Outdoor Spa pool Frame I have aquired an outdoor octagonal spa pool which has been previously set up inground. What I intend to do with it is to make an above ground portable frame for it so that it can be moved when we shift from here.
What I need to know is -
1. Would a welded say, 50 x 50 mm tubular square steel frame fitted under the top lip of the shell be any better than a well contructed seperate sided wooden one ? And what timber and size would you recommend ?
2. Does the top lip of the pool shell carry all the weight or do you have to put support rails directly under the seating areas as well ? Either way I intend for the pools centre base to be sitting on the ground.
Any help woukl be great. Its too hot sitting around here lately.
Neil
Hey Neil following you around.
Should have asked me today 50mm Tube would be good I would say as they use 10mm on the frames for indoor spas may be over kill but thats the way I like doing things.
The indoor units are supported and a couple of the cheaper outside spas I looked at a couple of years ago had support on the bottom as well suing the ground as support shouldnt be a problem.
So I would build the frame with the 50mm and panel it as you said.
I like to move it move it, I like to move it
PS I will loan you the tools if you want to make a metal one, but a wood one would work as well
I like to move it move it, I like to move it
cant do it neil,
If your spa is 1mx1mx1m then it hold 100ltr of water= 1000kg/ 1 ton of water plus 4 people= 300 kgs
1.3 ton supported by the edge alone? I dont think so.
You'll need to make a support for the underside of the spa- and possibly one for around the spa to keep it in shape .
If you dont play it, it's not an instrument!
1000 litres actually, but the rest of the figures are spot on.Originally Posted by bricks
Mick
"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
Whoops typo
If you dont play it, it's not an instrument!
When I mentioned supporting the top edge I meant the flat area along the top which is about 100mm wide , not the actual 50mm vertical outer edge lip of the spa shell. Does this make sense ? Is the 50 x 50 tubing sufficient to stand up to the likely pressures and stresses ?
Also, WillyinBris , can you weld ? I think you can but can you let me know if you can help out in that department when the time is right. I didnt even think to ask you before, we were too interested in getting your car going.
Neil,
When I mentioned supporting the top edge I meant the flat area along the top which is about 100mm wide , not the actual 50mm vertical outer edge lip of the spa shell. Does this make sense ? Is the 50 x 50 tubing sufficient to stand up to the likely pressures and stresses ?
Also, WillyinBris , can you weld ? I think you can but can you let me know if you can help out in that department when the time is right. I didnt even think to ask you before, we were too interested in getting your car going.
Neil,
yeah, you can't do that.
You need to make a frame that compleatly supports the spa, underside and walls.
The spa was designed to be supported by the ground around it.
You need to do the same.
If you dont play it, it's not an instrument!
I think it best if I can take a sneak preview inside a place that actually makes or sells spa's. I understand and agree with what you are saying about supporting it all around as well , even though the base of the shell will be firmly sitting on the ground.
Anyone recommend a place in the Brisbane / Logan City area ?
Neil.
If you google the make / and or model number, ( if you know them) you might find that they make a framing kit for it. You could buy/ copy that.
If you dont play it, it's not an instrument!
Hi all.....just joined the forum. I've found this thread interesting as I'm in the same position as Neil, having aquired a spa that was sunken into the ground, that I also will build to be taken with us when we move. Having built many things myself in the past & with a family hystory of engineering in various feilds I had an idea of what I was going to do with it.
I don't know what make it is yet.
I've seen many other professional set ups & it seems the shell itsef contains most of the strength.
As I see it the main rule is that the base of the shell MUST be supported by a sound hard surface (ie slabs/brick paving etc) with either pine or a rubber mat in between to reduce chaffing. Then the outer edge/rim must be supported by a frame or similar to help support movement & extra weight/force created by persons & water vibratia.
The 1st thing is to get the spa shell sitting where it is to stay then build the frame around it to give the edges a level support.
In Neil's case, having an octagonal shell will be stronger than a square/rectangular design as the corners are the strong points. U mostly want to reduce flexibility in the shell when in use. In my case, I am prob going 2 use steel 100x100x1.6mm RHS upright in each corner with 50x50x1.6mm each side of an inspection door along the long sides of the shell & 40x40x1mm PGI horizontally between (top & bottom)for the cedar to be screwed onto. I should mention the outside perimiter measurements of my shell is 2620mm x 2120mm. It's a big 10 person unit with 2 beds. The outer rim/edge/lip/whatever is about 120mm wide. My issue is how I'm gonna frame it so as to follow the contour of the rounded corners with cedar. Don't forget, cedar is a strong durable timber so some strength will be gained once that is screwed on. I am going to build the frame in 2 peices that are bolted together just inside the inspection doors.
Also I think this is what Neil was getting at but I was wondering if the frame has to support the outer rim on the most inner point or wether it can sit as far out as poss so the cedar can butt upto the underside of the lip. I know that can lead to water running down the inside but that's fixable. I'm just asking for strength reasons.
And Neil, to answer your question, no the seat of the shell does not need to be supported, at least the 4 designated outdoor spas I've seen weren't. The person to ask there would be a fibreglass expert. I dunno if yours is fibreglass or plastic but the seats are strengthened & also the gelcoat adds to that strength.
Here are some pics of the project so far....
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture173.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture177.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture175.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture200.jpg
It's now stable enough to get into (with care). All told it's been reletively easy (sort of), but well worth it. Pine would have been easier & cheaper to work with but I had a treated pine frame around my pool once & it rotted from excess moisture exposure before it should have. Steel may rust but galvinised will take a LONG time to do so.
Bearded shark, I have approved you picture attachments, next time you post pictures to your thread from photobucket you will find it easier for everyone if you touch the last option,IMG options (in photobucket), this will then copy your photograph and then when posting at this forum go to edit or right click and use paste.
Your photograph will then appear when viewed (the next time the thread is opened)
woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
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