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Reply With QuoteYes, but it's a lot more expensive than mixing your own.Originally Posted by ajm
bedding in a bath tub can premix sand and cement be used to bed in the bath tub?
Yes, but it's a lot more expensive than mixing your own.
Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html
oldsaltoz, where do you go for sand and cement? nursery or harware store? i have a local mitre10 which gives me everything i need at decent prices so don't venture to the green shed if i don't have to. however, they keep telling me to buy mortar instead. what is the difference between mortar and "sand and cement"? is it the mix ratio? i saw in another thread, you (I think it was you, anyway) suggested 3:1 red sand to cement - is that correct?
i have a related offtopic question: can you lag copper hot water pipes under the house and in the walls? Someone told me this could be a fire hazard? any ideas?
You need 'washed sand' the washing removes any clay content and helps prevent cracking, available at any number of places including your local plant nursery.
The ratio I use is 3 to 1 but use 4 to 1. Moisture content is critical and should be on the dry side of a normal mix.
Copper pipe should be lagged, particularly in concrete as the lime reacts with the metal. Lagging is common for hot water pipes particularly in colder areas, not done up here in the tropics though. Your supplier should point you in the right direction as there are a number of options re the rating for fire and insulation ratings.
Good luck.
Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html
what a shi+ of a job that is. i mixed up the mortar last night in roughly the proportions 4:1 using a bucket that previously held 8kg of washing powder. in doing so, i found a great new use for the kids old plastic dipping pool. i lugged the mortar up our three stairs in a milk crate and started stuffing. oh, i ringed the inside edge of the hob with old pavers on edge to stop overflow and flat ones on the floor to help keep the mortar of the FC flooring. Still, what a mess! I used a couple of lengths of wood to push it through to the wall side and pack it and then filled up the tub. seemed solid as a rock this morning. it did make some noises while settling which I think might be a spot or two under the rim where the hob frame somehow doesn't touch. i will try to get something in and under there to pack it. all in all, i am happy enough with the result, so far. being a critical fussy bugger, i will find problems given enough time, especially with my own work.
for anyone about to do the bath instal themselves, I would like to make a few suggestions. This is how i will do it next time, if there is a next time...
- get the shower over bath into the exact position you want it, where the waterproofing lip will be under the FC wall sheets, and your drain will connect with no problems.
- fix you hob to the floor so it will not move
- mark the height of the bottom of the bath on the hob frame
- lift the bath out again, or atleast up at one end.
- put bricks/pavers down or whatever you have to help fill the space (mixing and carrying mortar is hard on the back)
NOW do the mortar
- pack the mortar to the height of the bath bottom (use the mark on the hob made earlier)
- drop the bath back down/in
- half fill with water to settle it down.
- once settled in, connect waste and install wall sheeting
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