My Ikea Kitchen Install project

It is good to hear other peoples reno stories - Thanx .

I've done several Ikea Kitchens and they hold up very well. One that I put in 14 years ago is still going strong without water damage. Now when I assemble the cabinets I seal the joining edges with polyurethane sealant - especially in under sink cabinets............ But geez I find assembling the things tedious ... I dont know why ..it is supposed to fun isnt it.

Hi DD,

Good to hear the Ikea kitchens stand the test of time. I'm impressed with the blum hinges, drawer runners, soft close and the drawers themselves.
I was a bit worried about water damage if anything happened with the sink. As the cabinet is in situ but no water connected (no pipes in the way etc) should I seal the joins now? I'm guessing I can seal them on the inside of the cabinet? (never sealed anything before).

thanks

Wow, i'm suprised that people are happy with the ikea kitchens. They're made in china so i'm not too sure how they would last in the long run. I reckon they're rip-off though, same as bunnings kitchens. It's probably half the price if you get it done through a private company - espically if you go looking around (they would usually beat other companies prices).

There's probably about $500 or less worth of wood (for the carcass) in your average kitchen. Laminate benchtops are about $90 per meter and doors are $50-100 each

Originally Posted by big_gumbo

Wow, i'm suprised that people are happy with the ikea kitchens. They're made in china so i'm not too sure how they would last in the long run.

Just because something is made in China does not mean bad quality. I wouldn't call an iPod bad quality nor this 22 inch LCD monitor I'm looking at.

Originally Posted by big_gumbo

There's probably about $500 or less worth of wood (for the carcass) in your average kitchen. Laminate benchtops are about $90 per meter and doors are $50-100 each

Wood is just one cost of the kitchen. The interior fittings like the drawer runners and saucepan pull outs are most of the cost. A three drawer 80cm cabinet from IKEA cost $490 with a middle of the range front. The same 80cm cabinet but with two doors and a shelf is $245. Having high quality Blum drawers doubles the price.

Actually nothing in my latest Ikea kitchen is made in china according to the boxes, CZechoslavia (carcasses), germany(handles,board fasteners), austria (BLUM metablok slides hinges and runners), italy (heat sealed polyester high gloss doors,drawer fronts).

The only downside with ikea kitchens from a construction point of view is that they dont use Moisture resistant board in cabinetry (but they do use very high strength wafer core chipboard which has a shear strength 3x that of local MR chipboard).

It is worth running a bead of polyurethane sealant around the inside base seams and around waste pipes - just in case someone leaves the hot water tap running.

Originally Posted by inside

Just because something is made in China does not mean bad quality. I wouldn't call an iPod bad quality nor this 22 inch LCD monitor I'm looking at.

Wood is just one cost of the kitchen. The interior fittings like the drawer runners and saucepan pull outs are most of the cost. A three drawer 80cm cabinet from IKEA cost $490 with a middle of the range front. The same 80cm cabinet but with two doors and a shelf is $245. Having high quality Blum drawers doubles the price.

I agree with your point about China. They don't (usually) make bad stuff but they mass produce everything and cost ikea very little. They're probably built the same way as we make them here but the standards for making the wood boards wouldn't be as good as they are here. Then Ikea give them some fancy names and mark up the price so much. You would be better off buying from a local manufacture who will usually do everything they can to get your business which usuall means giving you the best price


With draw runners, they only cost alot if you have soft close runners - about $30 a pair. Normal runners that you see on most cupboards only cost a few bucks each and ball bearing runners (mainly seen on filing cabinets) cost about $10 for 500mm long.
Not sure what saucepan pull out are but i know a lazy susan cost about $200-250.

I'm just giving you a guide on what they really cost compared what ikea charges

Originally Posted by big_gumbo

Wow, i'm suprised that people are happy with the ikea kitchens. They're made in china so i'm not too sure how they would last in the long run. I reckon they're rip-off though, same as bunnings kitchens. It's probably half the price if you get it done through a private company - espically if you go looking around (they would usually beat other companies prices).

There's probably about $500 or less worth of wood (for the carcass) in your average kitchen. Laminate benchtops are about $90 per meter and doors are $50-100 each

big_gumbo, any private companies you recommend in Melbourne?

It has been my experience many times over that if you want fancy pullout fittings and even lots of drawer units then IKEA wipes the floor with any local kitchen company in terms of price.

