Good brand metal dropsaw blades?

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  1. #1
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Default Good brand metal dropsaw blades?

    I've got the Makita 2414 NB metal cut-off saw, and while it's a powerful bit of gear, it often cuts out of square vertically.
    It's particularly annoying when doing mitre cuts to be welded as the corners don't line up.

    I've been using the free Makita blades that came with it, so I'm wondering if they're the problem?
    Are there other blades which are more rigid and won't flex as much, causing it to wander and produce a bad cut?
    If so, which brands should I look for?

    I've asked at a couple of local stores without much luck.
    All I get is either "that's never happened to me" or "cut slower".
    I've tried going as slow as humanly possible and it still does it, so I'm assuming that it's the blades...





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  2. #2
    Resigned SilentButDeadly's Avatar
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    Flexovit. Otherwise anything sold by Austsaw.
    Joined RF in 2006...Resigned in 2020.

  3. #3
    Hammer Head - 1K Club Member
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    They all do it when you cut if you put pressure into blade starts to Wobblies and cuts out of square

  4. #4
    Owner Builder Belair_Boy's Avatar
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    I have a Dewalt chop saw but it is of a similar design.

    I think the main deficiency is the pressed steel base and flimsy vice. It is hard to keep the material in position while the cut is in progress and results in an out of square cut. I improved matters by making a heavy steel fence and support for the material to be cut. It is set square with the blade using an engineers square (in both directions and the resultant cuts are much better. There is a limit with the accuracy of these saws but it is good enough for welding. I generally use Flexovit blades but others I have tried are about the same.
    Tools are good, more tools are better!

  5. #5
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Cheers guys, I'll get some Flexovit blades and see how that goes.
    Not that the name suggests that they'll be more rigid haha.


    It really sucks when you're trying to miter a piece of 25x50mm tube and you have a 4mm gap at one end and have to try and square it up with the grinder first.





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  6. #6
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    The issues you have stated indicates to me that either machine has not been set up to cut square or in-accurate measurements or not holding the material firmly enough. Blade wobble would not cause it to cut out of square.

  7. #7
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    I'm talking about it not cutting square vertically.
    There are no adjustments for that, plus I've checked it with a number of different setsquares and the blade is at right angle to the cutting deck when it's not moving.

    The blade is most likely flexing when getting half way through the cut, pushing to the right as you're looking at the machine.

    The material is firmly secured.
    Over-tighten is my middle name.

    The issue is definitely with the blade.
    I've not been doing any metal work really since starting this thread, but when I do next I will be trying a different blade.
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  8. #8
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Old thread.....


    I picked up some Pferd blades for $5 and the difference is mindblowing.
    I would say the cut is 99% perfect.

    Makes you wonder why Makita would include such rubbish blades for free when you can get something so much better at that price....


    I also got a pack of Pferd super thin cutting discs for the 5-inch grinder and I reckon they last longer than the Flexovit ones by the way.

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  9. #9
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    A disk named horse must be a good one
    To explain your previous problem.
    Cheap disk are made of material that is not of consistent hardness across the face of the cutting surface. So there will be one edge that is sharper/ harder than the other. Just like a wood saw or a chainsaw that hits a nail on one side will eat sideways and cut out of sqare. The more flexible the bad blade, the worst the problem

  10. #10
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Yeah no I realise that the problem lies in the flexing of the blade.
    With such a large blade some descrepancies are to be expected.

    However.

    I think it's pretty low of a trusted brand like Makita to include 5 "bonus" blades of such low quality when one can buy something for $5 which is vastly superior.

    The cost of printing "Makita" on the blade was probably close to the cost of the blade itself.....


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  11. #11
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    It hurts to say this but Makita has lost a lot of its previous value as soon as it started manufacturing in China. Those "bonus" blades belong in the bin most of the time with any power tool.

  12. #12
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    Has nayone tried these types of blades in cut off saws ?

    Irwin 355mm 80T Metal Circular Saw Blade 4935559ANZ I/N 6370366 | Bunnings Warehouse

  13. #13
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    That would be the type of blade in one of those slow revolution white oil type saws, wouldn't it! Love to have a shed with one of those.

  14. #14
    1K Club Member Godzilla73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by METRIX View Post
    Has nayone tried these types of blades in cut off saws ?

    Irwin 355mm 80T Metal Circular Saw Blade 4935559ANZ I/N 6370366 | Bunnings Warehouse
    You couldn't use it in a saw designed for discs, they spin at 4000 rpm that blade says 1800 rpm max, you can get cold cut saws that only turn 1200 rpm or so. As for the brand, i wouldn't bother with it... You can get blades with 3 times the amount of tooth life for that price or less...
    I had a life, but my job ate it...

  15. #15
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    No, that blade is a tungsten tipped 1500 rpm saw. Makita has a drop saw for those blades, and no I never used one. If you check youtube you will find some reviews. They all seem to cut square tube of rather thin wall. I doubt you can cut solid round or square material but I may be wrong. It will be a hard gig to keep the blade sharp.

