No Cons.
Easy to maintain, looks flash, warm underfoot, more gentle on dropped things than tiles.
Cork is the best by far, it's very resilient and drops just bounce back into your hands. Pity it's soo uncool.
P
Ive got timber floors in the lounge and dining room.The old kitchen had lino that Im ripping up and installing a new kitchen.
Im planning to polish the floorboards in the lounge, dining and continue it into the kitchen.
any pros or cons to this?
whats your preference for kitchen floors?
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No Cons.
Easy to maintain, looks flash, warm underfoot, more gentle on dropped things than tiles.
Cork is the best by far, it's very resilient and drops just bounce back into your hands. Pity it's soo uncool.
P
Our last house had polished floorboards in the kitchen. It was fine.
I have been thinking of doing the same in my office but was a bit worried as to how the floor would stand up to the constant rolling back and forth of the office chair. Anyone got timber floor in their office?
Cheers, John
Just a thought: If you borrow money from a pessimist, do they expect to get it back?
I intend to live forever. So far, so good.
.
I agree with Darren re: cork. It's a great surface, shame about the look of it.
Only con with polished boards in the kitchen is that if they're pine, they will collect a lot of dings that can look average. The nice look of the polished timber may outweigh concerns about this though.
Hi Daren,
Have lived in houses with Jarrah boards, pine boards, tiles, slate, concrete, vinal and lino (for those that can remember it).![]()
So, I agree with Mark, BM and Scooter. No problem with timber floorboards, however a hardwood would be my preference.I intend to put Jarrah boards in my kitchen, one day. Then I can build the kitchen. Joy!!
Better on the feet than tiles I reckon and, like others have said, things get a better chance to live after falling on timber as opposed to harder surfaces.
This question has been raised before, regarding slip issues with timber. Do a forum search for more info. For me slip hazards on timber floors in a kitchen are minimal, not much differenet to some other surfaces. And really, how much running does one do in the kitchen anyway?![]()
I would also be happy to continue the floor covering in the main living areas into the kitchen. Usually this continuity looks better than a change in materials,but it depends on the layout of course.
If the kitchen timber floor is prepared and sealed professionally then you should have no problems with it from the normal wear and spillage of any kitchen.Just my opinion though, I do like timber floors.
Give us an update when the job is done Daren.
Cheers
Pops
thanks for the replies everyone
will post an update with pics when done, Pops. Might be awhile though, as Ive got to do a complete bathroom and kitchen first.
That reminds me - I had a thought of polishing the floors in the kitchen before installing the new kitchen. (The kitchen is completely gutted at the moment.)
By polishing the floors first I thought it might cut out the hassle of sanding right up against the cabinets.But the usual is to do the floors last right?
(Still havent decided to get a pro to do the floors or have a chop myself)
thoughts?
Yep. All good, but we live at the beach so there tends to be a fair amount of grit turns up underfoot, and it's easy to get scratches where the wheels are if you aren't careful.
If you buy a good quality chair, you can get soft castors made for hard floors - do that and you won't have any troubles.
Cheers,
P
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Hi Daren,
I am a patient man so am happy to wait for the update.
Well, funny you should doing the floors before the kitchen install. Why? Because that is exactly what I have been considering for a while. I reckon whether the pros do it or I do it, it has to be easier and faster. Downside is, the kitchen installers need to be a bit more careful with the floors. Sounded an OK thing to do to me.
Yes, I do believe it is usual that the kitchen is installed first, you save a bit on not sealing the timber under the cabinets too I guess.
There may be other very good reasons to do the usual, kitchen first, floors polished second, but others may need to help out here.
Pro vs DIY sanding/sealing of floor. Some friends have done it and were happy with the result, others were not. For me, (one who is basically lazy and reluctant to learn the skills on my own floor and probably stuff it up) I would go with the Pros, particularly for a large area /several rooms. But it can be done with top results DIY.