Even if you have existing cabinets and you want a few pull out shelves or drawers you can buy the Blum fitting at Ikea at substantial saving over cabinet makers supply outfits - reason IKEA now owns BLUM and Ikea is the primary importer of Blum fittings in Australia through one of its local distribution companies.

Hi Trav,
I went locally for 3 quotes and went through with each designer details of a folder showing my wish list of look and inclusions as well as a preliminary design that I had come up with.
First quote was $19,000 incl splashback and benchtop and trades PLUS appliances. Very small kitchen design with minimal storage.
Second quote was $20,000 PLUS trades, plus splashback plus benchtop plus appliances. Better design.
Third quote - best design so far, but that $20,000 price range again. PLUS trades plus splashback plus benchtop plus appliances.
IKEA I have more cabinets than in any of the above designs, glossy doors as well as some frosted glass doors, a rollup appliance cabinet, a lazy susan for my corner cabinet, Blum drawers and fittings. Cost $7,500 plus $250 delivery to Canberra. You can see none of the local companies came anywhere near this.
Even allowing that I have paid for help with the install, cost-wise I am ahead so I can also get the caesarstone benchtop, the glass spashback and the quality appliances in a kitchen that I love. Only downside is my fault in that its taken me so long to install.

Originally Posted by Tabby

big_gumbo, any private companies you recommend in Melbourne?

You can try claytons kitchens. Biggest kitchen manufacture in melbourne. They pump out 300 kitchens a week!

http://www.claytonsgroup.com/homepage.jsp?xcid=1

i love ikea litchen i could go on and on about the cheap and tacky feeling towards them. but it is really as simply as two things. economies of scale and that they are flat packed .
But i would never buy there bench tops . spend the extra money you save on the cabinets on stone tops.
i but a Essa stone 'Ciro' top for $2800 on some cabinets from ikea that cost $3,000 and the resault was incredible
i have some pics if anybody wants to see them .

rob

ditto.

Its interesting the comments in regards to the IKEA kitchen benches. I too was a sceptic until I was dragged by the wife to IKEA on the weekend. The kitchens seem to be of a high quality and at a 1/3 of the price you can get anywhere else.

When I get around to renovating the kitchen, I can assure you will will look seriously at IKEA. I will also look locally to find a local supplier, but after seeing the IKEA kitchens I am a changed sceptic

I guess with any kitchen, its how it is looked after. The one in my house is only 6 years old and its getting worse for wear. It was a rental house for the last 5 years and not cared for that well. At the end of the day, I guess care in installation and maintenance is a key factor in the longevity of a kitchen.

Cheers
Steve

I also wasn't / havent been keen on Ikea benchtops but they now have a new range made in Australia which I might checkout on my next visit.

Originally Posted by big_gumbo

You can try claytons kitchens. Biggest kitchen manufacture in melbourne. They pump out 300 kitchens a week!

http://www.claytonsgroup.com/homepage.jsp?xcid=1

Thanks big_gumbo, I'll check them out

Clayton does their kitchens flat pack as well

We bought the Ikea 30mm solid Beech benchtops and used them in our flatpack reno, only really cos they were cheaper than post formed laminate !!

Didn't do proper biscuit/clamp joins underneath though... wish I had cos theres a bit of movement.

Just on the point of Ikea lights - A range of the fittings are double insulated which means from a renovation point of view they can legally be installed on a 2 wire system (live and Nuetral) which is the system found in many older houses (no earth wire). IKEA are the ONLY place I know of to get double insulated interior light fittings.

this is great info and relevant to my needs

I'm planning a complete IKEA kitchen and have been reading up in the forum here

So the positives for IKEA are

- cheap price
- best drawers/runners (BLUM) (is that right , they are the best?)

then negatives are

- the wall cabs are hard to install(is that right? and why?)
- the bench tops arent good, or the join is bad (?)

could somebody clarify these please..

any other positives and negatives ??

Originally Posted by Daren

this is great info and relevant to my needs

I'm planning a complete IKEA kitchen and have been reading up in the forum here

So the positives for IKEA are

- cheap price
- best drawers/runners (BLUM) (is that right , they are the best?)

then negatives are

- the wall cabs are hard to install(is that right? and why?)
- the bench tops arent good, or the join is bad (?)

could somebody clarify these please..

any other positives and negatives ??

