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  1. #1
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    Default concrete sealer

    Hi all.

    I'm considering concrete sealer for the bathroom floor. It's freshly laid and has been power floated for a harder wearing surface and nice burnished effect. It also has xypex admix for waterproofing. As far as I know, this should be fine as is but maybe I should consider a concrete sealer as well. What do you think? Should I or not and if so (there are so many types!) what would be recommended in this case. Note: ease of use (not sprayed) and re-application, if required, is important too.

    Thanks so much, Su.

  2. #2
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    Default concrete sealer

    Go for clear epoxy that will last forever

    You also need to consider how slip the finish is


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  3. #3
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    hat is your plan for sealing the wall to floor joint?

    Good luck and fair winds.
    Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
    http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsaltoz View Post
    hat is your plan for sealing the wall to floor joint?

    Good luck and fair winds.
    Sikaflex between villaboard and floor with a reasonable sized gap so I can get a lot of it in there, nice and thick. Would it work if I taped and waterproofed the concrete to sheet joint over that with about 10mm overlap onto the concrete so the tile will cover the tape and waterproofing? Then the tiles are on, another round of sikaflex, again with a good thick application.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza View Post
    Go for clear epoxy that will last forever

    Highlighted in red. Can't do that as the surface is finished and not to be messed with.

    3.7
    epoxy Sealers

    These are most commonly used for internal
    applications (due to lack of UV resistance) and
    are generally the most abrasion resistant, durable
    and hard-wearing sealers available. They offer
    enhanced protection against staining. Typically,
    epoxy sealers provide a high gloss to surfaces
    and can be tinted readily. They may take longer to
    harden than acrylic sealers due to the chemical
    reactions involved, in some cases exceeding
    18hours dependent on ambient conditions. Epoxy

    sealers are difficult to reapply and require some

    surface preparation to facilitate mechanical
    bond of the subsequent layer. Typical uses are in

    commercial and industrial buildings, food outlets

    and hospitals. They are generally not used on
    textured surfaces since surface preparation for
    subsequent coats is difficult.


    You also need to consider how slip the finish is


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    There seem to be so many types out there and all for different applications so I'm finding it difficult to work out the right one. In all honesty, I'm not sure I need it considering the admix in the concrete is supposed to be a permanent waterproofing. I think it would be an added extra that would be of benefit to me if it's simple. So....

    Must be ok for a reasonably non porous slab. The power float hardens the surface although he didn't get into all the edges and corners that well.

    Must be for a wet area. Water repellency is the primary goal.

    Must be slip resistant

    Must not need mechanical abrasion prep as the surface is a finished surface.

    Ideally, not a spray on method as I would prefer to do it myself rather than get a guy in.

    Ideally, slab can be green so I can get it on before fitting out the bathroom.

    Ideally, simple to re-apply when required.

    Does not have to be the longest lasting surface treatment in the world. I prefer simple application methods over this.





  6. #6
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    Default concrete sealer

    I looked into this a few months ago and found a supplier,

    I would at a very least coat the shower


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  7. #7
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    Default concrete sealer

    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Sikaflex between villaboard and floor with a reasonable sized gap so I can get a lot of it in there, nice and thick. Would it work if I taped and waterproofed the concrete to sheet joint over that with about 10mm overlap onto the concrete so the tile will cover the tape and waterproofing? Then the tiles are on, another round of sikaflex, again with a good thick application.

    Thinking about this an idea I have is to recess an angle into face of studs only 1.5mm alloy then sheet comes down on this the angle is sika to slab then after tilling use a pool Silcone and seal gap between bottom of tiles and slab

    I wouldn't be happy with villa just meeting slab with a mastic joint as there is chance that mastic. May not have perfect bond


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Sikaflex between villaboard and floor with a reasonable sized gap so I can get a lot of it in there, nice and thick. Would it work if I taped and waterproofed the concrete to sheet joint over that with about 10mm overlap onto the concrete so the tile will cover the tape and waterproofing? Then the tiles are on, another round of sikaflex, again with a good thick application.
    It sounds like you plan the coat the floor and run a tile around the wall to floor joint, so why not use an approved waterproofing flashing on the wall to floor joint and the wall section will covered by the tile and the floor area covered by the floor coating.

    What treatment do you plan for the shower?

    Good luck and fair winds.
    Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
    http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza View Post
    I looked into this a few months ago and found a supplier,

    I would at a very least coat the shower


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    Who is the supplier Gaza and what type of product?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza View Post
    Thinking about this an idea I have is to recess an angle into face of studs only 1.5mm alloy then sheet comes down on this the angle is sika to slab then after tilling use a pool Silcone and seal gap between bottom of tiles and slab

    I wouldn't be happy with villa just meeting slab with a mastic joint as there is chance that mastic. May not have perfect bond


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I think this idea is much better than tape on villaboard to floor join and I should still be able to hide the angle behind approx 20mm - 6mm villaboard, 10mm tile, 4mm adhesive. What sort of angle would be thin enough to not have to recess it as it not just studs but bottom plate too?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsaltoz View Post
    It sounds like you plan the coat the floor and run a tile around the wall to floor joint, so why not use an approved waterproofing flashing on the wall to floor joint and the wall section will covered by the tile and the floor area covered by the floor coating.

    What treatment do you plan for the shower?

    Good luck and fair winds.
    Same as Gaza's idea above. Can't have the flashing protrude more than 20mm as per post above. The floor sealer would be clear as the current surface is the finished surface.

    Sealer for the whole floor, including shower area. Waterproofing under the shower grate, down into the puddle flange which is set down into the concrete 50mm with a concrete formed diameter between grate and puddle flange. Should be able to remove the grate and waterproof then sikaflex it back in place. Silicone and channel to seal shower screen to floor and wall.

  11. #11
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    Default concrete sealer

    You could get a roof flashing company yo fold you out of 0.55 mm stainless and angle I would do say 50mm high back leg under sheet and say 15mm front, 6mm villa, 10mm tile, then silicone seal to front

    If you have trouble getting this stuff fold I could get it done and express post to you as you not exactly near water where you use stainless for roofing


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  12. #12
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    I've gone for some aluminium angle. Local hardware orders in stuff folded as you want it, so could do that pretty easily but hope that 20x20mm aluminium will be ok. Or I can get wider stuff and cut down one side. Given the fall to waste and a good thick application of sikaflex, I would have thought 20mm should be enough considering the sikaflex would have to momentously fail for water to get past that to the studs.

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