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Steel beams to steel posts

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  1. #1
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    Default Steel beams to steel posts

    A bit of a follow on from a previous post, I prob should have started a project thread.

    Anyways, I have sunk my four 75x75x4000 (4mm wall) steel gal posts into 400x700deep (100mm corbel) concrete and am now ready to attach the single span 150x50x7000 (4mm wall) gal steel beams.
    I am only using two beams parallel to the house with no rafters as the roof is going to be 50mm or 75mm insulated panel, 4m long.
    My question is: What's everyones thoughts on attaching the beams to the post tops?
    My first plan was to cap the posts with 75mm angle, sit the beams on and weld.
    I could also check out the posts and again weld the beams in position.
    Thirdly, I could check the beams and bolt using crush tubes and high tensile bolts.

    Thoughts?

    Ralph

  2. #2
    Owner Builder Belair_Boy's Avatar
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    G'day Ralph

    I am checking out the posts and welding the beams in position on my steel veranda construction.

    I think welding is neater than the bolt option but I guess it all depends on how good your welding is.
    Tools are good, more tools are better!

  3. #3
    2K Club Member barney118's Avatar
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    Default

    in NSW council require steel to be designed by engineer, they slapped a clause on my DA to protect their butt so I didn't use steel, if you weld you will need to protect coatings on the metal to prevent corrosion.
    cheers Look out if I have a tape measure in my hand.....I'm upto something

  4. #4
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Default

    My preference for substantial steel structures is flange bolting.

  5. #5
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    What is stated on your approved building plan/s?

  6. #6
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    Default

    Thanks for the replys.
    As yet, I do not have an approved set of plans....sort of.
    I was intending to build from a set of approved plans my builder mate used to erect similar some months ago.
    I was then going to get this build and another small reno certified at the same time.

    I know what you are saying, tsk tsk, and I agree. BTW, my builder mate is a registered builder and has erected a few pergolas in steel, hence the dimensions and advice.

    As it transpires, I now want to change the plans a little to incorporate another project so am gunna bite the bullet and engage a certifier to discuss a building permit for both of the projects as they interact.
    Probably against forum rules (not sure) but if anyone could recomend a local NW Brisbane certifier I'd be happy to contact him. Other wise it's the phone book for me.
    I must stress that I haven't gone into this project blind, I was copying a known certified build. Still guilty, but hey, it happens.
    Anyway, thanks for the advice, I have decided to check the posts, weld the seams and affix bolts and crush tubes as it's no bother either way.

    Cheers
    Ralph

  7. #7
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    Well, I have been busy and still managed to make some progress on my pergola roof/deck.
    It's been a while so I'll update before I ask further advice from you knowledgeable folk.[IMG]file:///C:\Users\THESMI~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\ 01\clip_image001.gif[/IMG]

    I understand that without piccies or a back story it may gobbledygook, so I'll try to add some later.[IMG]file:///C:\Users\THESMI~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\ 01\clip_image002.gif[/IMG]
    I changed my plans and as a result engaged an architect and engineer to draw plans and footings suitable for council submission. I incorporated a small verandah/deck with the pergola so I can build all with one set of footings.
    I was surprised that the engineer said I couldn't span more than 3.7m with 150x50 so insisted on another post. In good news though, I am able to attach the verandah deck to the house using a pole plate/ledger so that will save me heaps.
    I have been digging footings like crazy, as they are to be 900x450! In other good news, I am able to span the roof in 50mm insulated down from 75 so a real cost saving there too!


    The engineer made some changes to the plans, namely called for two more posts so 6 in total, but agreed with the materials I have chosen being steel 75x75x4 posts, steel 150x50x4 roof beams, steel 150x50x2 deck bearer, F14 hardwood 150x50 ledger and F14 hardwood 125x50 deck joists.

    I was approved to fix the deck ledger to the house by 300mm bolts going through the brick veneer and main house bearer at 600 centres. I expected to have to erect posts!

    Anyways, I have now done all that and am ready to sheet the roof. It'll be 50mm solarspan with all the matching barge capping, fascia and stuff.

    Herein lies my first question:
    When I lay the electric cable in the conduit channel of the solarspan sheet, is it necessary to run it through actual conduit?
    I have not been able to get a consensus answer from either of the electricians I've asked. One said yes, 2.5mm cable laid in conduit, the other said no, lay it direct into the channel but using flex for entry and exit points. Who's right?

    I'll also ask this question in the electrical section as I am unsure which section[IMG]file:///C:\Users\THESMI~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\ 01\clip_image003.gif[/IMG]

    My second question related to the original post ...kinda:
    I have been approved to weld all beams and brackets which I have done but I also used mechanical fixing as well namely bolts. Is it ok to 'do extra' or should I have only done what the plan says?

    Cheers.

    As before, I'll put it all in perspective with some piccies soon

    Ralph

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