is on my case, but it looks like parquetry in the picture not strip flooring so filling is different.
    Australian Timber Flooring Association Contractor of the Year 2012/13

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