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replacing my kitchen - some questions

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  1. #1
    Reno-N00b
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    Default replacing my kitchen - some questions

    Hi All

    Great forum you have here, been reading here for a few weeks and have learned lots.

    My wife and I have inherited a "renovators dream" in Townsville. The house is concrete block on a slab type construction around 30 years old, don't know the technical term, but they are reasonably common up here. My wife wants me to start with the kitchen however I am concerned as it backs onto the toilet and I think the waterproofing (if any was installed) has failed and water from the leaking toilet has come under the adjoining concrete wall and caused a collapse in one corner of the kitchen due to it being built on some kind of kickboard formwork. At some point a stupid tenant left water running for a day or 2 and flooded half the house.

    So If I install a new kitchen in the same place and configuration as the old one what steps should I take and in what order to prevent this happening again, the kitchen is mostly stuffed and we would ideally like to replace it first.

    If I get the toilet leak fixed, Can I temporarily waterproof that wall join on the toilet side until I get around to redoing the whole toilet/bathroom area? The toilet floor is tiled, but there is no splashback, just wood skirting boards and the brick walls have been covered in some kind of plywood panelling. So I seriously doubt that it is waterproof, I can strip the panelling and skirting board, but would rather not rip up tiles until I am ready to reno the bath/toilet.

    Can I or should I waterproof on the kitchen side as well or instead?

    Thanks for any advice.

  2. #2
    1K Club Member journeyman Mick's Avatar
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    Fix any water leaks first. When you fit your kitchen fit a rail, level on the wall but up off the floor. Depending on the size of the cabinets and your desired finished height the rail will be at 150 high +/-. Use plastic levelling legs on the front of the cabinets. When you clip your kickers to the legs bed them in a bead of silicone. If worse comes to worst you might just have to replace your kickers in a decade or two, but it's pretty unlikely.

    Waterprofofing on the kitchen side is not neccesary or advisable as you really want to stop any leaks on the other side of the wall. If you fix the leaks it should all be fine, even if you're wet mopping every week. Different story if there's a leaky shower recess backing onto the kitchen though, that would be a fix it first job.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  3. #3
    Reno-N00b
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    There is a leaky shower recess, however it backs onto an exterior wall, the shower is stuffed to and will be ripped out and replaced in due course. Bathroom is on other side of toilet, so its bathroom > toilet > kitchen.

    Thanks for the advice, just to clarify are you suggesting that I not use the cabinet legs at the rear but rather nail or screw a rail to the wall for the back edge of the cabinets to sit on?

  4. #4
    1K Club Member journeyman Mick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guiness812 View Post
    ...........Thanks for the advice, just to clarify are you suggesting that I not use the cabinet legs at the rear but rather nail or screw a rail to the wall for the back edge of the cabinets to sit on?
    Yes, this is what I do. It makes it quicker and easier to level the cabinets. Otherwise you need to lie on the floor and reach underneath the cabinet to screw the legs up and down to get it level.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  5. #5
    Alien in a Strange Land Honorary Bloke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guiness812 View Post
    Thanks for the advice, just to clarify are you suggesting that I not use the cabinet legs at the rear but rather nail or screw a rail to the wall for the back edge of the cabinets to sit on?
    Mick is spot on. Make sure the rail is dead level. Now your floor may be out of plumb (probably is) so just measuring up from the floor and marking won't work. Check your floor and if it's out, say, 5mm or 10mm from one end to the other, split the difference when planning your cabinet height and then adjust each cabinet unit as you place it. Hope this isn't too confusing.
    Cheers,

    Bob

    "The population of Sydney was divided into two classes, those who sold rum and those who drank it."
    --Dr George Macakness (1806)

  6. #6
    Reno-N00b
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    Makes sense, thanks for the tip guys, if you can spare a sec could you check out my other thread a couple down regarding my splashback, I basically have my kitchen plan done and all I need to do is order it, but I'm still of 2 minds what Im gonna do about a splashback.

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