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Driveway Fence post... repair or replace

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  1. #1
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Default Driveway Fence post... repair or replace

    We've decided to sell in 1 or 2 years.
    And as always the good lady doesn't want to spend any money.
    Especially if I can do it my self.

    On yesterdays inspection I found this post cracked and pulled the top corner off to find this:

    img_3615.jpg

    img_3610.jpg

    img_3613-1-.jpg

    img_3602.jpg

    img_3601.jpg

    There's a lot more to it than just replacing a post.

    Positive constructive suggestions are always preferred.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  2. #2
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    What are you after Barry? - options or whats required to replace the post.

    Is the post solid below the top rail. If so, maybe a cosmetic repair to cut the top off and fix/re-fit another in its place as a short term solution. Use dowel or maybe biscuits to hold it in place, glue, sand, paint and it would probably look OK for the sale...no one will notice

    If not, and the post is rotted out then pull the post and replace. Not going to be an easy job.
    The unknown is how big is the lump of concrete holding the post in the ground...given its got a gate hanging off it, could be a decent size which will dictate if its possible to do a minimum dismantle

    Cut the concrete at the base in front of the post, pull the bricks (are they laid on concrete?), detach the rails - pull them back out of the way, detach the rear support but leave in place and detach gate.
    Whats the plinth board attached to? Can it be pulled forward?
    How deep is the concrete garden edging behind the post? can it be removed or does it need to be cut/broken up or can it be left in place depending on what you find in the next step
    Depending on what you find with the lump of concrete holding in the post, you might be able to take a bit more out in front and bricks to the side, then jack hammer the concrete around the post to break it up without removing the thick concrete garden edging behind.

    If that works, should be easy to clear the hole, set up the new post with rail cut outs plumb and concrete into place. Put everything back together.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
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    You could just use builders bog and bog it up.

    You can nail and screw into bog too.
    Last edited by joynz; 5th Oct 2021 at 08:11 PM. Reason: Typo

  4. #4
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    Will that effect the sale price ?, I'd say no.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmac View Post
    Will that effect the sale price ?, I'd say no.
    Agreed. Bog it up and spend your pre-sales money on styling and advertising. That’s what gets results.
    Looks like a nice orderly tree lined street to buy into.

  6. #6
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Replacing that post is a relatively easy job, (and you have one to two years to complete it)

    Take your time to extract the old one without disturbing the railing and leave the bracing in place. Measure properly to get the notches in the right place. dig the concrete out carefully by breaking it in small bits with a small jackhammer
    When inspecting a property for sale, one rotted post does not make much of a difference, but telegraphs that there may be other hidden problems not so obvious. The more "disrepair" alarm bells you can fix the better.
    "builders bog" is by far the worse idea. My as well leave it as is.
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  7. #7
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Thanks heaps gents.
    Much appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  8. #8
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Any further thought?


    img_3647.jpg

    img_3648.jpg

    img_3649.jpg

    img_3650.jpg

    img_3651.jpg
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  9. #9
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    Looks nice and solid.
    Was the post all rotted out where the top rail joined? as I would have cut it off level at the top of the rail to minimise the work required for the cosmetic repair..

    In any case, should be an easy enough process to stick another top on it, will need to be well fixed together.....perhaps with dowels and good exterior PVA wood glue....unless others here have a better suggestion.
    If your not familiar with dowel joints, its easy to get the holes spot on with dowel points...drill the dowel holes in the post, place in the points and line up the top, press down to mark out the hole positions. Plenty of Utube if you need to see.
    Mark out and cut the top rail position, dry fit to requirements and once satisfied,
    glue dowels, glue flat surface and put together.
    You can use a damp rag to wipe away the runs while its still wet
    Once dry (24/48 hours), putty up join line, fit top rail
    The gate will also need another piece of wood fixed underneath its top rail so the hinge can be refitted back onto the solid part of the post...lower than what it was previously.
    I wouldn't be refitting the gate hinge into the cosmetic top replacement.
    Paint and your good to go!

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-10...-pack_p6322872
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

  10. #10
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Champion of champions.
    Thanks for the verbose response.
    Including the links.
    Much appreciated.

    Yes the rot was all the way down level to the bottom of the rail.
    That hole on top goes down quite a bit further.

    I'm thinking I should cut the post down until I find the end of the rot.

    Or just fill the top of it with bog.

    Then glue up with dowels as suggested.

    Thanks again.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  11. #11
    Seasoned DIY droog's Avatar
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    If you are going to fill the hole use epoxy rather than bog.

  12. #12
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Thanks droog.

    I feel the epoxy would drain down far enough to make it expensive.
    The bog was to either feel just the top to keep the rain from getting in again.
    Or just low enough to stop the epoxy from leaking thru.

    And too much epoxy will generate bubbles and weaken the fill.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    I'm thinking I should cut the post down until I find the end of the rot..
    Unless the hole is a bigger issue than what the photo shows, I'd be leaving the post at that height.
    ..fill it and put glue around it when fitting the top on and it will seal it up well enough....will likely last many years until the entire post needs replacing
    To cut it down further will just complicate the repair particularly for refitting the gate.

  14. #14
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Thanks heaps Bart.

    Will do.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  15. #15
    3K Club Member johnc's Avatar
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    Hi Barry, I'd pour some Earls woodhardner in the hole and let it sit for a day, fill hole with epoxy or builders bog. I'd use epoxy glue 2 pack to refix.

    When Covid finally lets me back to Melbourne I will be 10 minutes from your place for a couple of weeks, we could domino the thing back on if you wish

  16. #16
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    hole is at least 150 deep.
    drilled 130 deep and still coming up rotted.
    Can't tell from the outside though.

    img_3658.jpg
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  17. #17
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    untitled.jpg

    img_3682.jpg
    Filled with dowel and west systems 105 with hardner


    in a couple of days I'll shape everything to fit and dowel the @@@@ out of it!

    I'll be using Norglas Staybond Epoxy Glue on the post top.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arron View Post
    ....
    Looks like a nice orderly tree lined street to buy into.
    Glen Iris, Barry? A lovely leafy suburb

  19. #19
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Yes, very nice.
    The lockdown walks are great.
    We do take it for granted,
    Until we visit a new development area.


    Quote Originally Posted by r3nov8or View Post
    Glen Iris, Barry? A lovely leafy suburb
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  20. #20
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnc View Post
    Hi Barry, I'd pour some Earls woodhardner in the hole and let it sit for a day, fill hole with epoxy or builders bog. I'd use epoxy glue 2 pack to refix.

    When Covid finally lets me back to Melbourne I will be 10 minutes from your place for a couple of weeks, we could domino the thing back on if you wish
    Just wondering when I use WOOD HARDENER TIMBERMATE 1L EARLS WOOD EWH1 from bunnings,
    what filler would you recommend besides Turbo 500ml Builders Bog from bunnings?
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  21. #21
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    I’ve used the Earls Multiflex flexible wood filler. But you’ve got to apply in 6mm layers so might not be suitable for large holes.

    For large holes, I’d go with bog every time. And it’s probably cheaper.

    On my rotten windows, I filled most of the holes with bog and then the last few mm with the Earls product as I think it’ll resist moving. But this is on a flat surface - not filling the centre of a post.

    For a house you’re going to sell, go cheap but effective. Even the wood hardener gets pricey!

  22. #22
    Senior Member barrysumpter's Avatar
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    many thanks
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  23. #23
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    The Turbo stuff is easy to work with in my limited experience

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