Well i dont consider them cheap because i know the real cost price of materials/hardware etc. But if they're cheaper then other quotes you've got, then buy ikea.

I'm wondering how you install the ikea overheads. They only have a 3mm backing with no rails or solid back. How do the screw to the wall?

As with the benchtops, the join is only going to be as good as the person who installs it

Originally Posted by Trav

Thanks - the price seems excellent. I can feel a trip to Ikea coming on...

I'm after a kitchen with the full kit of soft close drawers etc, but the cost is simply extraordinary. The kitchen place I went to wanted an extra $90 per drawer for bl;um metabox - a price I can't justify.

Trav

Same, I'm seriously considering Ikea too for a modern looking kitchen. I reckon whilst still a little bit pricy, the Ikea drawers with the metal inside look heaps better than standard wood ones that a cabinet maker will do. I think that as long as you stick to a neutral scheme (maybe just white) and a nice benchtop, no one will know
it's Ikea.

Daren,

Generally Ikea kitchens are much cheaper than a local kitchen company becuase you do the assembly and installation yourself. It is possible to achieve a high end modern look for about the price of a melamine finish from a kitchen company.

The very latest glass front drawers and doors have to be seen to be believed - Ikea's price for 600 wide 3 drawer unit with glass fronts (in black or white) - $600 - local high end kitchen outfit price here on sunshine coast - $1400 (but you can have any color you like)

The cabinetry needs to have the cut ends sealed with polyurethane during assembly becuase the whiteboard is not moisture resistant except for top battens on sink units.

The hardware fittings are all top range - BLUM - they work smoothly for years and years in my experience. Hinges, drawer fronts are all adjustable.

Fixing wall cabinets isnt hard. It is best to plan for wall cabinetry if you have a timber frame house - you'll need nogging in the wall running at the height of the top edge of your wall cabinets ie the top edge of the nogging is level with the top edge of the cabinet. The cabinets are held to the wall with special L brackets (supplied) usually fixed in the upper back corners of the cabinet. If you have brick or block walls then you just fix with a dynabolt.

Alternately you can run a batten across the wall top and bottom and fix brackets into the top batten.

A few strange looking screws come with the L brackets - these must be used to fix the L bracket to the cabinetry - no other design of screw will do because the whiteboard has an engineered core which is very strong and the design of the fixing screw is important.

Benchtops - well - in the past benchtop has only been available in set lengths and widths - meaning if you needed a L corner it got a bit dodgy. You would have to butt join the top and use a cover piece to hide the join. The LOgan Ikea near Brisbane (being the biggest in Australia) now offers custom made benchtop in laminate or epoxy stone. I dont know how the prices compare or what the range is like.

I've made about 14 kitchens over the years and have found the Ikea jobs to be excellent value and generally very durable - but the bit I like most is that if you get sick of your choice of doors/drawers you can always change them - both the style and the layout ie turning a drawer unit into a pull out unit or a cupboard.

Hope that makes things a bit clearer.

if anyones interested grays auctions have beautiful kitchens with granite benchtops already made up you need a truck to get them home they have wood ones and white 2 pack designs rather large in size with glass door overheads i havnt brought one yet but i wouldnt buy bunnings again i got the cheaper version from bunnings and got what i paid for the benchtops are useless and totally not practical for a kitchen i only brought a small one 800mm pantry 900mm under sink 800mm corner cupboard 450mm drawers 900m cupboard & 600mm drawers and no overheads all up cost me $1500.00 but i will never use them again 3 years on and they look cheap bench tops are marked the plastic coating they use is splitting on one door and 3 drawers.if i had of known about the auctions i would have got 1 from there at $3500.00 to $4500.00 absolute bargain.im pretty sure grays are in most capital citys give them i try they also have laminate bench tops if you dont want granite.

HI BingoS - I have looked at those kitchens and have been mostly impressed with them - except I was told that to disassemble, frieght it, and reinstal them would cost me about 2K if someone else did it. Still they are decent option.

hi doogie i was going to hire a thrifty truck weekdays $89.00 3 tonne can use with normal licsence includes 100kms they run on diesel cost me $120.00 for fuel to drive 600+kms so great on fuel .and if you stick to laminate bench top you can cut holes for sink hotplates yourself and relatively easy to install they have adjustable legs to make leveling easier.cheers shelley

This is my new Ikea kitchen. Hope the pics work. First time picture poster.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...7/Kitchen1.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...07/Kitchen.jpg

If they work i can ramble on a bit more if anyone is interested.
Greg

HI Greg - is that Ikea benchtop you used? How much did you spend if you dont mind me asking?

