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Weird fascia design problem

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  1. #1
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    Default Weird fascia design problem

    Hi All

    i suspect I already know the answer to this question but it is always good to confirm.

    I am in the process of building an unattached 6*6m garage with a flat/skillion roof (approx 2 degree slope). This is to match out house.

    My issue concerns the fascia size.

    The engineer specified 240mm rafters @ 600c so I have 240mm rafter tails, which will need a fascia board.

    i will also use 40 top hat steel battens.

    Ideally I would like to use colorbond fascia to match our main house but I understand it only comes in 185mm and even if I had something custom made the fascia brackets seem to be a standard size to suit 185mm fascia??

    Based on my rough maths I will need a fascia closer to 300mm (240mm rafter tail + 40 batten + x (20-40mm?) fascia return at bottom where eave sheet goes.

    Noting it is a skillion roof I think the only place where the fascia needs to sit at the same height as the battens is the gutter end? I think the other three sides can have a difference between the top of the fascia and battens and be covered by the barge and end cappings? Not sure it is good practice with weather/vermin etc?

    So, I suspect I have two options?

    1. Cut the rafter tails down to a smaller size to suit colorbond? Would 140mm be small enough?

    2. Keep as is and find a suitable fascia board. Likely this will need to be 290mm give or take? I guess if i use FJ pre primed timber it should last a few decades and hopefully not cup if around 25mm-30mm thick. I may have to router my own slot for the eave sheet.

    .8f9e9053-9daf-4900-8f65-eb1e787cd90f.jpg

    Anything I have missed? Any advice for a newbie?

    cheers in advance

  2. #2
    3K Club Member johnc's Avatar
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    Don't see any reason why you shouldn't use ordinary pre primed fascia, if you wish to have the timber as high as the battens just rip down a board and install. This assumes you are putting in an eve sheet and fitting the fascia to suit holding the sheet in the lower groove.

  3. #3
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    Hi John
    Thanks for the reply.
    You had me until ‘ if you wish to have the timber as high as the battens just rip down a board and install.’
    1. Don’t I have to have the timber (fascia?) as high as the battens or in line with them?
    2. Why am I ripping the board down? My biggest issue is actually finding a fascia board big enough (290-300mm)

    Well my biggest issues are likely getting such a big board in place and hoping it does not cup etc.

    Would 25mm thick board be ok?

    Cheers

    James

  4. #4
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    This is for the builders, not me, however to achieve what you are after use a standard 230mm fascia board fitted to suit an eave sheet then trim (rip) a second board 70mm and fit it sitting on top of the 230mm board. you end up with the 300mm you are chasing, its covered by flashing, it doesn't need to be a single board. I don't quite follow what you are trying to do which could explain the lack of answers.

  5. #5
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    Hey John

    Thanks, I NOW understand what you meant with regards to ripping a board. It was not clear you were referring to a ‘ ‘second’ board.

    I tried to be as detailed as I could in my explanation as I often read these threads and replies and it is very hard to follow what people are trying to say. I am sure it is clear in their minds but you often see people saying ‘I don’t know what you mean’ or ‘I don’t understand your reply’. I tried to avoid doing this but it looks like I failed if you and everyone else does not understand what I am trying to do.

    I like your solution as it means I do not need to rout out a channel on a DAR board but can get a 230 board and just add to it. I suspect it also means I can use colorbond fascia cover over this timber too.

  6. #6
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    not to scale, but something like this. If standard flashing doesn't suit, it's not expensive to order exactly what you want

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails carport-fascia.png  

  7. #7
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    I see that you have a solution.
    I can tell you how not to do it. I have fascia boards that are 290mm and 30mm thick. The soffit groove was cut with a circular saw. They all cupped really badly. I had to put blocks behind them and forced them back to flat gradually. It was a lot of work.
    “What a fool believes, he sees. No wise man has the power to reason away”- The Doobie Brothers

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the replies re top flashing and what not to do.

    I was thinking of grabbing two of these:

    https://www.agnewbuildingsupplies.co...ar-h3-188-x-30

    And ripping the top one down to whatever height is required.

    I can then look at fascia board flashing for the bottom cover and flashing for over the top. Sound ok or am I missing something?

  9. #9
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    Sounds ok. Or you could simply use offcuts/small blocks at the top of each rafter to save a few pennies.

  10. #10
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    Thanks and thanks for taking the time to draw the picture. I guess as long as I have something to attach the gutter to it should work. It will all likely be hidden by the colorbond flashing top and bottom.

    next task will be to accurately cut the fascia boards at the right length and with the requisite mitre and compound cut........any tips? I guess measure twice.........

  11. #11
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    Your photo suggests the fall is towards the back, right? You won't need gutters on the front.

  12. #12
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    Yes, you are correct, flat/skillion roof so just a slope to one gutter at the rear.

    I guess as long as the rest of the roof (on the other three sides) has something to hold it up and to keep it level (ish) then it doesn’t matter? As you say, some blocks on the rafters should do the trick?

    The flashing will hide it all

  13. #13
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    Hi R3 and others
    I just had a thought. Could I just use the colorbond fascia brackets and fascia for the lower part of the fascia cover and then use the blocking (whatever) for the top part for the gutter and roof support. In turn covering the upper part with the barge flashing?

    It just seems redundant to put up boards for the lower part and then cover with colorbond fascia cover when the only place I actually need the boards is at the top for the gutter/roof overlap support.

    Thoughts?

  14. #14
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    In essence the 'fascia' named at the bottom part of my drawing can be made of whatever you like

  15. #15
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    Even if you like chocolate I would not recommend it.
    “What a fool believes, he sees. No wise man has the power to reason away”- The Doobie Brothers

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by UseByDate View Post
    Even if you like chocolate I would not recommend it.
    Yeah, not that

    something that complies to building standards

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