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A couple of concreteing questions

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  1. #1
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    Default A couple of concreteing questions

    Not a complete novice as I have done a fair bit of concreting in the past but it has all been ready mix or real small jobs mixed by hand. I'm about to tackle a large project in bite sized chunks over an extended period of time as money and time permits. For this I have borrowed on a long term basis (he knows where it is if he needs it) a 2.2 cft mixer.

    First job is to concrete a path down the side of the house down a 7* slope broken by a step every 1.5 meters, 4 sections in all with a width of 1.7 to 2.4 so about 3 to 4 mixer loads each. Step is a 200mm sleeper which the concrete will reduce to 175 (slab is 75-100 thick)

    First question - will I have problems with the concrete running down hill or just make the mix 'stiff'?

    2nd question - should I screed between mixer loads or mix and pour the lot then screed or get a slave to mix while I screed?



    David L
    "A dedicated amateur will always do a better job than a slap dash professional"

  2. #2
    1K Club Member Pulse's Avatar
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    I'd get a concrete truck in. By the time you price the aggregate, cement and sand, you are no better off. By the time you are buggered from mixing the concrete you don't have the energy to screed.

    The concrete won't run downhill as normally concrete doesn't flow once placed.
    Cheers
    Pulse

  3. #3
    Novice Drboost's Avatar
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    Get the mix at 70 slump then you can always add water if you think it's gonna be too tough to work it and you're not gonna lose it down the slope.

  4. #4
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    G'day Wombat2,

    Have you considered the drainage, using sleepers as steps is fine but sitting them deeper than the path with more cement along the front will trap moisture and may shorten their useful life.

    However cutting them down a bit and adding a slight angle to the bottom and sitting them 'on' the mix will provide a drainage slop on the underside.

    Also think about what way the water from rain storms will run or pool.

    Being small batches you could get it in 10mm and do a nice exposed aggregate path, better grip and neat finish.

    At a slump rate of 70 will will have no problems at all, in fact it might be hard work even pushing it downhill.

    Good luck.
    Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
    http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the input - all the steps are well and truely in place as they were installed thinking road base was going to be used but SWMBO changed her mind. Each step has full hight by 50mm of drainage gravel behind linked to an ag drain down the side of the run - hopefully that will keep the dampness down.

    Hard getting a truck in to the spot and barrowing it all the way would be harder on the back than using a mixer. I've costed the material at $96 - doubt if I'd get a meter of concrete delivered for under $100.

    Besides I can spread the job over a couple of weekends in stages
    David L
    "A dedicated amateur will always do a better job than a slap dash professional"

  6. #6
    Old Chippy 6K
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    For a path like this set up in sections and do alternate sections one at a time. For example, half of each 1.5m step length divide by halfway across too. So mix and pour, screed off roughly while still wet, then while that is going off enough to do a final finish off mix and pour the next one - or just do one fully then the next - whatever suits you. Set them all up so you do one set of segments one weekend then the other the next.The first pours are done then the cross piece timber formwork is removed and the subsequent ones are done. Good bit of info on this in the Library in the PDF booklet - http://www.renovateforum.com/f221/re...06/#post854912.
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

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