All Ikea stuff. From memory it come to around $5400.00. The better doors and glass added more than I wanted but it looks great. Benchtops are Ikea, the black/grey pattern. I was a bit tight and used the jointing strips on the corners. I had them powder coated to suit as they were aliminium. They also didn't make a top long enough to mitre the corners. I had to cut down a corner base and drawer cabinet to get enough room for the dishwasher. Around 30mm came off the backs. I took the same of the back edge of the top. The drawers are excellent.

Originally Posted by Dirty Doogie

Daren,

Generally Ikea kitchens are much cheaper than a local kitchen company becuase you do the assembly and installation yourself. It is possible to achieve a high end modern look for about the price of a melamine finish from a kitchen company.

The very latest glass front drawers and doors have to be seen to be believed - Ikea's price for 600 wide 3 drawer unit with glass fronts (in black or white) - $600 - local high end kitchen outfit price here on sunshine coast - $1400 (but you can have any color you like)

The cabinetry needs to have the cut ends sealed with polyurethane during assembly becuase the whiteboard is not moisture resistant except for top battens on sink units.

The hardware fittings are all top range - BLUM - they work smoothly for years and years in my experience. Hinges, drawer fronts are all adjustable.

Fixing wall cabinets isnt hard. It is best to plan for wall cabinetry if you have a timber frame house - you'll need nogging in the wall running at the height of the top edge of your wall cabinets ie the top edge of the nogging is level with the top edge of the cabinet. The cabinets are held to the wall with special L brackets (supplied) usually fixed in the upper back corners of the cabinet. If you have brick or block walls then you just fix with a dynabolt.

Alternately you can run a batten across the wall top and bottom and fix brackets into the top batten.

A few strange looking screws come with the L brackets - these must be used to fix the L bracket to the cabinetry - no other design of screw will do because the whiteboard has an engineered core which is very strong and the design of the fixing screw is important.

Benchtops - well - in the past benchtop has only been available in set lengths and widths - meaning if you needed a L corner it got a bit dodgy. You would have to butt join the top and use a cover piece to hide the join. The LOgan Ikea near Brisbane (being the biggest in Australia) now offers custom made benchtop in laminate or epoxy stone. I dont know how the prices compare or what the range is like.

I've made about 14 kitchens over the years and have found the Ikea jobs to be excellent value and generally very durable - but the bit I like most is that if you get sick of your choice of doors/drawers you can always change them - both the style and the layout ie turning a drawer unit into a pull out unit or a cupboard.

Hope that makes things a bit clearer.

thanks mate. much appreciated.

I'm planning a trip to Ikea Logan (6 hrs drive) but I want to get my design sorted before I go. Need to see the kitchen colours etc. in person before I buy though and I might see something I havent thought about while Im there too( ie glass door cabinets)

Hope it will all fit in the van for the trip home

One other problem with Ikea is that sometimes they are out of stock of one or two items. It could be drawer fronts - or some panel - so they will back order for you. If the trip there is a bit of a drag you should probably check online to make sure the bits are available.

It is interesting to hang around in the kitchen displays - lots of tradies always around sussing out the fittings.

Originally Posted by gregt

This is my new Ikea kitchen. Hope the pics work. First time picture poster.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...7/Kitchen1.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...07/Kitchen.jpg

If they work i can ramble on a bit more if anyone is interested.
Greg

Greg, looks great mate

now, heres my questions

can you tell me what size your wall cabs are ? theyre not all the way to the ceiling are they?

thats the Lidingo colour/scheme, right? wall cabs the same?

do they provide end cover panels the same as your door colour?

what kickers, did you use?

can you tell me all about that pantry please? - dimensions and why is that bottom handle in the middle there?

thankyou

its a top looking kitchen IMO

Originally Posted by Dirty Doogie

One other problem with Ikea is that sometimes they are out of stock of one or two items. It could be drawer fronts - or some panel - so they will back order for you. If the trip there is a bit of a drag you should probably check online to make sure the bits are available.

yeah will do. tis a bit tedious tho, checking each and every item. I wish they had a button on their planner that could check all your selected items in one hit, rather than one at a time.

