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Waterproofing Hobless, Frameless, Walk-In Shower

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  1. #1
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    Default Waterproofing Hobless, Frameless, Walk-In Shower

    Hey guys,

    First renos here. Working through a bathroom and I'm most of the way there, but confused with waterproofing standards (yes I know I need to be licensed for it, but I didn't realise this until I was 90% of the way through so may as well see it through to completion). Image is what I have - black is walls (all villaboard), green is Ezy-Lay shower tray (recessed into the floor), red is proposed frameless glass screen for the shower. House is raised ~1m off the ground, with a wooden floor and no slab.

    I know as it's a hobless shower I need to do additional waterproofing of the entire floor which I am treating like a wet-area.

    What I'm confused by is the water stop. Everything I've read has said it needs to be ~50mm high to accommodate the screed, but as I don't have any of that (nor do I have an external waste anywhere), how exactly is that meant to work? Ezi-lay base is currently glued down with 11FC, and the slight gap between the ceramic tile underlay and the base is also filled with 11FC.

    It's been...fun up until this point. Nothing like pulling walls off to find that half your studs are just...not there (and look to have never been since the house was constructed in the 60's).



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  2. #2
    JB1
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    Default Waterproofing Hobless, Frameless, Walk-In Shower

    Showerscreen outside of the showerbase?

    I'd recommend 2 waterstops.

    One to contain the water around the showerbase and under the showerscreen.

    The other at the bathroom door.

    50mm is dependent of the screed.

    I think I used 40mm for the shower screed and 15mm at the door.


    Ttalk

  3. #3
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    I'm in a similar situation. I built a fall in the whole bathroom floor to the shower drain with the joists. Then it occurred to me, if i put a waterstop near the shower it would turn the rest of the floor into a pond. So I'm just going with an angle at the door and waterproofing the whole floor.

  4. #4
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    Treat the whole floor as if its a shower - the waterstop is at the threshold and has to drain to the waste in the shower. You will need the 50mm to get enough fall to the waste (I'm assuming the doorway is on the bottom left of your plan pic)

    You will however, have to figure out a way to deal with the transition of the threshold - often, the floor is set down 50mm to deal with this type of issue in walk in showers.

  5. #5
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    I don't think he's doing a screed - that's the whole point of an easylay shower base, to avoid doing a screed. So with that in mind, how disastrous is having a flat floor in this situation? With a waterstop at the doorway, I'd still put one under the glass screen. Got pretty good year round evaporation in Brisbane! But a fully enclosed shower would completely solve the problem.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pettro View Post
    I don't think he's doing a screed - that's the whole point of an easylay shower base, to avoid doing a screed. So with that in mind, how disastrous is having a flat floor in this situation? With a waterstop at the doorway, I'd still put one under the glass screen. Got pretty good year round evaporation in Brisbane! But a fully enclosed shower would completely solve the problem.
    Correct.

    Floor has been perfectly flat for the last 60 years, and after removing 3 past renos with minimal to no additional waterproofing (no water stops, no paint - just a sheet of villaboard down on top of existing lino and a cast iron shower base), I was pretty shocked to see maybe 5cm^2 area only that had some light water damage - it was where the shower would leak under the door.
    My wife is pretty accident prone, and after two years in a row where I had to lift her in to the shower while on crutches we went walk-in (it also fits my minimalist mentality, which is convenient).

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