LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With QuoteNot if you plan on putting anything on it. Try these guys, I'd put 25mm on the top, 18mm for the rest. If you want a really good finish ask for the price difference to hoop ply.
Bendigo Timber - Plywood
Desk build with plywood. Can I use 12mm? Hi,
I am going to be building a permanent desk in my home office. I have decided on plywood for its durability. I have been having trouble finding 18mm thickness in the size that I need and was wondering if I would get away with 12mm? I was looking at this from bunnings. It's very overkill but it's the thickest they have for the size I need.
Here is the desk in question
It will be running the whole length of one wall and about half the other. There will be two 70mm x 35mm lengths of structural pine screwed into the walls for back support along with the legs and drawers.
I honestly don't think it will be thick enough, but thought I would ask the question anyways
Not if you plan on putting anything on it. Try these guys, I'd put 25mm on the top, 18mm for the rest. If you want a really good finish ask for the price difference to hoop ply.
Bendigo Timber - Plywood
Thanks for that. I figured as much. I haven't worked with enough wood to know what can handle what yet. What are your thoughts on MDF?Originally Posted by NZC
12mm should be more than adequate providing the edges are strengthened appropriately using a hardwood batten but 18mm would be insurance plus peace of mind; still with the hardwood edge batten tho.
One thing tho is the lack of drawer space, I would need a set of drawers on the R/H side also and I would be using a curved 45 degree join in the corner to make movement easier and making that corner support bracket at 45 into the corner with a 90*45 on top
"A big boy did it and ran away"
Legal disclaimer denying responsibility to be inserted here.
Thanks Moondog. I'm limited in my tools and knowledge still, so wouldn't be confident in my skills to complete a nice clean curved cut. I am am assuming any seams where the desk top joins could be hidden with putty fill (I will be painting the desk). This wouldn't be an option with MDF as the fibres always stick up.
Can the batten edge be set back a bit? I would think it would support just as well without being so obvious
I could make an angle cut across that corner, though. It might solve my sizing issue at the same time, although that corner might look a bit too big. I will see if I can make the changes in Sketchup tonight.
As for the drawers, I only wanted the three. There will be a bar fridge under the left hand side
you could also laminate two sheets of 12mm together. glue them. some heavy weights for a day or so. cut afterwards as a single sheet will give you clean lines.
what about this:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/plyfloor...oring_p0390075
Floor ply generally has a good finish.
This is a good idea actually. But if I can get a lower grade, I'd be fine with it as I'm painting it. Save some dough, you know?
I was looking at C Grade at Bendigo Timber, which was suggested earlier in the thread, so this would probably do it. Pre-sanded and what-not. I might change the depth of the desk to 600 so i can can cut it clean down the center and save some dosh.
I bought a standup electric adjustable height frame desk, but with no top - the top was made out of chipboard with vinyl etc covering and didn't like it. Thankfully, the supplier was happy to supply the frame with no top. Mobel Height Adjustable Frame DM15.
Went to bunnings and bought a piece of 25mm ply - smooth on one side, a bit rough on the other side, cut to 1800mm x 800mm, and routed the edges into a nice curve. Sanded and clear coated with 3 layers and have been using it since August 2013. Perfect. Wouldn't use 12mm thin ply on my desk.
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
Alright, here's my MK2 design. I'm going with this from bunnings. So 25mm thick, going with 600mm wide and CD grade plywood. Might be a bit rough, but some building bog should sort it out.
Anyone have any constructive criticisms or tips? Will the design hold do you think?
Last edited by Triodz; 28th Sep 2017 at 08:37 PM. Reason: added url
When you go to Bunnings, you can select the plywood sheets with the best finish with a good surface. When I did mine, it took about 10 sheets to find the best with no filled holes on the better surface and no bog required.
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
25 mm plywood for a desk ... what do you do with your desk park the car on it?
Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance
Confucius
Agree.
