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How to remove very stuck, now mutilated, bathtub drain?

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  1. #1
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    Default How to remove very stuck, now mutilated, bathtub drain?

    I am attempting to remove an original 1950s enamel bathtub, but the brass drain is stuck fast.
    Have cut notches, applied cold chisel and hammer. Tried rotary hammer.
    Bathtub base is lower than concrete floor of bathroom. no access from below.

    I thought of cutting the iron tub in a circle around the drain, but very tough with an angle grinder.
    Am fantasising a pile of thermite around the drain.
    Any better suggestions please?
    Maybe cut the brass with a dremel-style tool from inside?


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails drain-stuck.jpg  

  2. #2
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    I'm thinking the one we have in storage does not unscrew. Now I think about it how did it ever go in?

  3. #3
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    Cut the bath around the waste.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by plum View Post
    Cut the bath around the waste.
    How do you recommend that be done? Do I just need a better disc for the angle grinder?
    The tub is very heavy iron.

  5. #5
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    Probably a better disc, I cut c.i. often with my 225mm angle grinder.

  6. #6
    Slow but rough Uncle Bob's Avatar
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    It may even break with a good whack from a hammer. Ensure you're wearing safety glasses of course before trying this.

  7. #7
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    I removed a cast iron bath tube using goggles and a 5 k sledge hammer. It takes a bit of swinging and hitting in the right spot before it cracks. Be careful with the flying ceramic coating, it is nasty.

  8. #8
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    Problem solved. Thanks for the replies folks.
    A pick-axe was the answer. Did the job with a few good swings - I did not know cast iron was so brittle.
    The 5kg hammer probably would have worked if I had one.

    Now, I wonder if I can break it in two to be easier to remove?

  9. #9
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    Just some quick tips if you encounter this problem again in future:

    You could get a drain key and a crescent wrench to help to expand the hole so that you can turn the drain out. If the drain’s cross bar is broken, this can take a lot of work. You need to bend the outer lip of the drain up. You can use pliers to do this. Once the lip is bent enough, use some channel locks to get it off. You may also need to use a hammer to push up the grips and spray some WD40 under the drain lip to help you get it out. This may take some time though.

  10. #10
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    [QUOTE=mike100jobstodo;981091]Just some quick tips if you encounter this problem again in future:

    You could get a drain key and a crescent wrench to help to expand the hole so that you can turn the drain out. If the drain’s cross bar is broken, this can take a lot of work. You need to bend the outer lip of the drain up. You can use pliers to do this. Once the lip is bent enough, use some channel locks to get it off. You may also need to use a hammer to push up the grips and spray some WD40 under the drain lip to help you get it out. This may take some time though.[/QUO

    Tell me/us if you sourced this information from 'u' tube or if you have actually performed this task? Most of the bathtubs I have dealt with of this ilk (cast iron vintage) have had a solid brass 2"(50mm) plug & waste. I believe your so called quick tip is of foreign origin and has little relevance to local standards of plumbing practices in Australia. Furthermore, to tighten or loosen a threaded plug and waste to any fixture weather it be basin, bath, sink or trough is done via a locking nut on the underside of the fixture. The locking nut cannot be removed from from above

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