Driveway Fence post... repair or replace

What are you after Barry? - options or whats required to replace the post.

Is the post solid below the top rail. If so, maybe a cosmetic repair to cut the top off and fix/re-fit another in its place as a short term solution. Use dowel or maybe biscuits to hold it in place, glue, sand, paint and it would probably look OK for the sale...no one will notice

If not, and the post is rotted out then pull the post and replace. Not going to be an easy job.
The unknown is how big is the lump of concrete holding the post in the ground...given its got a gate hanging off it, could be a decent size which will dictate if its possible to do a minimum dismantle

Cut the concrete at the base in front of the post, pull the bricks (are they laid on concrete?), detach the rails - pull them back out of the way, detach the rear support but leave in place and detach gate.
Whats the plinth board attached to? Can it be pulled forward?
How deep is the concrete garden edging behind the post? can it be removed or does it need to be cut/broken up or can it be left in place depending on what you find in the next step
Depending on what you find with the lump of concrete holding in the post, you might be able to take a bit more out in front and bricks to the side, then jack hammer the concrete around the post to break it up without removing the thick concrete garden edging behind.

If that works, should be easy to clear the hole, set up the new post with rail cut outs plumb and concrete into place. Put everything back together.

Good luck!

Will that effect the sale price ?, I'd say no.

Originally Posted by dmac

Will that effect the sale price ?, I'd say no.

Agreed. Bog it up and spend your pre-sales money on styling and advertising. That’s what gets results.
Looks like a nice orderly tree lined street to buy into.

Looks nice and solid.
Was the post all rotted out where the top rail joined? as I would have cut it off level at the top of the rail to minimise the work required for the cosmetic repair..

In any case, should be an easy enough process to stick another top on it, will need to be well fixed together.....perhaps with dowels and good exterior PVA wood glue....unless others here have a better suggestion.
If your not familiar with dowel joints, its easy to get the holes spot on with dowel points...drill the dowel holes in the post, place in the points and line up the top, press down to mark out the hole positions. Plenty of Utube if you need to see.
Mark out and cut the top rail position, dry fit to requirements and once satisfied,
glue dowels, glue flat surface and put together.
You can use a damp rag to wipe away the runs while its still wet
Once dry (24/48 hours), putty up join line, fit top rail
The gate will also need another piece of wood fixed underneath its top rail so the hinge can be refitted back onto the solid part of the post...lower than what it was previously.
I wouldn't be refitting the gate hinge into the cosmetic top replacement.
Paint and your good to go!

https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-10...-pack_p6322872
https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

If you are going to fill the hole use epoxy rather than bog.

Originally Posted by barrysumpter

I'm thinking I should cut the post down until I find the end of the rot..

Unless the hole is a bigger issue than what the photo shows, I'd be leaving the post at that height.
..fill it and put glue around it when fitting the top on and it will seal it up well enough....will likely last many years until the entire post needs replacing
To cut it down further will just complicate the repair particularly for refitting the gate.

Hi Barry, I'd pour some Earls woodhardner in the hole and let it sit for a day, fill hole with epoxy or builders bog. I'd use epoxy glue 2 pack to refix.

When Covid finally lets me back to Melbourne I will be 10 minutes from your place for a couple of weeks, we could domino the thing back on if you wish

Originally Posted by Arron

....
Looks like a nice orderly tree lined street to buy into.

Glen Iris, Barry? A lovely leafy suburb

I’ve used the Earls Multiflex flexible wood filler. But you’ve got to apply in 6mm layers so might not be suitable for large holes.

For large holes, I’d go with bog every time. And it’s probably cheaper.

On my rotten windows, I filled most of the holes with bog and then the last few mm with the Earls product as I think it’ll resist moving. But this is on a flat surface - not filling the centre of a post.

For a house you’re going to sell, go cheap but effective. Even the wood hardener gets pricey!

The Turbo stuff is easy to work with in my limited experience