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Noggin height for gyprock.

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  1. #1
    Golden Member
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    Default Noggin height for gyprock.

    What height do you need to place the noggins.
    Does it need to be at the level of the joins for the gyprock.
    If so I would imagine this would be about 1.2 metres from floor.
    Or do you space the noggins out so some are at the join and some higher and lower.
    Thanks Guy's.

  2. #2
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Default Noggins

    I have allways found it best to keep them in line and make them 1205 mm of the floor , lift gyprock at least 5mm to this hight, allows for shrinkage, movement etc, hope this helps

  3. #3
    Retired
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    Default

    just rember max spacings for noggs are 1350mm. The noggs from a structural point of view are required to prevent buckling of studs. If you place the noggs at 1200mm in a 2700mm wall, you will need two rows.

    A 2700 wall is generally 2740mm finished height and assuming 35mm for bottom, top and ribbon plates (105mm) gives you a stud length of 2740-105 = 2635mm stud length. 2635 / 2 = 1317.5mm.


    cheers,

  4. #4
    dib
    dib is offline
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    Default

    As above. Noggins are structural. Put them right in the middle between top and bottom plates and offset every second on so that you dont have to skew nail them.

  5. #5
    Old Chippy 6K
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    Default

    Funny really - you'd have to wonder why noggins are needed at all now as the timber we use is no longer green hardwood (or pine), but kiln dried mostly, we no longer place sheet joins on the noggin line as we once did and we more often screw and glue sheets not nail them.

    Current practices and materials make noggins a bit of an anachronism (and are not generally used in steel frames and when they are for differnet reasons) although the BCA hasn't caught up with that view.

    Noggins (dwangs in NZ!?) are meant to provide resistance against bending forces from loads place on studs or joists (where we call them blocking). 'Back in the day' (as my son would say) they were used to stop and/or correct bowing and help a little with twisting, but those are mostly problems of variable timber quality and inconsistent milling (my Dad used to buy the framing timber for a house (or houses) and run them through a thicknesser - it was not uncommon for a single large delivery to be sourced from several mills with slight variations in dimensions). On 10ft or 12 ft walls a double row was common.

    Noggins work to brace against bending under load onto vertical studs, but once sheeting is attached securely (and especially now with gluing too) that becomes unecessary. They provide no shear support and offer no protection against racking so diagonal braces are still needed. With well attached sheeting noggins are not needed - just diagonal braces. North American practice (in cool climate areas) has for many, many years been to use full plywood sheeting on external walls - making noggins unnecessary, and so long as the corner sheets wer nailed properly no diagonal bracing was needed either.
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

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