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Ideas on how to cut self tappers inside cavity door???

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  1. #1
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    Default Ideas on how to cut self tappers inside cavity door???

    Hey all,

    My FC was put up over my cavity doors with self tappers. They are now protruding into the cavity and will interfere with the doors when they go in. I can't fit my multitool in the space, it's too small to get in my bolt cutters. I don't have the hand strength to cut the ends off with dikes.

    Anyone got any ideas on what might work to cut the point ends off these buggers?

    Thanks in advance!

    20201019_110805.jpg

  2. #2
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    To clarify this is in my bathroom, if this isn't the right spot for this let me know and I'll re post elsewhere. Thanks!

  3. #3
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    Can you take them out grind the ends off then refit?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bros View Post
    Can you take them out grind the ends off then refit?
    Unfortunately the tile has already been done. I didn't notice till I tried to fit the doors.

  5. #5
    Golden Member havabeer's Avatar
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    rough method:

    1. hack saw through as much as you can
    2. then bash with a length of pipe and hammer to bend it over enough it doesn't protude through or snaps off

    number one is optional
    Remember if you don't sin, then Jesus died for nothing

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by havabeer View Post
    rough method:

    1. hack saw through as much as you can
    2. then bash with a length of pipe and hammer to bend it over enough it doesn't protude through or snaps off

    number one is optional

    No idea how I forgot hacksaws exist. I'll give that a crack and see if I can get one in there. Thanks :P

  7. #7
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by havabeer View Post
    ... then bash with a length of pipe and hammer to bend it over enough it doesn't protude through or snaps off

    number one is optional
    That will likely crack the tiles, though you might have missed the latter post.

  8. #8
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    I wasn't terribly keen on the pipe bit but if I can get the hacksaw in there and cut the ends off it'll be more than enough. It's a question of mm rather than cm.

  9. #9
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    Try one of these.
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-3...k-saw_p0191082
    If not long enough tape a length of broom handle on
    "A big boy did it and ran away"

    Legal disclaimer denying responsibility to be inserted here.

  10. #10
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Those tek screws might be further in than a hacksaw blade and well out of reach. Might be able to hook a wire blade over them.

  11. #11
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    The wire saw is an interesting concept. I can get my hand/arm in the cavity so the little hacksaw might be the go, just going to take time I suppose.

  12. #12
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    Who put the FC up ?, call them back and ask them to fix the problem they created.
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

  13. #13
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    Why not run a circular saw across the door to cut clearances for the screws? It might become a new bathroom "feature" to replace the ubiquitous vertical strip of coloured tiles.
    Before you speak, ask yourself: Is it necessary, it is true, does it improve on the silence? - Baba

  14. #14
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    Get a new hacksaw blade that is 32 teeth per inch, screw one end to a wooden stick that is say, 35x20 about halfway down the blade, and tape the rest to the schtick with duct tape. Now you have a hacksaw with an extension that will take you there.
    Hack away at your heart content.
    Although I must agree with Metrix. Call the moron and tell him to do it himself
    Quote Originally Posted by John2b View Post
    Why not run a circular saw across the door to cut clearances for the screws? It might become a new bathroom "feature" to replace the ubiquitous vertical strip of coloured tiles.
    I was going to suggest using an oxy torch to cut it but then realised not everyone has one of those.

  15. #15
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    That saw idea would be cool but unfortunately they aren't evenly spaced and there's more than one row of them. The little hacksaw thing is working well just tedious but will get there in the end.

    We went with floor to ceiling tile and made the shower area walls the same as the floor tile as a feature, all the bathrooms around here are entirely white with a strip of glass tile so we wanted something a little different.


    20201008_135506.jpg

  16. #16
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    Haha I can't imagine how wrong it would go if I fired up an oxy in side a timber cavity door. I like the way you think though.

    Unfortunately some people don't answer their phones after they get your money. Can't expect too much more for a Gumtree special.

  17. #17
    Senior Member YoungBolt's Avatar
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    Who is the moron who is so inattentive to their work they screwed a FC sheet onto plaster without checking if there is a stud behind it. Fingers crossed they managed to get the rest of the screws on the stud.
    This is 101 basics of attaching FC to the wall. Pinning the sheet to the plaster is about as useful as if he attached the sheet with snot.

    This should be their problem. Call the dummy to get them to struggle and cut the end of the screw.

    Hack saw is a good idea but you will be doing it for a while. You might also be able to use an aggressive file as well. Just sticky tape it to the end of a broomstick or painters pole.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by YoungBolt View Post
    Who is the moron who is so inattentive to their work they screwed a FC sheet onto plaster without checking if there is a stud behind it. Fingers crossed they managed to get the rest of the screws on the stud.
    This is 101 basics of attaching FC to the wall. Pinning the sheet to the plaster is about as useful as if he attached the sheet with snot.

    This should be their problem. Call the dummy to get them to struggle and cut the end of the screw.

    Hack saw is a good idea but you will be doing it for a while. You might also be able to use an aggressive file as well. Just sticky tape it to the end of a broomstick or painters pole.

    There is no plaster on the FC side. The plaster is only on the other wall which is the hallway wall. The FC is attached to metal stringers that go from floor to ceiling joist to support the weight of the FC/Tile over the timber cavity door.

  19. #19
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    This story reminds me of someone who "installed" a kitchen cabinet for my daughter and screwed the back of the Ikea cabinet that is 3mm MDF to the plaster missing all of the studs but two.
    The thing is empty, hanging in there on a wing and a prayer waiting for me to take it down and install the rail supplied for it, that was laying inside the cabinet.
    Some real gems doing the rounds.

  20. #20
    Golden Member havabeer's Avatar
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    I actually did a similar thing when re attaching my skirting boards with the nail gun. Used too long a nail. Luckily it was only some little brads and not screws so they bent over easy
    Remember if you don't sin, then Jesus died for nothing

  21. #21
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by havabeer View Post
    I actually did a similar thing when re attaching my skirting boards with the nail gun. Used too long a nail.
    I take a grinder to the gun brads and cut down to size.

  22. #22
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    Unfortunately you are more than likely going to still have problems , any protrusion of screws will eventually scratch the door when weight is put sideways on the door, it will push up against the frame rails , the tip of the screws have to be taken off below the surface of the frame rails somehow.
    inter

  23. #23
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by havabeer View Post
    I actually did a similar thing when re attaching my skirting boards with the nail gun. Used too long a nail. Luckily it was only some little brads and not screws so they bent over easy
    You must have seen the movie mousehunt

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