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Is this good quality bricklaying?

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  1. #1
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    Default Is this good quality bricklaying?

    Hi. I have a brickie doing the brickwork for an extension at my place. It a cavity wall, built on a drop edge beam concrete slab. Single story, about 3.5m at highest point. He is a young guy, and I think might be an apprentice. I am not sure if the work he is doing is good. From the outside it looks OK, but from the back there is not lots of mortar on the bricks.
    Should there be mortar between all joints on the back of the bricks? Surely this will make the wall much stronger? Would be great if someone can let me know if this look acceptable, or if I should ask him to put more mortar on bricks for remainder of wall. Also, if there should be more mortar on back of bricks, will it improve strength of wall by filling cavities between bricks (on back of wall) on existing wall with mortal.

    He also doesn't use lime for mortal. Is this important?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails brick1.jpg   brick2.jpg   brick3.jpg   brick4.jpg  

  2. #2
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    Mate I aint no bricky, but that looks quiet ordinary to me.

  3. #3
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    I'd be more concerned about the missing sisalation.

    tools

  4. #4
    China
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    It is a cavity dosent have to look nice, plus imagine who difficult it would be trying to clean it all up with wall framing in your way, have a look at some other buildings in prgress and you will see that it is all quite normal

  5. #5
    Owner Builder
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    I think most of them don't use lime in their mortar

  6. #6
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    I was referring to the sags in individual bricks, variations in end gaps and the lack of mortar. Just because its hidden doesnt make it right. " It will hide - dont worry about it " is said all too often on sites.

  7. #7
    1K Club Member jago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djhosken View Post
    From the outside it looks OK, but from the back there is not lots of mortar on the bricks.
    Any pictures of the the frontside is it a facebrick or will it be rendered?

    Quote Originally Posted by djhosken View Post
    Should there be mortar between all joints on the back of the bricks?
    To BCA yes, but reality is no, the aim (apart from the obvoius of laying straight and level ) when laying a brick is not to have lots of mortar coming out the back and falling in to you cavity or your DPC/ flashings as this will allow water ingress.The building will be inspected at frame stage and they will check the bricks then.


    Quote Originally Posted by djhosken View Post
    Surely this will make the wall much stronger? Would be great if someone can let me know if this look acceptable, or if I should ask him to put more mortar on bricks for remainder of wall. Also, if there should be more mortar on back of bricks, will it improve strength of wall by filling cavities between bricks (on back of wall) on existing wall with mortal.
    I'm not an engineer or brickie but I asked my FIL when we laid over 10,000 (double brick) a very similar question - he said bugger all, hes a brickie with 40+ years experience, the joining strenth comes from the extruded holes in the brick joining mortar to the next extruded hole, if the brick had a frog (oblong impression on the top side) in it then a full bed would have been the go.

    Quote Originally Posted by djhosken View Post
    He also doesn't use lime for mortal. Is this important?
    No ...lime improves the workability of the mix and makes it more sticky but depending on the type of sand he is using he may have added fire clay and or a product like liquid marbles. Personally I think lime is misunderstood as is Portland cement it's very strong.

    I would be more concerened about by the lack of a vapour barrier as Tools said.

    Ringtail - The difference in some of the perps comes from the brick being cut with a trowel and splitting unevenly which is quiet normal as long as the perps on the face are even.

    How comes the brickies have left this one alone?

  8. #8
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    The bed & perp joints should be full of mortar & when the brick is laid to line a little mortar should bulge from the joints, which every course should be struck off with a trowel, the excess falling to the dpc which should be washed out at the end of the day through cleanouts. The brickwork shown might have problems reliably holding the veneer ties to the timber frame.
    regards inter

  9. #9
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    What he said

  10. #10
    Apprentice (new member) Never Enough's Avatar
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    Its too hard to tell from the back as its not the finished face of the brick. Have you got any pics of the other side?

    As tools mentioned where is the sisalation wrap?

  11. #11
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    My limited understanding of brickwork is that it should look the same on both sides if done correctly - is that wrong, or am I been picky

  12. #12
    1K Club Member jago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ringtail View Post
    My limited understanding of brickwork is that it should look the same on both sides if done correctly - is that wrong, or am I been picky
    FIL reckons you're being picky as the face is what its about and the strength differential is minimal not having a full bed.

  13. #13
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    Ive decided that I'm right (lol). I dont think its acceptable to have a good side and a @@@@ side for anything - except dunny paper. Bwahahahahahahaha.

  14. #14
    Senior Member ScroozAdmin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jago View Post
    FIL reckons you're being picky as the face is what its about and the strength differential is minimal not having a full bed.

    bricks obviously aren't perfectly rectangular so getting the face side flat and evenly spaced can lead to the internal side looking pretty uneven (dependant on the brick quality). For a non structural single storey brick veneer this is perfectly fine and pretty typical, assuming it looks good on the other side of course.
    www.scrooz.com.au

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