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Top hat batten: butt vs. lap

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  1. #1
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    Default Top hat batten: butt vs. lap

    Hi all,

    I'm about to start framing out my shed as part of a shed-to-office conversion, which includes plastering the ceiling. My shed uses 64mm top hat battens to secure the roof panels, mounted on top of c-beams (as shown below). As you can see from the red arrow in the image below, the point where the angled c-beam meets the vertical c-beam doesn't have a top hat batten, which is something I'd like to correct.

    top-hat.jpg

    The existing top hats run the full span of the shed, around 6.8m. I can't install a 6.8m top hat without removing the roof panels, which is something I'd really rather avoid. As such, I'm thinking of getting two top hat lengths, each of which spanning half the total span (~3.4m each). My question is whether I can simply butt the two sections together on the centre angled c-beam (at the location of the red arrow), or whether I have to lap one section over the top of the other?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    I think you'll find the ends of top hat are cut at 45 so you can butt and get a screw in each side.
    And.....your point is.....what exactly?

  3. #3
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    Oh right! That would make perfect sense actually. Thanks for clarifying, I will look to confirm this with my supplier. Thanks!

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    My shed and all the other I have seen have been over lapped.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    My shed and all the other I have seen have been over lapped.
    That's what the documentation states for the top hats (as part of their span tables etc.). I don't have an issue with lapping, I just figured a butt joint would be cleaner, as you don't have the small change in height where the lap occurs.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jars121 View Post
    I just figured a butt joint would be cleaner, as you don't have the small change in height where the lap occurs.
    The small change in height makes zero difference as we are talking about a shed roof not a precision bit of dove tail carpentry!!
    Even if you got up on the shed roof to run your eye over it , you wouldn't see the difference let alone on the ground. All my shed overlap.

    Also check if you need an additional top hat as I think you may find its built to spec (ie: as it should) with the "C" section side beam essentially the "top hat" and therefore not required.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart1080 View Post
    The small change in height makes zero difference as we are talking about a shed roof not a precision bit of dove tail carpentry!!
    Even if you got up on the shed roof to run your eye over it , you wouldn't see the difference let alone on the ground. All my shed overlap.

    Also check if you need an additional top hat as I think you may find its built to spec (ie: as it should) with the "C" section side beam essentially the "top hat" and therefore not required.
    Adding another top hat would make it easier to batten it up for the gyprock ceiling.
    Never argue with idiots, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


  8. #8
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    Just an idle thought here, one I had when I did the foilboard on my shed roof.
    It doesn't need to be the same depth as the framing tophat.
    Go the next size down so it can slide in more easily and don't worry too much about the sag.
    Or don't use plaster either; use Foilboard for the light weight and the reflective qualities that help with lighting
    "A big boy did it and ran away"

    Legal disclaimer denying responsibility to be inserted here.

  9. #9
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    How do you plan to fix the top hat without much access from above?

  10. #10
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    Personally would install new battens on the underside of c sections, much cleaner for sheeting

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    Quote Originally Posted by cherub View Post
    Personally would install new battens on the underside of c sections, much cleaner for sheeting
    You can't span battens over 3.4 metres .
    Better off running battens at 90 degrees to top hats at recommended spacing.
    Never argue with idiots, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


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    Quote Originally Posted by r3nov8or View Post
    How do you plan to fix the top hat without much access from above?
    Would have to remove or curl back roof sheets (and flashing?) at each end and in the middle C section and screw down from above. The roof sheets will have to be screwed to the top hats anyway, so getting up on the roof is inevitable.
    Maybe it would be best to remove all the sheets and add some Sisalation or roof blanket if it's going to be Gyprocked?
    Never argue with idiots, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitey66 View Post
    Would have to remove or curl back roof sheets (and flashing?) at each end and in the middle C section and screw down from above. ...
    Yep, but OP states they'd rather avoid lifting sheets

  14. #14
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    Run the new top hat at 90 degrees to existing top hat on the underside and sheet between the existing framing..
    And.....your point is.....what exactly?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitey66 View Post
    You can't span battens over 3.4 metres .
    Better off running battens at 90 degrees to top hats at recommended spacing.
    Not recommending battens at 3m centers, would install extra C's as required.
    Without knowing details of this structure its pretty good guess that ceiling wasn't a factor in original design.
    Running battens at 90 deg probably not going to work without extra supports either.

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