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  1. #1
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    Default Shredder blades

    Hi. I’m trying to figure out how this bracket comes off so I can get to the Bearing,it’s on a rover shredder with 5hp Briggs and Stratton moter any advice would be appreciated Thanks
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    Last edited by phild01; 16th Jul 2022 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Thread moved from end of the day

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon58 View Post
    Hi. I’m trying to figure out how this bracket comes off so I can get to the Bearing,it’s on a rover shredder with 5hp Briggs and Stratton moter any advice would be appreciated Thanks
    It's an interference fit on the tapered and keyed shaft, sometimes a quick sharp tap with a hammer sideways on the tube section will break them free. Note I said "quick sharp" don't flog the crap out of it or you may damage the shaft. Squirt some penetrating spray in there as well to help loosen it. The proper way is to install the centre bolt loosely and put a puller on it, if you don't have a puller you could easily make one up if you're a bit handy.
    Another way is to hit it on each side of the tube with 2 hammer faces at the same time, need a bit of co-ordination for this one so don't try it after too many beers
    If you can't manage to co-ordinate 2 hammers at once, hold one big hammer on one side and hit the opposite side with another hammer.
    Never argue with idiots, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


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    Default Shredder blades

    Quote Originally Posted by Whitey66 View Post
    It's an interference fit on the tapered and keyed shaft, sometimes a quick sharp tap with a hammer sideways on the tube section will break them free. Note I said "quick sharp" don't flog the crap out of it or you may damage the shaft. Squirt some penetrating spray in there as well to help loosen it. The proper way is to install the centre bolt loosely and put a puller on it, if you don't have a puller you could easily make one up if you're a bit handy.
    Another way is to hit it on each side of the tube with 2 hammer faces at the same time, need a bit of co-ordination for this one so don't try it after too many beers
    If you can't manage to co-ordinate 2 hammers at once, hold one big hammer on one side and hit the opposite side with another hammer.
    Great advice 👍 so doing this if it loosens it will pull off not screw off?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon58 View Post
    Great advice 👍 so doing this if it loosens it will pull off not screw off?
    I see it pulls of. Is it the centre one comes up or both lift up. Sorry about all the questions

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    The outer tube part just lifts up away from the shaft, the shaft in the centre just stays where it is in the deck . It has a keyway cut into the shaft and the tube part and a square section or half moon key locates the 2 parts together so they can't turn. The bolt that you have removed holds the tube part up tight onto the shaft, the tube part and shaft are both tapered. Once you break the tension on the taper, the part will slide straight off. Most ball joints, tie rod ends etc. on just about every car ever made uses this same principle. There are other ways I can suggest if these ways don't work, but try this first.

    Which bearing are you trying to replace? By the look of the photos that shaft in the middle could be the engines crankshaft??
    Never argue with idiots, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitey66 View Post
    The outer tube part just lifts up away from the shaft, the shaft in the centre just stays where it is in the deck . It has a keyway cut into the shaft and the tube part and a square section or half moon key locates the 2 parts together so they can't turn. The bolt that you have removed holds the tube part up tight onto the shaft, the tube part and shaft are both tapered. Once you break the tension on the taper, the part will slide straight off. Most ball joints, tie rod ends etc. on just about every car ever made uses this same principle. There are other ways I can suggest if these ways don't work, but try this first.

    Which bearing are you trying to replace? By the look of the photos that shaft in the middle could be the engines crankshaft??
    Thanks so much whittley 66 Iíll give that a go tomorrow and see what happens 🙏

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon58 View Post
    Thanks so much whittley 66 I’ll give that a go tomorrow and see what happens ��
    Can’t budge it soaked it with wd40 even tried putting some multi grips around the outside shaft and hitting upwards no go. I suppose been together for 25 years it’s stuck pretty good. The main reason I’m doing this is I was feeling under the mulcher and felt something wrapped around the top part of the shaft we’re it go’s through to the moter, so I unwrapped it and it was wire and some other stuff. I got most of it but now oil is slowing leaking out from there. That’s why I’m pulling it apart. The picture shows the wire that’s left .
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    I hope while you are trying to get it off you have pressure on it eg have the piece you are trying to remove suspended so as when it lets go the drive shaft falls away. Two hammers one held on the sleeve one side and the other hit it on the opposite side. You will have to do this on a few places around the sleeve.

    A bit of heat on the sleeve wouldn’t hurt but not to much that it damages the seal.

    A puller would be easy to make but you will still have to use the two hammer trick.

    I hope no locktite has been used as then it is a different ball game.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bros View Post
    I hope while you are trying to get it off you have pressure on it eg have the piece you are trying to remove suspended so as when it lets go the drive shaft falls away. Two hammers one held on the sleeve one side and the other hit it on the opposite side. You will have to do this on a few places around the sleeve.

