Garage floor coating Hey Guys,
Looking at coating our ~ 45m2 garage (6m x 7.3m).
The floor is 20 years old, hasn't been coated with anything previously.
Typical of any garage floor, it has a few oil marks, cracks etc. So I know that it needs a good degrease/crack repair irrespective of what I decide to coat it with.
I have a few general questions (and I'm sure I'll have more); I haven't been able to find any answers on this forum already.
I'll ask a few questions now and save my other questions for later in this thread so that I don't ask too many questions at once.)
I haven't done any garage floor coating before so I don't have any experience at this particular job.
I started looking at the 2.5 garage Rust-Oleum Rock Solid product that is sold at Bunnings. This looks ok, but I'm not sure whether this would be quite enough for my job even though the manufacturer's coverage suggests it would be. Any thoughts on that? I know you can't spread this stuff thin or the end result will be patchy (no different to painting a wall I suppose, you want to get the roller well coated etc).
What are people's opinions on top coating the Rock Solid product? Is a clear coat over the top really a must (I know the manufacturer doesn't say it's a must)? They don't sell a 2.5 clear kit, only a single garage kit, so I'd have to buy 3 single garage kits (expensive!).
Can I do the colour coat/colour flakes with the RockSolid product, and then top coat with something else? Can I top coat with a clear polyurethane to also give UV protection so I can paint right up to where the concrete garage floor meets the driveway (i.e. the part outside the garage door that will be exposed to sunlight)?
If I can put a polyurethane over the top, what can I use that will be compatible with the epoxy (i.e. won't delaminate)? I can't use a water based polyurethane right?
I believe the paint flecks straight on the colour coat will give some grip. If I understand correctly, a clear top coat over the flakes will result in a slippery surface, so I may be best added an additive to the top coat?
Final question for now - it's important that I understand how I will maintain the surface in years to come. I don't want to have to have the whole lot grinded back to square 1. If I understand correctly, if I have an epoxy based topcoat, I can just scuff this up, clean it to remove any dust etc, then put a clear coat epoxy back over the top to maintain it. Without a top coat, I'd be scuffing up the paint chips as well?? If I use a polyurethane top coat, can I just scuff this up before putting more polyurethane top coat down, or do I need to somehow strip all the polyurethane from the epoxy?
Cheers.
You can't put any old clear coat down, these will lift with the heat from the tyres when parked on, you need to use a specific product for garage floors.
Just used the jet dry on my own garage it looks fine, went for a darker colour, you need to degrease and etch before putting anything onto the concrete.
Product Detail
They make a water and oil based, only the oil based is recommended for garage floor use.
Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir
I've been researching this for quite a while and I think i'll be using this https://www.masters.com.au/product/9...anite-grey-10l
It's supposed to be really good with tyres and is slip resistant which will be good because I have a 2 post hoist in my shed.
Just requires a real good clean and acid etch, then 2 good coats.
My slab (10.5m x 7.7m) is only about 4 years old and has no cracks at all or major stains so my prep should be relatively easy.
Haymes make a product called "Ultimate"2 pack epoxy,it can be made into hundreds of colours,can be overcoated with 2 pack poly to make it uv stable if needed.
It offers a more flexible solution compared to the "Barn" brands....And it is made here.
Checkout youtube,Haymes Seamless Flooring.
Regards,
Blocker.
Hi Metrix,Originally Posted by METRIX
Thanks for the link, I will check this out. Looks like they make a "Heavy Duty" and a "Garage Floor"? I found some comments from people regarding this not working out too well on the garage floor - perhaps they used the wrong one? Did you top coat this? I wonder if it would be possible to throw some paint flakes into the wet paint to add a bit of "prettiness/extra grip"? Thoughts?
Thanks, I'll check this out. Seems similar to the Berger product at a quick glance.
I'm guessing that the Epoxy products are superior in terms of durability though? There has to be a reason why they are more expensive I guess.
Checking this out also, have emailed my local paint shop as they will probably have it.
Is this ok for DIYers?
Very easy to use ,water washup and low VOC.Also much longer lasting than any conventional paving paint.
Regards,
Blocker.
I've used these guys for several jobs.
