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Eaves cutback for patio roof

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  1. #1
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    Default Eaves cutback for patio roof

    Our house is brick veneer with a tiled roof and metal fascia. I am having an insulated patio roof installed (125mm thick). To increase the patio ceiling height I am cutting the house eaves back to the brickwork. At the left hand end the new patio roof extends right to the corner. At the right hand end it finishes before the other corner, as per the diagrams. I am having difficulty working out the best method of closing in the cut ends of the tiled roof/eaves and also how to flash between the two.

    I will obviously be installing some framing timber inside the ends of the existing eaves, but what then? Do I just cut a triangle of fibrous cement and nail it to the timber? Do I run the metal fascia around the corner and back to the brickwork and then just fill in the smaller triangle above it with fibrous cement? And how do I flash where the patio roof meets the tiles? I have a roll of 350mm wide lead flashing to play with. The left hand end is the biggest problem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails eaves1.jpg   eaves2.jpg   eaves3.jpg   eaves4.jpg   eaves5.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Why not use extenda brackets to raise the patio roof and keep the eaves as is?

    Roof Extenda Bracket - Roof Extenda Pty Ltd

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by joynz View Post
    Why not use extenda brackets to raise the patio roof and keep the eaves as is?

    Roof Extenda Bracket - Roof Extenda Pty Ltd
    check with your local council for regulations on erecting verandahs


  4. #4
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    I will be obtaining engineering and private certifier approval for the patio. It is going to be fully enclosed with glass later, which is why I want it fully sealed, otherwise I would do a fly-over roof on extenda brackets as you suggest.

    Another issue I have is that there will be a 240mm high gap between the top of the brickwork and the bottom of the roof when I am finished. How do I seal that? I am assuming that I will build a timber frame and then fix fibrous cement sheeting to it. I guess I could re-use the existing eaves material.

  5. #5
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    What you use underside from new roof to brickwork is up to you as you have to look at it, however, reusing the existing eaves material depends on how old the home is, as in could it be ac sheet.

    Frame with fc sheet is simplest.
    Maybe hardie plank with a bit of grain for looks.
    Ends on the roof can be fc or colour flash, or a combination of both.

    Sell the lead.
    You cannot put lead over colorbond as it is not compatible, even water running off lead will corrode roof/gutter/flashing.
    Use color flashing purpose folded for the job, up under the tiles and out over the roof, scribed into the roof profile.
    Same on the ends.
    If you must use a flex metal for flashing use aluminium roll and colour it accordingly, but ideally all flashing should be colour purpose folded.

    I assume you are going to frame/nog between the trusses/rafters and use a receiver channel to take the new roof.

    edited at 10.33 am, 27/5/18

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmolsen View Post
    I will be obtaining engineering and private certifier approval for the patio. It is going to be fully enclosed with glass later, which is why I want it fully sealed, otherwise I would do a fly-over roof on extenda brackets as you suggest.

    Another issue I have is that there will be a 240mm high gap between the top of the brickwork and the bottom of the roof when I am finished. How do I seal that? I am assuming that I will build a timber frame and then fix fibrous cement sheeting to it. I guess I could re-use the existing eaves material.
    I would not worry that much for the small simple framework I do not think it is supporting that much work but you have to consider water running down the roof you need a grate or a channel collecting that roof water and diverting it to the sides.
    That opening needs to be and remid watertight It would be great when finished
    In fact I am going to ask the Install a Verandah guy which is part of Stratco to do one for me that way as my verandah is too low to put a decking


  7. #7
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    I have been thinking about this project for few days and I may come up with ideas like
    butting an LVL along the wall instead of framing it where the bricks wall start then good plywood to finish the wall and tiles runs another 200 mm over the area so not to leave anything structural exposed. then patio joist butt against the lvl .
    Most added garages to a house are built this way


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