    A bit of heat on the sleeve wouldnít hurt but not to much that it damages the seal.

    A puller would be easy to make but you will still have to use the two hammer trick. Regards

    I hope no locktite has been used as then it is a different ball game.
    Ok Iíve got it suspended about 20mm of the deck being hitting with a big hammer and small one and the bloody thing wonít budge so itís got me stumped 🤔 08b007ec-c977-453b-b337-8b436a8ae55a.jpg
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    From what I can see you have it suspended by the shaft. You have to suspend it by the part you want to remove so just reposition the sling. You should have the engine fall away from the part that you have suspended. Give that a try.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bros View Post
    From what I can see you have it suspended by the shaft. You have to suspend it by the part you want to remove so just reposition the sling. You should have the engine fall away from the part that you have suspended. Give that a try.
    Iíve got it on the outside one Bros image.jpg

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    Have you got a better hammer? The big stationary one is good but I’m not a fan of claw hammers for that job a heavy ball pein one would be good as when you hit it it would feel solid. From the parts list it has a retaking bolt in the shaft and a woodruff key in the shaft. I can’t see any reason locktite was used unless they lost the key.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bros View Post
    Have you got a better hammer? The big stationary one is good but Iím not a fan of claw hammers for that job a heavy ball pein one would be good as when you hit it it would feel solid. From the parts list it has a retaking bolt in the shaft and a woodruff key in the shaft. I canít see any reason locktite was used unless they lost the key.
    Iíve got a sledgehammer Iíll try that with the bigger hammer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon58 View Post
    I’ve got a sledgehammer I’ll try that with the bigger hammer
    Not that big just the big hammer in the pic and a 32oz ball pein hammer NO bigger.

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    Where are you hitting it? On the round sleeve or the bottom flat steel part with 2 holes in it? You need to hit it on the sleeve where the inner shaft sits in the outer sleeve, those hammers are fine for doing this.
    If it comes free, what is preventing the engine from being damaged when it falls?

    Ok, time to get serious. If you don't have a puller get 2 bolts with long threads that will just slide through the 2 holes in the plate (the bigger the better). Put the bolts in from the top and screw nuts under the plate, hold the nuts from turning and tighten both bolts down onto the base plate. Screw the centre bolt in almost all the way, leave about a 1 - 2mm gap between the bolt and the sleeve. Now tighten the 2 bolts as tight as you get get them without damaging the threads or bending the plate, give the centre bolt a quick sharp whack with a hammer. This should break it free, as it loosens keep tightening the 2 bolts while loosening the centre one also. If the bolts dig into the deck, place some flat steel between the bolts and the deck and add a bit of grease to reduce friction. Keep an eye on the clearance between the inner bolt and the outer sleeve all the way through the process as if you have no gap the 2 outer bolts can't pull it off any further.

    Edit: I didn't know this post got moved so I didn't reply earlier sorry. That wire will have damaged the engine crankshaft cover seal if oil is leaking out, so you'll need to remove the engine and pull the crankshaft plate off and renew the seal. Hopefully the wire hasn't damaged the seal bore in the cover.
    Never argue with idiots, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


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    Get a two arm puller and get it under the plate closest to the sleeve. Using a puller in the bolt holes in the plate will most likely end up with a bent plate.
    Intense heat on the sleeve will also heat but would probably need to be oxy for quick heating otherwise the heat will soak into the crank and do other potential damage.

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    I only had it about 10mm off the floor. Great advice Iíll give that a go 👍
    Quote Originally Posted by Whitey66 View Post
    Where are you hitting it? On the round sleeve or the bottom flat steel part with 2 holes in it? You need to hit it on the sleeve where the inner shaft sits in the outer sleeve, those hammers are fine for doing this.
    If it comes free, what is preventing the engine from being damaged when it falls?

    Ok, time to get serious. If you don't have a puller get 2 bolts with long threads that will just slide through the 2 holes in the plate (the bigger the better). Put the bolts in from the top and screw nuts under the plate, hold the nuts from turning and tighten both bolts down onto the base plate. Screw the centre bolt in almost all the way, leave about a 1 - 2mm gap between the bolt and the sleeve. Now tighten the 2 bolts as tight as you get get them without damaging the threads or bending the plate, give the centre bolt a quick sharp whack with a hammer. This should break it free, as it loosens keep tightening the 2 bolts while loosening the centre one also. If the bolts dig into the deck, place some flat steel between the bolts and the deck and add a bit of grease to reduce friction. Keep an eye on the clearance between the inner bolt and the outer sleeve all the way through the process as if you have no gap the 2 outer bolts can't pull it off any further.