Proflek Coatings – Brisbane Seamless Epoxy Flooring - Proflek Coatings
Cheers mate.
Looking on the Haymes website, there is the Ultimate Epoxy and there is also a seamless flooring product as well. I'm guessing Ultimate Epoxy is the best one for DIY's being water based, low VOC etc? Would that be correct?
I presume Haymes will sell paint flakes as well?
How much does this stuff typically cost, say for the 15L kit?
Cheers.
Cheers. Am in the process of getting quotes also.
Gee there are some differing opinions; I spoke to a guy over the phone who basically said that diamond grinding is the way to go when preparing the floor for epoxy coating, he said "good luck" to anybody that just acid etches.
Any thoughts on this?
Seems to me that grinding would potentially be overkill for a floor that is in good condition anyway? You only really need to grind if there is excess latinence or an old coating that needs to come up first do you not? The same guy also told me that if there is any moisture present in the concrete Epoxy coating is out of the question - what is the point of the Epoxy moisture stop/primer products then? Aren't these suppose to address this issue?
Ultimate epoxy comes in 4lt or 20lt kit sizes..a couple of 4lt cans would be enough if only using coloured epoxy (around $150 a 4lt)..if you want Seamless there are three products involved at around $17 sqm,depending on topcoat being epoxy or poly.
I would suggest talking to a local Haymes Stockist for more detailed advice.
Regards,
Blocker.
Cheers Blocker. I'm not quite sure I understand what Seamless means, provided you keep a wet edge while putting down the Ultimate epoxy I would think it would be seamless (i.e. no joins) anyway. I'm probably misunderstanding something.
Sorry for the confusion.."seamless" is a description of the 3 part coating involving base colour,coloured chips and clear top coats.This creates a finish that looks "seamless"...the Haymes DIY video shows a great example of this product.Cheers Blocker. I'm not quite sure I understand what Seamless means, provided you keep a wet edge while putting down the Ultimate epoxy I would think it would be seamless (i.e. no joins) anyway. I'm probably misunderstanding something.
Regards,
Blocker.
Cheers. So the seamless pack listed on their website includes all 3 things?
what are your thoughts with regards to acid etching and grinding?
the details for the Ultimate epoxy indicate it is self priming.
If I use small paint flakes, I can get away without clear coating?
Hey Guys,
Question - if I'm going to put down a colour, then flakes, then clear coat, does it really matter what the colour component is?
i.e. why use the more expensive 2 pack colour epoxy - why not just use a cheaper paving paint for the base colour?
The "toughness" would be via the clear coats over the top would it not? So why does the base colour matter?
Perhaps the adhesion between the concrete and the top coat would be compromised by the 'cheap' paving paint.
Why bother spending money on the top coats if you are applying it over an inferior undercoat.
Sounds like you don't want to spend the required dollars on the solution. Maybe just go with cheap paving paint until you have the funds to grind it off and do the complete epoxy job.
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
I always try to use all of the correct components of a system no matter what the product, saves the manufacturers blaming other products if you have issues.
The clear coats may react in a bad way to paving paint, or maybe won't stick to it properly. It could even cause issues with the flakes, not worth the risk imho.
I looked at this system for my floor and it was going to cost about $1500 - $1700 compared to about $300 for the "Bondall Garage And Factory Floor Protector" which I have heard very good things about.
Another thing I considered was my shed is a workshop where I weld, grind and might drop or drag sharp metal objects across the floor (not on purpose, but it happens).
Regardless of the finish, the floor will be marked doing this and I figure the Bondall will look like new again with a quick and easy touch up.
If I was just doing a garage to store cars and my motorbikes I would probably go the other way,and even then it would be for the look only.
Cheers Whitey66, good explanation. The cost is not a problem, just trying to understand the system as a whole.
Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir
It would look pretty cool if it actually does have a good marbleized finish.
20 x stronger than epoxy?
That's a pretty big call if they can't back it up.
I can see a few possible issues straight up -
Super High Gloss Finish - how slippery will this be when wet?
UV resistant - No - This could be an issue if sunlight shines in and fades the finish.
Waterproof - No - Is this a mistake on the bunnings site? surely it would be waterproof?
