Hire the best Handyman

Connecting two pieces of painted timber without seeing join

Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    1K Club Member Gooner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
    Posts
    1,117

    Default Connecting two pieces of painted timber without seeing join

    I have decorative strips that are to go on top of some cabinets. See photos. The timber strips come in 2.2M lengths and I have some 2.4M runs so I have to connect two strips in these runs.

    As these are decorative strips that go on the top of the cabinets, I do not want to see a join. No matter how nicely I cut them, the join is obvious. (To me at least.) Because of the finish on the strips, painting them makes them look different to the rest of the cabinets.

    So I am wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to connect these strips and minimize the obviousness of the join.

    Specifically, these are Ikea decorative strips (402.736.92)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_4155.jpg   img_4156.jpg  
    I'm no expert, but know enough to be dangerous...
    __________________

  2. #2
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    13,886

    Default

    Have two joins not one, each at say 200 mm from the end. Make the join obvious by offsetting the additional piece some 5 mm back to make it a feature. Shouldn't be too hard to match the paint on the little strip that will show.
    https://www.amazon.com.au/Global-Warming-Climate-Change-Hoax-ebook/dp/B00JPU8332

  3. #3
    1K Club Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Country NSW
    Posts
    1,501

    Default

    Try a scarf joint, cut with a very fine blade and accurate mitre saw.
    Never argue with idiots, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


  4. #4
    Senior Member ForeverYoung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Perth Hills WA
    Posts
    216

    Default

    mitre joint rather than butt join

  5. #5
    Slow but rough Uncle Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    North Cooma, Canberra
    Posts
    5,301

    Default

    Since you're painting it, you can use a filler to hide any bad joints.

  6. #6
    1K Club Member Gooner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
    Posts
    1,117

    Default

    Thanks all for the feedback and suggestions.

    Marc, I like your idea and this is the type of out-of-box ideas I was looking for. However, as I have cabinets with different depths, I cannot see how I can do this without it looking very odd.

    I have tried a mitre joint and also used filler in the join, but I just cant seem to get it right. I used no-more-gaps mixed with matched paint, but it looks messy.

    Uncle Bob - I am not painting them. They already have a finish on them and painting them doesn't look right.

    I am thinking one of my problems is that my mitre saw has a 40 tooth blade on it. I have used this for years and has generally been OK for the work I have done. However, I think for this I may need to upgrade to a 80 tooth blade to get a finer cut so the pieces join better. My existing blade has been going for several years and probably suffering from lack of sharpness as well.

    Not sure if anyone has recommendations on a good 254mm saw blade to get a good cut on finished timber.
    I'm no expert, but know enough to be dangerous...
    __________________

  7. #7
    7K Club Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    8,082

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ForeverYoung View Post
    mitre joint rather than butt join
    Yep, agree

    And the new blade should help. Or ask a cabinet maker to cut it for you

    Or use the butt join and place the cut perfectly in the middle of 'features' like the cabinet doors per pic #2

    And regardless, you will be the only person who notices

  8. #8
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    13,886

    Default

    I like Reno's idea. Have one butt joint in the middle and make it obvious by chamfering the edge. You will need to make a matching finish for the groove on the joint.
    Diablo circular saw blade. Not cheap

    https://www.totaltools.com.au/113123...ish-2608644437
    https://www.amazon.com.au/Global-Warming-Climate-Change-Hoax-ebook/dp/B00JPU8332

  9. #9
    Senior Member ForeverYoung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Perth Hills WA
    Posts
    216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gooner View Post
    ....

    I have tried a mitre joint and also used filler in the join, but I just cant seem to get it right. I used no-more-gaps mixed with matched paint, but it looks messy.

    ...
    the advantage of the mitre join is you can pin the 2 pieces together so you don't see the gap.
    scarf-joint.jpg

  10. #10
    Novice
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Wellington New Zealand
    Posts
    34

    Default

    If the ends of the moulding are contained by the sides a whisker over size would push a butt joint together without having pin holes to hide. I have some pieces of architrave cut with Makita 60 tooth 10 & 12" mitre saws that go back together with just a hairline.

  11. #11
    1K Club Member Gooner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
    Posts
    1,117

    Default

    So I bought a decent 80 tooth blade and realised... what a difference. After removing, I see my 40T has lots of chips on the teeth. The 80T goes through like butter and it joins up much better with a hairline. A bit of grey no-more-gaps helps to hide it as well.
    I'm no expert, but know enough to be dangerous...
    __________________

  12. #12
    7K Club Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    8,082

    Default

    Good stuff

  13. #13
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    13,886

    Default

    Which brand did you buy?
    https://www.amazon.com.au/Global-Warming-Climate-Change-Hoax-ebook/dp/B00JPU8332

  14. #14
    1K Club Member Gooner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
    Posts
    1,117

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Which brand did you buy?
    I bought a Full Boar 80T 254mm diameter fine finishing blade. Difference with the old blade is chalk and cheese. I hardly feel it go through the material. I may need a new 40T as well.
    I'm no expert, but know enough to be dangerous...
    __________________

  15. #15
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney North
    Posts
    9,625

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gooner View Post
    I bought a Full Boar 80T 254mm diameter fine finishing blade. Difference with the old blade is chalk and cheese. I hardly feel it go through the material. I may need a new 40T as well.
    Old blades will give rubbish quality cuts, 40 tooth on a 254mm blade is only suitable for cutting framing.

    If you buy blades from Bunnings, look at the Makita BluMak, these crap on most blades for cut quality and life, even though the 255mm blade has 64T, it's the quality of the tungsten that makes it a better blade.

    For fine finish work I use the 184mm saw, with 60T blades, the cut quality is perfect, you couldn't get a piece of paper between any joins.
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

Similar Threads

  1. best way to join timber fence rails mid way??
    By wozzzzza in forum Fences & Screens
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 28th Jun 2018, 03:05 PM
  2. Best timber for painted deck?
    By paddyjoy in forum Decking
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 15th Nov 2016, 01:19 PM
  3. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 4th Feb 2016, 07:01 PM
  4. What to do with this timber pieces?
    By barney118 in forum General Odds & Sods
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 20th Dec 2012, 03:28 PM
  5. Water Seaping Through Connecting Contrete Join
    By lukelegend in forum Concreting
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 7th May 2009, 07:11 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •