Question for the tilers G'day all,
Just been surfing through some of the past threads on bathroom renos and came across the discussion on order of floor and wall tiling. The things you don't think of eh! In considering both sides, it occurred to me that ; if you are going to do the walls first, and start at the second row....how do you mark the guide line so it can be seen while tiling, as I would presume you want to run the adhesive beyond the edges of the tile for good adhesion, thereby covering the guide line?
By the way...it's a scary moment when you actually hammer the fist nail into the sheeting hoping you've done everything right under, or behind it eh!!!
Hard to know which way to go sometimes when you get 6 different experts giving you 7 different opinions!
After you mark the line (about 2 thirds of a tile up) you attach a batten to each wall to stand the tiles on, this prevents wet tiles slipping down the wall. Many tilers use alloy angle for this with pre drilled holes at the inner end then spaces 600 mm apart to meet frames.
Use spacers between the tiles to ensure no slippage also.
That Aus Standard requires floor tiles to be under vertical tiles, this also applies to hobs.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html
Thanks Oldsaltoz....of course you would use a batten...silly of me...but why 2/3 up a tile? As long as my floor is reasonably level, wouldn't I go 1 tile up, and make sure that line is level? I have decided not to grout under the bottom tile, and then spacers from there up...and will just do a polyurethane seal between floor and wall. Your thoughts?
I was referring to tiles in the shower, because the base has a fall it will not be a straight line so each tile has to be cut to fit.Originally Posted by markmccallum
You can also place a tile outside the shower to a starting line, this will mean the tiles will all line up if you plan to do full walls.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html
Gotcha....I'm using a solid shower base in a corner, so fall is not a consideration. I'm tiling all walls to around 1300, the shower to around 2100, and the floor. I'll run a string line around the whole bathroom to the bottom of the second row, batten to there, tile up using spacers, then adjust shower base tiles to that and any floor tiles that show run out. I'll then match the floor tiles to the same grout lines, as I'm using the same tiles. Sound about right?
What a fantastic site this is...great people with lots of first hand experience, who are happy to pass it on! I hope I can do my bit when I've finished this reno.
Hi
I have another question for the tilers - I had someone in to quote on tiling and they said tiling from the floor right to the ceiling is much more expensive than, say, stopping at 2100. why is this? because there's more cutting involved?
cheers
I dont understand if you have to drill a hole thr and attach a batten to each wall. What about water proofing? Obviously, a hole thr membrane will leave a hole in the shower area without water proofing.
That is because tiler usually charge at $ per sqm not $ per hour. Also, that depends on whether your walls are plumb. A 1mm difference at bottom can easily result in as much as more than 15 mm at the top in glue.
Lazer Hire a Lazer level from Kennards etc,to get your 2 row perfect, then go from there.I watched my tiler do my bathroom last year. Its easy, should have done the lot myself.
Not if you use a batten, the hole will above the waterproofing and into the timber frame, when you finish tiling, remove the batten and seal the tiny hole with Sikaflex.I dont understand if you have to drill a hole thr and attach a batten to each wall. What about water proofing? Obviously, a hole thr membrane will leave a hole in the shower area without water proofing.
Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html
Call this an educated guess but I suspect the extra is because the tiler will take longer to do the area out of reach, meaning up and down steps for each tile, then grouting off the steps as well.
Good luck.
Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html
Use a laser leveller - will get 1 constant line around the complete room - no 1 or 2 mm out of level at the end.
Batten for the 2nd tile from the bottom. Complete wall tiles (except for bottom row) and then complete floor. Saves getting crap all over floor tiles and when fitting the bottom row of wall tiles can be cut to fit perfectly in case of any change with glue etc to bottom level.
Mine was cement render walls prior to tiling - I used some concrete nails with the wooden straight edge battens - then when removed I just used some of my waterproofing compound to fill and cover the holes - gave it 2 coats for extra sleep at night over the "imperfections".
2/3 of a tile from the bottom is a good idea for working the complete bathroom, including the shower recess - personally mine was in pretty level shape and I was able to get away with about 5/6 of a tile from the bottom (also due to using large format wall tiles).
If you use larger tiles - make sure the walls are level - or you will have a corner of the tile here and there protruding a little and looks crap. If the wall is slightly out - use smaller format tiles.
Hope it helps - but most importantly - go slow and take your time. Rushing will only end up with a crap job that is going to be looking at you for the next 10-15 years.
Gotta say I actually enjoyed mine - and looking forward to doing another one.....making sure I have allowance for tiling height over the screen for the rear water inlet to the cistern ..... not much allowance for those ones....
I will give my two cents worth on this topic as I have been tiling professionaly for about a year now, and I used to be unsure of this as well when I was doing home reno's before turing it into a job.
You can do it with or without a batten (from second row up). We dont use them because it takes up time and it isnt necessary when u go pretty quick. We usually mark a line at the top starting point (after checking it will meet the floor nicely) start from the top and go straight to the ground... then its all done in one shot.
Very rarely can you run a full tile from the floor upwards, as floors are mostlt out of level, obviously the case when a in-situ shower base is involved.
You only need a laser if the layout wraps around the room maybe on all four walls, otherwise if its just 2 or 3 walls then you should be ok without. Just keep checking horizontal and vertical as yoru going.
Everything else on this thread sounds about spot-on.
You are going about it the right way, just push on however you feel comfortable and it will come up a treat.
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