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Sound advice needed (acoustic plaster, lining boards and 120 years of changes)

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  1. #1
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    Default Sound advice needed (acoustic plaster, lining boards and 120 years of changes)

    Hi all...
    Been a while since i posted here and have a question for the knowledgeable folk within.
    I'm about to gut and re-plaster the front bedroom of our late 1800s weatherboard home. The front bedroom is less than 10-15m from the Princes Highway which provides quite a significant amount of noise from both vehicles and pedestrians at all hours. We've grown used to the noise but figure that since we're pulling the place apart we'd look into doing what we can to lessen the noise further.

    At the moment the walls are weatherboard on the outside with baltic pine lining boards on the inside. At some stage hessian and wallpaper have been added on top of that, and on top of that is a really sexy addition of 5mm (ish) masonite.

    My wonderings are what would be the best options for cutting back on noise in this instance?

    A couple of options I've thought of:
    -Remove all existing internal layers, insulate the walls and line with acoustic plasterboard (heard of it, not sure what it is though!)
    -Leave the lining boards and plaster over them (with either normal of acoustic plasterboard)
    -Remove everything, insulate the walls, put the lining boards back and plasterboard over the top.....

    All thoughts appreciated. We're also looking at having the old window rebuilt to include double glazing - I've been amazed at the difference that along can make in applications like ours.

    Regards,
    Japes.

  2. #2
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    I'd go for option 2. Remove existing, add sound insulation (not thermal), re-sheet in new acoustic plasterboard. Double glazing is a good idea. A lot of people don't realize how much sound penetrates through a standard window.

  3. #3
    1K Club Member Pulse's Avatar
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    I'd strip back to studs. Make sure you read this. Also check Rod's site. He explains why is might be cheaper to use extra layers of the plain board rather than the soundcheck products. The flanking sound such as floors, windows, ceilings is really where the sound can sneak in. Little details like sealing the gap under the skirts and using gaskets around the doors will make a big difference.
    Cheers
    Pulse

  4. #4
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    thanks guys. Particularly liked the Gyprock directions. Gives me a good idea of how to get the best solution. I've used Rod's site extensively in the past when learning the basics of throwing boards up... incredibly informative.

  5. #5
    3K Club Member johnc's Avatar
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    I'm in the strip back and double glaze camp as well. However all that will be wasted if you don't attend to those gaps around doors, windows, ceiling and floors. Sounds is like water it doesn't need much of a space to get through.

  6. #6
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    G'day John. it seems to be a tricky one. I can get the windows done, and the walls - but not sure how to make it worthwhile when i know for sure some sound will find the gap around the sash a nice point of entry. Changing the window with any obvious modification is off the cards with a heritage listing so i'm open to suggestions there as well... and it'd be good if we could still open the window.

  7. #7
    3K Club Member johnc's Avatar
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    Old style sash windows are always going to be problematic when it comes to draft and noise. Drapes help, as does secondary glazing in the form of an internal frame and glazing installed behind the sash window. I have no idea what sort of seals are available.

  8. #8
    1K Club Member Pulse's Avatar
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    The little purple pub turned into a hotel in Greta is 5m from the New England Hwy, they used a layer of perspex screwed the the double glazed hung window frame, incredible noise reduction for the price, you can see the B-doubles go past but can't hear a thing... The windows are sealed closed BTW

    Cheers
    Pulse

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