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Measuring up for glass to go into a "cavity"

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  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    NSW
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    11

    Default Measuring up for glass to go into a "cavity"

    Hi all.. I don't know what I am doing, but the carpenter guy who removed the upper wooden panels from the door leading to the verandah said he would be back, and he hasn't been, and I have got to go get the glass tomorrow... yep, I live in the country, so I have to go to the glazier on our weekly shopping trip to the big smoke.

    So, here is the go. The door is about 45mm thick. In each of the two holes that I now have (about 1100 high x 240 wide, interior dimensions) there is a channel all around about 15mm wide and about 10mm thick.

    The glass (6mm) is supposed to be set in putty with some 6mm quarter round all around for cosmetics.

    Suppose I get the glass cut to exactly the height (1100) of the hole, and maybe 5mm wider than the hole .. so I should be able to slide the piece in sideways into the putty. Or should I go more than 5mm with the channels being so wide.. maybe 240+10+10 .. no that sounds like I would not get it all the way to the base of one of the side channels and be able to shiggle it back. So, maybe 240+10 ?

    On the height.. the exact height, or more? or less? It seems to me I can only be oversize (relative to the hole) on one dimension .. so maybe I should get the glass height 2mm or so less than the opening height?

    Anyone want to set me straight on this?

    thanks

  2. #2
    Novice
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Hi Mutley
    If I understand your question correctly you have a slot around the inside of the opening in the door where the timber was removed. If this is the case it would be safer to remove the doors and use a router on the outside or inside to change the slot into a rebate so you can fit a piece of glass of a size just a little bit smaller than the bottom of the slot ( now a rebate ) This would give good contact and support for the glass all the way around ( 10 mm if I understand you description correcly,

    Then you can put putty/ silicon all the way around and put in a beading to hold the glass in place

    If all this makes sense then you would need a piece of glass 1100 +10 + 10 minus 2mm to allow for inaccuracies in the frame and 240 +10+10 minus 2mm wide

    It is important to check the diagonal measurements as well as the door may not be square and the glass will not fit!

    What sort of glass are you going to use? The last time I replaced external glass in a door the replacement had to be laminated.

    Hope this helps
    Cheers
    Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work 'Aristotle'

  3. #3
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    11

    Default

    thanks for the ideas.. I am not much of a hand with a router though, but I can certainly see the wisdom of the suggestion. Good idea about checking the diagonals.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    brisvegas
    Posts
    132

    Default

    If you can take the door with you the glazier should be able to do it.

  5. #5
    Fishn' Chippie
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    76

    Default

    hey mutley, i recently had to replace glass in a front door very similliar to what your describing, now i have never done this before so i just winged it...rang the glass company and gave them exact measurements of the rebated section. (pretty sure they took 2mm off length and height to allow for movement.) once i had the glass i put a very light bead of silicone all around the rebate, placed the glass in and then a very light bead of pva on the quad(the side that is touching the timber not the glass) and nailed it off with a C1 bradder. worked fine, i dont know how the pros do it, but it came up a treat.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Cronulla, NSW
    Posts
    253

    Default

    If possible I would cut out a couple of templates from thick cardboard or masonite to have a dummy run at what size and how the finished product will sit in the rebate...easier to trim cardboard/masonite (even if u have to do it more than once) than glass.

  7. #7
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    Greenmount WA
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    13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronaldo451 View Post
    If possible I would cut out a couple of templates from thick cardboard or masonite to have a dummy run at what size and how the finished product will sit in the rebate...easier to trim cardboard/masonite (even if u have to do it more than once) than glass.
    I prefer the masonite (hardboard). When it fits neatly, take it to the glazier and say, "This size please."

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