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attaching villaboard to a cavity wall slider? 600 x 600 x 12 tiles on top?

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  1. #1
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    Default attaching villaboard to a cavity wall slider? 600 x 600 x 12 tiles on top?

    As above what is the best way to attach a sheet of villaboard to one side of a cavity wall slider? I will tile with 600 x 600 x 12 tiles so it must be rock solid. I have nailed every 150-200 on the timber stud wall but this is very different due to lack of nails?? If I glue it and temp screw it until dry what glue? Sikaflex? Which one?

    Thanks guys )

  2. #2
    3K Club Member johnc's Avatar
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    Don't glue, just screw, you are not meant to glue behind a tiled area so I would keep that in mind.

  3. #3
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    I hope you are using a good quality steel framed slider ? I just fix villa to a steel framed door using button head sheet metal screws. A countersunk screw weakens the sheet too much IMHO. The tile glue will easily sail over the top of the button heads.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ringtail View Post
    I hope you are using a good quality steel framed slider ? I just fix villa to a steel framed door using button head sheet metal screws. A countersunk screw weakens the sheet too much IMHO. The tile glue will easily sail over the top of the button heads.
    Its a timber framed cavity? Currently not sheeted on both sides....Is this a problem? Its a high quality one I think..President type from memory..What the carpenters put in.

  5. #5
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    If it's timber just make sure it's bloody good quality. Most of the timber I've seen are pathetic. The corinthian metal ones are the go

  6. #6
    Hammer Head - 1K Club Member
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    Ring tail how do they do villa in commerical in metal stud it's all content sunk and set over I am sure Jh have throught through the holding capacity of sheets if countersinking

  7. #7
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    For sure Gaza but do the test yourself. Countersink a screw flush and try and pull the sheet off the stud. Then use a button head screw and try and pull the sheet off. An over driven screw may as well not be there. I do it my way and it works for me and gives me 150% confidence that the sheet and x kg of tiles are going to stay put.

  8. #8
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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  9. #9
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    No problems encountered yet countersinking & screwing, bring centres to 150 to 200, if your still worried add another timber between existing battens on the cavity sliding door unit. cheers.
    Lashings will continue until morale improves.

  10. #10
    Hammer Head - 1K Club Member
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    its all good screwing until some dill uses 40mm long screws and the doors want slide in, and you have to snap screws off inside cavity units.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodchip View Post
    No problems encountered yet countersinking & screwing, bring centres to 150 to 200, if your still worried add another timber between existing battens on the cavity sliding door unit. cheers.
    With screwing should I use something like a chipboard screw? My thinking is these have a bigger thread and should offer more holding power especially in sofetr timber like treated pine which I think the door frame is made of......

    Given its not sheeted I can always grind off any protruding heads. I do have plaster screws also.....So no glue and screw?

  12. #12
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    Just got off the phone to the james hardie tech guy: he said I cant use villaboard given the timber that makes up the cavity wall slider is only 12mm thick. I will use wet area plasterboard with stud adhesive and screws. He said do not glue and screw when tiling as the glue and screw along with the tile adhesive will not allow any movement and be too brittle....

    You learn something everyday I guess ) Cheers guys

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