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Raising a sunken room

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  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Perth WA

    Default Raising a sunken room

    Hi Guys, I'm in Australia, I have a big useless room at the back of the house which is to become the new BIG kitchen. Where the house was extended by previous owners they have extended on to a bedroom, knocked the wall out, but then made a step down into the extension (which is now the big useless room). I want to raise this sunken room to suit the "bedroom" floor level and then lay timber flooring throughout to create a nice flowing kitchen with no steps. I've already installed a new stacker door out on to our new deck which is at the same level as the bedroom. See image

    I plan to install a subframe to raise the floor up 148mm (450mm centres), then a 22mm flooring ply, then the blackbutt floorboards throughout. Therefore one portion of the room will have blackbutt laid on concrete slab and the other on the subframe/ply.

    Two questions with the subframe.
    1- I'm looking at purchasing H3 treated pine 4200x190x45, cutting these down to 148mm, (using the offcut lengths as noggins) and then placing them straight on top of the concrete with brackets and masonry anchors to secure in place - is this normal practice, or should the joists be raised off of the concrete slab?

    2- Can anyone recommend brackets from Bunnings which would suit the purpose of fixing into the concrete slab?



  2. #2
    1K Club Member Pulse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Port Macquarie

    Default Raising a sunken room

    why H3? I'd use H2 70x45 on the flat as bearers, 90x45 joists with a 15mm packer at intersection points.

    I'd use ultraset with a few hammer in masonry anchors for the bearers and skew nail or batten screw the bearer joist connection.

    Ripping 190x45 is a PITA and will have a few kickbacks thrown in.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Sydney, north


    H3 or H2. Ripping of KD timber can result in twisted and bent timber. As pulse suggests, lay the 45 and then 90 joists with maybe 12mm ply packers.

  4. #4
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Sydney North


    Use 140 and put 8mm packers under it. H2 is fine for this job no need for H3 as it's not outside.

    Dont bother ripping down 190 unless your good with the circular saw, although it's not hard just un necessary.
    Put blocks between the joists to stop them tipping over.

    To fix to the ground, all you need is something to stop it moving, we usually put a 70x45 on its flat, fix this to concrete with Anka screws 8mm should be fine, then shoot thorough the joist into the block fixed onto the concrete, it won't move.
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

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