    I do however have a cold saw. They are the best, speed is 30 to 60 rpm, use High speed steel or cobalt steel, you need 2 or 3 different number of teeth, they make very little noise and cut with precision. I hardly ever use a hacksaw, they are a lot of fun to use. I tried to buy a second hand for a long time to no avail, the prices where phenomenal and only some museum pieces with puny size blades had prices under $1000. I bought a Hafco made in Taiwan, medium size single phase. I already forgot what I paid for it
    If you have time, you may be lucky and find one on Greys online for a reasonable price.

  16. #16
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by METRIX View Post
    Has nayone tried these types of blades in cut off saws ?

    Irwin 355mm 80T Metal Circular Saw Blade 4935559ANZ I/N 6370366 | Bunnings Warehouse



    Max RPM on that blade is 1800.

    Cut off saws do about double that.......







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  17. #17
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    AHH, never deal much with metal saws, perhaps that is why this saw only does 1500prm.

    Sydney Tools - Bosch 2000W 305mm (12") Metal Cut-Off Saw - GCD 12 JL

  18. #18
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    Those are OK for aluminium, I wouldn't bother if you are into metal (steel) work. for that money plus the expensive blades, you may as well buy a cheap second hand abrasive disc machine.

    For the cost of those blades and re-tipping and sharpening, a cold saw has no tips, can be resharpened over and over like the old non tipped wood saw. This is the basic Hafco model:
    S816 | CS-275 MetalMaster Cold Saw Bench Model | machineryhouse.com.au

  19. #19
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    I'd imagine that to be messy as.

    I used a blade like that on a 5-inch grinder to cut some alloy once and the chips went EVERYWHERE.
    Back to using the trusty hacksaw for alloy.

    But with some sort of liquid as mentioned above it might be cleaner...





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  20. #20
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post

    I do however have a cold saw. They are the best, speed is 30 to 60 rpm, use High speed steel or cobalt steel, you need 2 or 3 different number of teeth, they make very little noise and cut with precision. I hardly ever use a hacksaw, they are a lot of fun to use.
    That must be the one I am thinking of. Once had 2 pieces of 80mm solid round cut with this and it made me drool watching it.

  21. #21
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Haha.
    lots of people posting the same thing at the same time here.


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  22. #22
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    The 1500 revs metal saw does not use coolant. It stays cool by transmitting the heat of the cut to the chips. I suppose that just like with wood, you need proper saw cover to avoid chips everywhere. Lots of metal working machines make a mess, nibblers are the worst, mills even drills. Get yourself a magnetic broom and cover your shoes. Imagine using that blade in a portable saw!
    Still, probably a good choice for aluminium.

  23. #23
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Have always used my radial arm with a fine tungsten blade for cutting aluminium. Also with a stick lubricant. Nice and slow and does a great job. Can't remember the last time I used a hacksaw.
    BTW, H&G have neat round lolly type tins of 10 thin s/s grinder discs for $12.95. 125 and 100mm.

  24. #24
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    round lolly type tins of 10 thin s/s grinder discs for $12.95. 125 and 100mm.

    Yeh went through a couple of them a while back.
    Then went back to paying a bit more for something that lasts longer.


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  25. #25
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    I found the 100mm Flexovit SS cutting blades are fairly robust, and Made in Australia WHOA didn't thnk we made anything here.

    They work a treat in the cordless grinder.

  26. #26
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    Bought a cheapish Ozito 355mm metal cutting saw about five years ago but had only little use for a while as sitting on concrete floor. Two or three years ago set it up on a platform with roller feed supports and used a lot since then. Largest items cut so far are 75mm square RHS, but used it to cut steel angle iron & pipes. Also cut some aluminium and very neat cuts on plastic stormwater pipes. Has tipped blade and still cutting ok so far. When I bought it I didn't expect much life from it and still not sure which will fail first, the saw motor or the blade. As was mentioned by someone it cuts dry and throws hot chips around but 70% end it in a little chip catcher behind the blade. Can't remember what I paid then and haven't looked to see if still available.

  27. #27
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlatypusGardens View Post
    Yeh went through a couple of them a while back.
    Then went back to paying a bit more for something that lasts longer.


    Had it on good authority these are quality and better than the Makita ones which I found to be good. But seems Makita has been talked down here. Never had an ultra thin blade that lasts too long but they are worth it no matter what, nice quick cuts with less heat and mess.

  28. #28
    ℱᎾℛUℳ ℂℒᎾᏇℕ PlatypusGardens's Avatar
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    Well the down-talking of Makita was regarding the "bonus" blades that came with the cut off saw.

    As for the super thins, I use them all the time in the 5-inch.
    They last longer if you use them gently.
    Don't push too hard.
    If possible, and if you have the patience, only use the weight of the grinder when cutting and you'll get plenty of use from one disc.


    Flexovit are good, and as I said above, the Pferd ones are also a good brand.
    never tried Makita blades for grinders.

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