Cheers
Pops
Hi, this is my first post as I was looking for something else for myself, however I can tell you I have baltic pine floorboards in the sunroom/computer room approx 50yrs old and I had them polished with most of the house 5 years ago and they came up quite good, however with the computer chair moving (wheels) I started to get a fine cracks which looked like the laquer was peeling in my haste I decided to pull some off thinking it would just peel off (flake) however I was WRONG and it split the timber and required glueing sanding and a mini reno on the floorboard. Now I have a mat to put the chair on and I am much wiser.
Gday Barney, welcome, & thanks for chiming in.
Cheers................Sean
DEfinitely sand the floor before your cabinets go in if you can - much easier.
we (meaning me!) redid the kitchen about 10 years ago, about 4 weeks ago I got around to sanding the floor (again) and sealing it with Cabots CFP water based polyurethane, then last weekend we (ie: me) removed almost everything from the laundry and added the same finish to there.
A pic I just took:
The missus loves the finish. The Cabots CFP is great, 1/2hr and you can walk on it, 3hrs between coats - sand between coats. Cost about $95 for 4lt, enough to do the kitchen & laundry
We sanded and finished our kitchen floor first, then the buffalo who came to install the kitchen put a big ding in it where he stood the pantry cupboard on it's corner and left some nice scuffs and scratches in it, so I would say maybe sand first and finish after the cupboards, that way it's easier to repair any damage before applying the finish. Either that, or put down one coat of finish over the whole thing and then a second coat after the install.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
We put parquet through our last house including the kitchen and the deal there was:
The initial coat means that the wood is protected under the cupboards and the sink/dishwasher. That sealing is very useful if you have a water leak....
- sand and one coat on the floor
- install kitchen
- clean floor and put final coats on.
Cheers
Jeremy
When a thing's done, it's done, and if it's not done right, do it differently next time - Arthur Ransome
Just saw & read this post while searching for something else.
I'm going to continue the polished boards from the lounge room into the kitchen, & also into the hall. The kitchen & lounge are next to each other with the hall running off in line with the kitchen. I think it will look better to polish all three, as you can see from one to the other clearly from most spots depending on where you're looking from. 99.9% of the time I will see 2 of the areas simultaneously, so it will look good.
Hi Daren
We have 100+ year old Tas Oak floorboards in our kitchen sealed with one-pot estapol polyurethane. Its very comfortable, forgiving if we drop things and easy to maintain. It wears a little unevenly in doorway, in front of sink and in front of a work bench. As soon as wear starts to be visible we wash the floor thoroughly, lightly resand and apply another coat of polyurethane.
At the moment we have one-pot estapol, but if I ever get the floor back to bare wood then I'll use two-pot for the extra durability.
What I suggest that you do is:
- Clean the floor thoroughly using ammonia to remove all trace of wax and fat.
- Put a metal strait edge across the floorboards and if there is any sign of cupping or bowing then get the floor professionally sanded. You do not want to learn the skills on your highly visible kitchen.
- If the floor is flat then sand it yourself using a large random orbital sander. And sand through the grades of sandpaper from about 60 to 1,000 grit. The last grit determines the quality of finish.
- Punch all visible nails and putty holes as necessary. Resand here.
- Vacuum thoroughly at least three times, then wipe with a cloth moistened in turps to remove all sawdust.
- Apply with smooth roller one coat of polyurethane (preferably two pot), wait ten minutes then wipe off the poly with a smooth rag (old sheet). Wiping smooths the polyurethane into the poors of the timber and helps smooth the final coat.
- Dry overnight then apply another coat of polyurethane.
- Next morning sand lightly, ROS with 500 and 1,000 grit, clean thoroughly and carefully brush on final coat of polyurethane.
This should give a highly glossy floor which should be kept clean with fresh water. About every two years lightly sand and brush on another coat of polyurethane to keep it fresh.
Never use wax, silicon or other commercial polishes on the floor as you then cannot retouch the floor without removing all microscopic traces of the polish.
Cheers
Graeme
remove old kitchen ,sand entire floor ,seal floor with one coat of sealer ,install kitchen then when all trades have finished top coat floor ,remember to lay a thin peice of mdf or ply on the floor to roll the fridge over back into position