I was a bit turned off the rustoleum product due to the burst bags, all or nothing. I'm leaning towards.the Haymes product as I can mix it up in batches as required. Cheers all the same Metrix.
Question - seems like most concrete grind and then patch repair any cracks. Is it ok to repair cracks first, then grind? It makes more sense to me to repair cracks first such that any slight overfill is smooth off with the grinder???
Grinding may show up other defects, depending on your patching product you may find the grinding process pulls out some of the filler. Fill beforehand and be prepared to touch up later I guess.
The companies that sell these products should do a sample kit big enough to do a 1m square (or smaller) area so you can try it out by giving it time to fully cure then put it through the torture test.
You would also know how easy or hard it is to apply and exactly what quality of finish you will actually get on your particular floor, and not some floor off a glossy advertising pamphlet that has probably been Photoshopped.
I used the bondcrete/bondall stuff on my garage floor about a year ago however the concrete was relatively new. About 3 months old. etched,cleaned, dried then rolled the Boncrete garage and factory coating on. It's been great so far. Very tough as it's had cabinets and boxes dragged over it. I used it because that was what we have had on our factory floor for the past 11 years and that gets driven on by cars, vans and fork lifts. Copted alot of abuse over the years.
Just another alternative for you.
https://www.masters.com.au/product/9...anite-grey-10l
We had ours done professionally in 2006. New floor, ground flat and any cracks filled, two coats of epoxy.
The floor was like glass. Really! We were told to not walk on it for 2 days then we could walk around in our socks while it cured. It was very easy to slip over on. In 10 years it has taken a bit of a beating but still looks great, just not quite so shiny. There is some minor surface damage from dropping tools etc. Would do it again, but would put a step at the garage door to reduce leaf litter being blown in. The spiders seem to love it in there...
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
Hi Guys,
All done!
I filled the cracks in the floor with Deks 2 part epoxy putty, followed by a concrete grind (hired a walk behind grinder and used a small angle grinder with a DTA turbo disk for the corners). I used a heavy duty degreaser, but I probably didn't need to do that step as the floor wasn't that bad to begin with. I did it anyway for peace of mind.
I then put on 2 coats of Haymes Ultimate Epoxy (Satin finish), flaking the second coat with Duron flakes (4 hours between coats).
I let this dry out overnight, then put on 2 coats of Haymes Ultimate Polyurethane (Satin) (4 hours between coats).
Now just giving it a good week before we put the cars back in the garage!
Cheers!
Sounds good! Can you show us a photo?
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
Sure
Not the best photo in the world, bit blurry, crappy phone camera.
Just took a photo in one corner, too much glare.
Will try to take better photos with the SLR when I get time.
I like it, good job.
Now I'll have to add that to my to do list !
Looks good!
4 kids?
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
Cheers guys.Looks good!
4 kids?
Nah, 3 kids, wife has 2 bikes.
Aha. Then you must have 2 cars then! Fair's fair!Cheers guys.
Nah, 3 kids, wife has 2 bikes.
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
Looks good.Cheers guys.
Nah, 3 kids, wife has 2 bikes.
You can never have enough bikes.
tinted concrete sealer. just put some non slip in it forthe garage or it will be slippery as @@@@ with a smooth finish
how slippery is the surface if its wet??
also for a new concrete slab what sort of time do I need to let it cure before putting any coating on it?
Hi wozzzzzza,
Not slippery at all when wet - we used a satin finish (which gives plenty of gloss) - and the XL duron flakes can still be felt through the coating - the flakes provide texture.
I'm pretty sure for new concrete it needs a month (28 days??). The Haymes water based epoxy can be put down on damp concrete though - but I'm not sure if this is the same as "green" concrete. Haymes are very helpful if you email/call them.
Cheers.
ok cool, I will goto my local store, I have an account with them.
thanks.
Anyone used the flake finish outside? I have an undercover car port with a wrap around path that leads to the shed and blind side. I have been doing some reading/youtubing and it seems like it is not meant for outside, alas rules are made to be broken. Just curious to know if anyone has done something like this before and what their cost wper square meter regarding the project?
I can't see any reason why not myself, provided it is properly sealed with polyurethane, and this coating is maintained over time. Perhaps give Duron a call (flake manufacturer).
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