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Replace or repair bargeboards

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  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Default Replace or repair bargeboards

    I have just bought a 100 year-old house in Sydney that has been a bit neglected. The bargeboard on the front has rotted at the bottom ends see photos (I have removed some of the rotten wood at one end, but not the other. one end . There seem to be 2 boards a wider, plain one with a smaller moulded one above it. On top of the upper board is a sheet of (presumably) asbestos cement board and tiles on top of that.
    Photos:
    img_0771.jpgimg_0772.jpgimg_0773.jpgimg_0774.jpgimg_0775.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/adp7ukhzy...Q6fpOJRSa?dl=0


    I think my options are:

    1) Replace the bargeboards. Removing and replacing the boards themselves looks straightforward, but I would also need to remove the end tile from each row.
    - Should I also remove the asbestos board? (I'm OK with handling asbestos safely) And if so, what's the best material to replace it?
    what is the best cement to use to secure the tiles?
    What do I do with the power line while replacing the board?


    2) Remove the ends of the boards and repair them.
    - How do I attach the new ends to the old boards?


    Which is the best option? Is the repair worthwhile or will I need to replace the boards in a couple of years?
    - For either option. What do I do to stop further deterioration of the end of the rafter (see photo)?

    Thanks for your advice!

  2. #2
    Slow but rough Uncle Bob's Avatar
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    Default

    I think replacement would be easiest.

  3. #3
    Resigned SilentButDeadly's Avatar
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    Default Replace or repair bargeboards

    As Bob says... replacement is more straightforward. You will need a sparky to sort out your powerline though. Tile pointing isn't my area of expertise but there are others here that will be able to give you a sand & cement recipe though the colour matching will be on you!
    Joined RF in 2006...Resigned in 2020.

  4. #4
    3K Club Member johnc's Avatar
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    Pointing looks as though it has brown oxide added, the mix is 4 sand, 1 cement plus a bit of plasticiser, can't help on the last bit however it isn't rocket science and 3 sand to 1 cement works as well just a bit stronger. Stronger isn't better you want it to hold but not that much it cracks the tile before it breaks the bond if there is movement.

    Any barge board with soft spots is best replaced.

  5. #5
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    handling that electricity is going to be $500 to $2000 alone with a level 2 provider, unless you have an alternative attachment point - to do anywork on mine i was going to be out for a couple of days while all work was completed, so instead put a pole in at a cost of $3000 from memory.

    if only the last 150mm of board is damaged - why not simply cut the barge board short - say with a vertical cut from the inside edge of the gutter - you just have to do it both sides to make sure it looks balanced. if you decide down the track, you dont like it, you can laminate an addition to lengthen it, bt with care on the joint and with some sanding and paint, it should look like its all one. (im assuming, like most barge boards, its just the ends that are damaged.)

  6. #6
    Community Moderator
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    Before you do anything get in touch with an electrician as he will know what to do about your point of attachment. Looking closely at the photos which is difficult as the camera is getting the exposure setting from the bright sky the mains into your house are very very light and these will need replacing but that can lead to further expense at the switchboard end.

  7. #7
    Slow but rough Uncle Bob's Avatar
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    Might be a good opportunity to upgrade to an underground service.

  8. #8
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    Thanks all.

    I may have to replace the whole roof in the next 5 years, so don't want to do more work than is necessary now. I also don't want to upgrade my electricity supply right now, and to avoid the cost of moving the connection point, I'm going to replace ~800m on each end of the bargeboard.

    I'll let you know how I get on. /

    A supplementary question: The rafters behind the bargeboard are not rotten - still solid - but have been exposed to a bit of moisture. So I want to treat them to prolong their life. What's the best preservative to use?

    Thanks!

  9. #9
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    When you have finished deciding what is the best option for you, consider “flashing” the barge board with colourbond metal flashing which should be easily Tek or button headed screwed to the timber. The colourbond colour that you choose may not be the ideal colour, but it can easily be painted over later and is guaranteed never to rust or rot. Have done it to all of my places and never regretted it. Make sure you give the timber to be covered a good splash of protective paint before you clad it.

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