Darren,
I did all the planning on their planning tool. Then went to the shop. Man there are millions of people in there. I did have to go back for the bench tops. Only a 4 hour drive but I should have checked first.
Wall cabinets are the bigger ones at 920mm as the ceiling is 2800 ish. They still stop heaps before the ceiling. I thought the smaller ones would look too small with a big gap above. Colour is Lidingo for all doors and cover panels. I think the kick panels were the same. If not you can't tell any difference. The pantry is a 600 x 600 x 2170 (FA511). It has a botton slide out section with slide out drawers and a hinged door up the top with slide out baskets so you can see from below. Only problem is unless your 7ft tall you need a small step ladder to reach. Do you want a pic of it opened?
It's probably too good for a rental house like this is but worked out cheaper than custom made. Maybe get the tops done by a pro if your going to use it yourself.

Originally Posted by gregt

Darren,
I did all the planning on their planning tool. Then went to the shop. Man there are millions of people in there. I did have to go back for the bench tops. Only a 4 hour drive but I should have checked first.
Wall cabinets are the bigger ones at 920mm as the ceiling is 2800 ish. They still stop heaps before the ceiling. I thought the smaller ones would look too small with a big gap above. Colour is Lidingo for all doors and cover panels. I think the kick panels were the same. If not you can't tell any difference. The pantry is a 600 x 600 x 2170 (FA511). It has a botton slide out section with slide out drawers and a hinged door up the top with slide out baskets so you can see from below. Only problem is unless your 7ft tall you need a small step ladder to reach. Do you want a pic of it opened?
It's probably too good for a rental house like this is but worked out cheaper than custom made. Maybe get the tops done by a pro if your going to use it yourself.

yeah mate, any more pics you got would be great

I was thinking of putting two 195mm high by 400 mm widepantries side by side (FA506).

my ceiling height is 2400. I was thinking of getting the 920mm wall cabs and then put cornice around the top so they are essentially built-in. Can this be done? (ie -is there room for cornice across the front top that wont impede the opening of the doors)

I was contemplating the Lidingo or the Applad white. I want a sort of cream colour.

How many choices of colour for benchtops do they have? i could only see 2 on the site (white and beech)

any other tips or tricks?

oh yeah, how did you hang the wall cabs?

Daren,
If your going to put two side by side I would ask them if you would need an end panel between to give the doors some room. Maybe not required but a thought. With the cornice you would need to set the top of the wall cabinets down 75mm or your cornice size but you will need to screw some MDF on top for it to stick to. Shouldn't be too hard.
We originally started out with Applaud White because of price but went with the dearer one. It does look better. We kept the Applaud in the laundry and you can see the difference. Both are white. Lidingo might be a tad creamier but not much in it. The handles on the cabinets are white but no-one has picked it yet.
They had a few bench tops on display. Around six from memory. Get a copy of their kitchen book sent out. Everything in there.
With the corner cabinets I has some melamine edged on one side and cut to fit inside the high cabinets. Glued and screwed from the sides then into a stud. Not going anywhere now. See pics.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ntrybottom.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ghCabinets.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q.../Pantrytop.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...7/Cnrbrace.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...allbracing.jpg

I forget who mentioned it, but someone suggested Ikea has bought Blum.
Does this mean that Ikea have available the corner drawer units and the flip doors for wall cabinets that Blum make?


Also, is it easy to alter an open wall unit? My space is around 3cm bigger than 3 wide wall cabinets, so I wonder if I could just buy 4 smaller cabinets
and cut one of them down to shorten?

Could just put on two end cover panels. I think they are about 15mm each and there is your 30mm. Just a thought.

