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Secondary glazing/Reglaze...?

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  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Default Secondary glazing/Reglaze...?

    Hi All,
    I've recently bought a house which is approx 25 years old and has large floor-ceiling wooden windows. The windows only have 1 moving pane per window for ventilation. Unfortunately they are pretty poor windows in the winter for keeping the heat inside , as we'd much rather keep the windows i'm wondering what's the best method to making them more thermally efficient. Is it worth replacing the glass with thicker thermal glass and resealing or leaving them alone and adding a secondary glazing barrier?
    I'm no whizz with windows woodwork and they don't seem easy to get the glass out so its likely i'm going to have to get a glazer in but is there a secondary glazing option on the market or will it be a custom install?
    Any ideas/suggestions are appreciated.Cheers.
    Jim

  2. #2
    Senior Member Ashwood's Avatar
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    Default

    I came across the website below when I was considering a similar situation.
    http://www.magnetite.com.au

    No idea if they're any good but worthwhile exploring cost & effectiveness if you go this route. Let the forum know how you go if you do.

    I haven't done anything to mine yet, although I'm thinking of doing an unorthodox solution ie. leave the window frame, architraves in place, then use the Arbotech Allsaw to remove the parts of the window within the frame. Then I order double glazed windows to fit into the old frame. This will mean my glass surface area is reduced, but that is fine for my situation.

    If anyone thinks this won't work for any other reason, would appreciate your comments & reasons.

    Cheers.

  3. #3
    fool
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    Aug 2007
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    Melbourne
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    Default secondary double glazing

    I've done one of my windows with flyscreen aluminium frames silconed to inner frame. Then buying clear plastic(gazebo stuff?) off the roll at Bunnies(not the thinest stuff the next one up) and installing it as you would the flyscreen mesh. This gives a taught finish. The net curtains were then re-installed(further out than before), and you can't see the difference. I'm getting round to doing the lounge before winter There are limitations with the size of the alloy strips and the width of the plastic available.

    cheers

    gravy

  4. #4
    Golden Member
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    Feb 2008
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    Default Magnetite

    I had a chat with the Magnetite guys, and it appears - not having actually used them - that they are good but $exxy, e.g about $600 for a 2 x 2 m window. Marginally cheaper per unit for more windows.

    What Magnetite do is fit a thermally-efficient second glass panel to the outside of the window. All have to be custom made to suit your window dimensions, of course.

    This can be removed for cleaning, change of seasons etc.

  5. #5
    Apprentice (new member)
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    May 2008
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    Canberra
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jambo000 View Post
    Hi All,
    I've recently bought a house which is approx 25 years old and has large floor-ceiling wooden windows. The windows only have 1 moving pane per window for ventilation. Unfortunately they are pretty poor windows in the winter for keeping the heat inside , as we'd much rather keep the windows i'm wondering what's the best method to making them more thermally efficient. Is it worth replacing the glass with thicker thermal glass and resealing or leaving them alone and adding a secondary glazing barrier?
    I'm no whizz with windows woodwork and they don't seem easy to get the glass out so its likely i'm going to have to get a glazer in but is there a secondary glazing option on the market or will it be a custom install?
    Any ideas/suggestions are appreciated.Cheers.
    Jim
    Jim, you may well have finished with this problem by now, but there is a great website www.clearcomfort.com.au which shows various ways of 'double glazing' with a thin film. You stick it on with double-sided tape around 12 to 16 ml from the window (use beading or the ridges in the frame...or make a freestanding frame that you can fit in and remove when you want to... they show options) then warm it (hairdryer) so it becomes wrinkle free and taught. Works really well. Limitations are small children and dogs ripping it, but it is prtty sturdy. You can put it on a separate frame and totaly cover poorly sealed windows if you don't need to open them during winter. The first window takesa while, but you can develop the skill quite quickly. You can do an average 3 bed house for under $200, or more if you have more windows than the kit covers. They do smaller demo kits.

    The other thingthat I have done is use 1mm clear acrylic sheeting from B's, and made a freestanding frame out of plastic u-shaped stuff that comes in 2.4 m lengths... probably for the edge of gyprock or something...sorry I don't know what it is called. I cut the sheeting to fit the window, then cut the framing to fit inside the reveal. Then put the sheeting into the u stuff 1 side at a time, and held it there with some white stuff that is about 12ml in diameter, and comes on a roll like rope. It is made out of something squishy but firm enough to wedge into the u to hold the sheeting in. I didn't glue or secure the corners, as the ropey stuff held it well enough, but I suppose it would be beter if you did.
    Then the whole thing just fits neatly into the reveal of the window, and sits there. It would probably be better to stick a layer of doorseal on the inside closest to the window glass, to seal it better (the thin sponge that you can stick around the doorjamb to stop the wind... 2 or 3 dollars to deal a door... SOOO good when the wind blows off the snow....!.. might help your windows. You can get it different types and thicknesses)

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