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treated sleeper planter box, no visable fixings

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  1. #1
    Golden Member havabeer's Avatar
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    Default treated sleeper planter box, no visable fixings

    Hi Everyone,

    the wife and I are building 4x planter boxes to put in our back yard. the box dimensions will be 2000 x 450 x 450

    we're building these out of bevelled edge sleepers (150x50mm) partially for the look, partially as they're already skipped dressed. I roughly knocked up one just to visually check its how we want everything.


    where my issue comes in is I'm trying to work out an economic way to not have any fixings shown from the front if possible. the rear and sides don't matter as these will be relatively hidden. Also is it worth lining the internals with builders plastic or try and paint on some of the bitumen paint/waterproofing.


    from a quick think my options are:

    Internal Brackets - stainless would be best but expensive for anything of an appropriate size but zero maintenance, hot dipped Gal is a bit more affordable but I'll definitely have to line the internals to give them and the screws some extra protection. torn between having a bracket for each corner (32 of them) or trying to find something that will cover all 3 sleepers at once.

    Similar to internal brackets - just get some 6mm Hot dipped gal angle and just cut it to length and drill straight through it.

    H4 treated pine - use a 70 x 45 in each corner, pre drill and drive a 75mm bugle from the inside

    Skew screw - Try and skew a decently long screw from the top and bottom side pieces into the rear of the front piece.


    a couple of pictures or roughly what i'm aiming for here:







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  2. #2
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    just built one by skew screwing each layer from the top at the corners. last layer can be screwed in situ, then flipped over to hide the screws. then each layer can be screwed together from the inside with 150mm screws by spade drilling a pocket so you can enter at a circa d5 degree angle (this is much easier with a 75mm thick sleeper, but quite hard to do with a 50mm).

    gal angle is also a nice easy solution - but make sure you tie the sides together vertically every 600 or so - as they dry they always bow at different spots.

    I managed to get a whole stack of SS stair angles for about $6 each pre drilled for 10mm bolts - still we all know that by the time 10 years comes along, none of those batten screws will be coming out with a driver

  3. #3
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    Those brackets in that pic will pull out in 5 minutes once the timber wants to twist.

    Cut a H4 sleeper in half a s screw it from the insides at the corners and every 600mm with batten screws.


    Leave below surface so soil can co rr the cleats
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

  4. #4
    Golden Member havabeer's Avatar
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    Yeah those brackets are just for display purposes. We wanted 1 test box just to see if we liked the look.

    But i think you r right. Either need to rip a sleeper in half or use a 90 x 90 post in the corners.

    Actually realised becuase of the beveled edge i can actually drive some screws in there with out it being overly obvious, driving them in at that angle will help biting into the end grain so not sure if i need corner posts.

    Only used 75mm screws in my test piece so will grab some 100mm and i think it'll be fine



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20211012_174344.jpg   20211012_174402.jpg  
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  5. #5
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    Having built a couple of raised beds; I'd definitely go for posts in each corner and supports at the half way point.
    "A big boy did it and ran away"

    Legal disclaimer denying responsibility to be inserted here.

  6. #6
    Golden Member havabeer's Avatar
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    pray to the wood goods the soaking wet treated pine doesn't warp before I can secure it all together. massively over engineered but want it to last so putting posts in the corners and 2 left over sleeper bits in the middle.

    intending on staining the front the same as the rest of the back yard timber (new jarrah from Cabot's) and slapping a coat of the bitumen paint on the inside. Driving the batten screws through the bevelled part actually looks pretty good.










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  7. #7
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    I also put two cleats in the middle hidden under the soil with another connecting between these from the front to back, this stops the beds spreading apart over time, if your not going to permanently fix them into the ground.

    If you are screwing the corners from the outside, you can do away with the corner blocks.
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

  8. #8
    Golden Member havabeer's Avatar
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    couple more progress pics.

    still a LONG way to go. the boxes will be stained the same colour as the screens above them and filled with plants. intend on levelling out the yard a bit in the far corner where it dips away as well. also need to frame out those screens




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  9. #9
    Deactivated User Marc's Avatar
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    Looks great HaB … lovely kids too

  10. #10
    Golden Member havabeer's Avatar
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    slow progress is still progress.


    the boxes are no longer square, flat or plumb but will look ok once its all done.













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  11. #11
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    Looking good, you could have built a monstrosity like this guy did, needless to say the neighbours are not very happy.

    https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...ll-Sydney.html
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

  12. #12
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    I built similar a but wider and the weakest point is where the crosspieces are attaches as the end grain doesn’t have much holding power and the screws have let go on one corner.

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