Yeah thanks, thought of that, but when I say 3cm, it's not exact. I don't want to be stuck with an odd 5mm of space that I have to silicon... not that anyone would prob notice, but I always would, if you know what I mean

Originally Posted by gregt

Daren,
If your going to put two side by side I would ask them if you would need an end panel between to give the doors some room. Maybe not required but a thought. With the cornice you would need to set the top of the wall cabinets down 75mm or your cornice size but you will need to screw some MDF on top for it to stick to. Shouldn't be too hard.

ah, I see what you mean. But after looking at your pics, the gap between wall cab and ceiling looks good to me (less work too) So Ive changed the plan to have the smaller wall cabs (my ceiling ht. is 2400)

After seeing the pic of your 600 mm pantry and looking at a 600 mm in real life, I've changed the plan from 2 x 400 mm pantries to a single 600 and then more bench space (200mm )

600 seems like plenty of room, IMO (for a 3 bedroom house

We originally started out with Applaud White because of price but went with the dearer one. It does look better. We kept the Applaud in the laundry and you can see the difference. Both are white. Lidingo might be a tad creamier but not much in it. The handles on the cabinets are white but no-one has picked it yet.

I actually liked the colour of th Applad (from their website, that may change in person) and the lower price seemed like a bonus. But I like thelittle design thing on the Lidingo. Lidingo might be the go if it looks better in person ..
so what handles did you get?

They had a few bench tops on display. Around six from memory. Get a copy of their kitchen book sent out. Everything in there.
With the corner cabinetsI has some melamine edged on one side and cut to fit inside the high cabinets. Glued and screwed from the sides then into a stud. Not going anywhere now. See pics.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ntrybottom.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ghCabinets.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q.../Pantrytop.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...7/Cnrbrace.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...allbracing.jpg

oh, I see. that seems like a good plan (takes note)

I can understand the wall cabs, but why did you have to do it for the corner cabs? just to screw into a stud, is it?

thanks for the pics too

Hi Encino

- Most of the available BLum fittings are used somewhere within Ikea's stock range. The flip, flip and fold, flip and slide, and gas strut gull wing fittings are used on some Lounge room display cabinets (or were in the 2007 range) - you wont find them in the kitchen cabinet section but they will fit on IKEA kitchen door panels and cabinets - if you try and take the fitting and put it on a NON Ikea cabinet you might need a 2mm packing shim.

I dont think they have the corner drawers though.

And I don't know whether they sell the more expensive fittings separately. All I know is that the gull wing fitting sells in cabinet supply places for $350 but you can buy the same fitting complete with 3 mirror gloss door panels for $420.

Do you mean the corner high cabinets? They still only have the 3mm backing so need something solid to screw through into a stud. Screw them top and bottom. This is a pic of the Applaud laundry cabinet. A lot plainer but cheaper. Also found some of the old kitchen.

I just wanted to comment on what a nice job you have done. I must admit I'm somewhat biased because the Lidingo kitchen is exactly the one we have been eyeing off as well whenever we go to Ikea for a perve.

I'm wondering what they are like to work with as u-Shaped kitchens...??? Are they better as galley or L-shaped kitchens or can you work them to be suited to a u-shaped kitchen?

For those of you wondering why the heck you'd swap a galley kitchen for a u-shaped kitchen, I've attached the old a new floor plans which will no doubt convince you that the u-shaped is the way to go.

Cheers,
Lotte

Mine is a u-shape. As mentioned I had to modify a corner cabinet and a drawer cabinet by around 30mm for it to allow the dishwasher to fit. No drama though. The drawers had plenty of room at the back and the spinny thing in the corner unit still fitted. I trimmed the same of the back edge of the bench top so the leading edge was level with the pantry. Select oven first though as they do not do a 900mm oven base unit. A friend just got caught out with that one.

Originally Posted by gregt

Mine is a u-shape. As mentioned I had to modify a corner cabinet and a drawer cabinet by around 30mm for it to allow the dishwasher to fit. No drama though. The drawers had plenty of room at the back and the spinny thing in the corner unit still fitted. I trimmed the same of the back edge of the bench top so the leading edge was level with the pantry. Select oven first though as they do not do a 900mm oven base unit. A friend just got caught out with that one.

This may sound a bit silly (I think my brain space has been taken over by placenta), but I don't actually understand how you modified these cabinets? What did you then do with the doors?

Also, we've got a 900mm oven and rangehood, but it's the freestanding type. Thanks for the tip though )

Cheers,
Lotte

You can't cut down the doors. Forget that idea. What i needed to do was make an opening about 610mm wide for the Dishwasher. I only had 580mm and it would not fit so on the base cabinet side panels and base panel I cut 30mm off then put the backing on as normal. Make sense?