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Re roofing in steel

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  1. #1
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    Default Re roofing in steel

    Hi All,
    Looking to replace my 50 year old concrete tiles with steel corrugated.
    In my initial contact with a contractor he mentioned that drilling holes in the wall to secure the wallplate is probably no longer necessary. This contractor has gone cold on me, however does anyone have any idea how this could work?

    And, if anyone has a suggestion for a contractor here in the southern suburbs of Perth, WA, I'd appreciate their details.
    And.....your point is.....what exactly?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by David.Elliott View Post
    Hi All,
    Looking to replace my 50 year old concrete tiles with steel corrugated.
    In my initial contact with a contractor he mentioned that drilling holes in the wall to secure the wallplate is probably no longer necessary. This contractor has gone cold on me, however does anyone have any idea how this could work?

    And, if anyone has a suggestion for a contractor here in the southern suburbs of Perth, WA, I'd appreciate their details.
    My guess is the the contractor is referring to tie down requirements when changing from tiles to steel.

    Have a look here, https://www.renovateforum.com/f76/ch...stions-119293/
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

  3. #3
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    Traditionally(?) here in WA they have drilled a hole from the outside brick wall and partway into the internal wall and then placed a rod in, maybe 10 courses down. In the cavity a threaded rod with a hook bent has been hooked onto that rod and then bolted to the wallplate.
    The original contractor mentioned that drilling holes may no longer be required, but tie down is a must, especially as the long front run of my roof is quite a shallow pitch and more likely to lift.

    I was wondering if anyone knows of an alternative to hole drilling...
    And.....your point is.....what exactly?

  4. #4
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    I suspect the contractor who you spoke to was not going to do the job correctly since it is a lot of extra work.

    The only other method I've seen used a large number of steel I-beams spaced through-out the roof and tied off to the frame. More due to the walls not being the best condition due to salt. I suspect the engineering costs would have been more than what they saved from going to tin from tile.

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    On another issue, I have heard that one problem with going from tile to tin is that there can be some cracks that appear in plaster after the work. I was told this is because the roof will be a lot lighter and the walls will need to "re-stabilise" after the heavy tiles are removed.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by David.Elliott View Post
    Traditionally(?) here in WA they have drilled a hole from the outside brick wall and partway into the internal wall and then placed a rod in, maybe 10 courses down. In the cavity a threaded rod with a hook bent has been hooked onto that rod and then bolted to the wallplate.
    The original contractor mentioned that drilling holes may no longer be required, but tie down is a must, especially as the long front run of my roof is quite a shallow pitch and more likely to lift.

    I was wondering if anyone knows of an alternative to hole drilling...
    You will need a certified Wind load rating from N1-N4?
    The plans will also be required to be submitted to the council and compliance checked depending on the rating
    For N1 anchor 15c down and the straps need to be tensioned, not to forget the load path nodes/connections from the roof battens down to the wall straps need strapping
    BTW, do the job properly or it may affect any future insurance wind damage claims you may have
    hth

  7. #7
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    FWIW there's a little patch of houses where I and a few others are that don't "actually" exist, according to council. Neighbour submitted plans for addition and council informed him they had no record of his cottage being there, so go for it...
    And.....your point is.....what exactly?

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