    Edit: I didn't know this post got moved so I didn't reply earlier sorry. That wire will have damaged the engine crankshaft cover seal if oil is leaking out, so you'll need to remove the engine and pull the crankshaft plate off and renew the seal. Hopefully the wire hasn't damaged the seal bore in the cover.

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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    Get a two arm puller and get it under the plate closest to the sleeve. Using a puller in the bolt holes in the plate will most likely end up with a bent plate.
    Intense heat on the sleeve will also heat but would probably need to be oxy for quick heating otherwise the heat will soak into the crank and do other potential damage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Bob View Post
    Ok hereís a update, the 2 prong puller did the job a piece of piss . So this Falange just pops off or some other way? Weíre I took the rest of the stuff off thatís weíre it is leaking a little bit of oil from. Any advice appreciate 👍
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    Looks like we were all wrong and it is just a parallel shaft with a shoulder.

    The oil leak is in the motor bottom seal so you need to get the slinger off so you can remove the motor.

    Yes it looks like it just pops off but you would probably need to get a new one when you reassemble it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bros View Post
    Looks like we were all wrong and it is just a parallel shaft with a shoulder.

    The oil leak is in the motor bottom seal so you need to get the slinger off so you can remove the motor.

    Yes it looks like it just pops off but you would probably need to get a new one when you reassemble it.
    Yep she popped up,took a bit, what now Bros to get this Bearing out? Thanks
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon58 View Post
    Yep she popped up,took a bit, what now Bros to get this Bearing out? Thanks
    Most likely the bearing is installed from inside the engine casing, disassemble is the only way if it is.
    Get a engine model number and find a repair manual online if you are not familiar with small engines.

    Even if it is installed from the outside it will most likely require splitting the case so it can be pressed out.
    Last edited by droog; 3rd Aug 2022 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Additional info

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon58 View Post
    Yep she popped up,took a bit, what now Bros to get this Bearing out? Thanks
    Why do you want to get the bearing out?

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    Rover manuals here
    https://www.rover.com.au/product-man...n-up-equipment

    Includes exploded view and parts list for the engines,
    .

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bros View Post
    Why do you want to get the bearing out?
    Itís leaking oil from that area , and itís the only place I can pin it down to? (. Iím only a chippie by trade)

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    What you have now is proberbly a Briggs and Stratton engine. All engines of this type you need to split the crankcase to remove the bearing but for an oil leak you have a seal that is put in from the outside. What you are looking at is the seal.

    I know how I would replace the seal but I would suggest going to a small motor repairer and find out for certain if you are looking at the seal and get a new seal.

    To replace the seal would be a bit tricky as you need a piece of pipe that would fit owner the shaft and sits on the outside of the seal so you can get the seal on square.

    if you look closely you may see some numbers on the seal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bros View Post
    What you have now is proberbly a Briggs and Stratton engine. All engines of this type you need to split the crankcase to remove the bearing but for an oil leak you have a seal that is put in from the outside. What you are looking at is the seal.

    I know how I would replace the seal but I would suggest going to a small motor repairer and find out for certain if you are looking at the seal and get a new seal.

    To replace the seal would be a bit tricky as you need a piece of pipe that would fit owner the shaft and sits on the outside of the seal so you can get the seal on square.

    if you look closely you may see some numbers on the seal.
    Okay Iíll give that a go. At the moment Iíve put it back together,and it seems not to be leaking after I got the wire and fishing line and then string from around the shaft,only time will tell 🙏 another thing is Iíve got to take the air cleaner and filter off and pour a bit of juice down the carby to get it started. But once warmed up it starts straight away,only when cold I have to do this, what would cause this ? Thanks
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon58 View Post
     another thing is I’ve got to take the air cleaner and filter off and pour a bit of juice down the carby to get it started. But once warmed up it starts straight away,only when cold I have to do this, what would cause this ? Thanks
    Not pulling it hard enough. It is normal as my mower while it doesn't have a B&S engine has a bulb you push to inject a small amount of fuel into the inlet. Whipper snippers are the same.

    The 5Hp engines are buggers to pull over.

    Get some Start You Bazard and just spray a bit of that in the inlet to the air cleaner.

    As yours is old the manufacturers woke up to the problem and added the primer in later engines.

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    Tried this stuff,I think same horse different jockey. Sprayed up the air filter inlet,no go took the air filter off straight in the carby no start. Put about a tea spoon of Petrol in the carby started second pull . When I first got it I just gave it full chock and when it spluttered but it back to Run and away she went. Could it be the casket between the fuel tank and the carby be causing this?
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