I just think they look better at 25mm.
Absolutely agree, though you could trim it with thinner ply before cutting it. I would go for a varnished finish and feature the ply edge.
Ah man, everyone is telling me 25mm.25 mm plywood for a desk ... what do you do with your desk park the car on it?
Yeah man, I saw it said different grades on the description too. One of the reasons I decided on it
Last edited by Triodz; 28th Sep 2017 at 11:36 PM. Reason: changed 5 to 25
Yes the ply edge is a must. The problem with trimming it is that unless you use A grade ply it will eventually go wavy.
My concern would be the exposed edges of the ply...are you going to use a solid timber edge?
I did 3 walls of a design studio in 18mm MDF. Once cut to suit I glued and screwed another strip about 70mm wide underneath the front edge. Then rounded over the top and bottom edge with the router. Couple of coats of tinted stain/varnish. Job done. In the corners used a few of the large steel brackets to support. Front edge supported on some Ikea legs where needed.
And.....your point is.....what exactly?
Well, I was going to use timber edge strap, but the ecoply I want to use is all in weird sizes! 17, 19, 21, 25mm - wtf? I only found one at bunnings that would fit any of them and it's 8mm thick! Might have to get a wider sheet of 3mm ply and cut it to size. Which will be a pain. Really wanted rounded edge, but not a terrible loss. MDF bothers me for some reason.
I just used the ply without an edge. Why hide the edge?
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
So far my exposure to ply has not been such that I trust an edge to not splinter...I agree, the exposed edge is a great feature, and if the ply is good, do it!
And.....your point is.....what exactly?
25mm plywood is way overkill as far as strength goes
How-ever design wise I like iteration #2 but I would put the supporting timbers under the joins in the ply and these can be on the flat and really only need to be 70*35 if that. Clear epoxy on the edges works to stop splintering
"A big boy did it and ran away"
Legal disclaimer denying responsibility to be inserted here.
Ours came from Bunnies: ECOply 2400 x 1200mm 25mm CD Structural Plywood. Current cost here is now $95.00
Prefer a solid desk than a toy drum desk
Those who want to ignore the science are increasingly alone. They are on their own shrinking island.
Sorry, mate, not sure what you mean by supporting timbers under the joins. Did you mean the battens to go right under the joins in addition to what is already there?
As for thickness, I might just go in between at 21mm CD Plywood on top and 18mm for everything else. Because I'm going to paint it, I am going to get some curved edging and plane the bottom level with the desk (there are none that are the right size already).
I really appreciate the feedback from everyone on this thread. It has been most helpful for me in working through to a solution and I've learned a few things along the way!
I think Moondog is suggesting that you support the full with of the but joins in the top. Just so there isn't any movement between the two pieces.
Design 2 is cool. have fun with the building.
Ah, thanks for that.
I'm starting to worry that the corner doesn't have enough support. I didn't really want to put a leg or desk-to-floor support if I could get away with it. I might use a hanger bracket and angle brackets for extra strength, and have the longest front edge batten recessed into the support where the computer tower is going to go.
Sorry if I wasn't clear enough
I actually think you have way too much supporting timber and could reduce it, also it helps if you show timber sizes and grading in the drawingsthere being a difference between a 35*79 MGP 7 and the same thing in F17 hardwood
You did say built in? In which case the rear batten is usually screwed to the studs in the wall
A bracket front edge to the floor should be more than strong enough and I would put 2 of these from the point where the 45 joins the others sections; others may think a single front edge to corner would be enough
"A big boy did it and ran away"
Legal disclaimer denying responsibility to be inserted here.
For anyone interested in how this turned out, have some pics! I'm pretty happy with it, but didn't bring the top of the cantilevers out far enough. Moondog suggested above that I bring it right out, but forgot by the time I got to it. Oh well, post-fixing it is! I also ran a piece a of ply under the longer sections for extra support. It's strong and looks great in my humble opinion! Happy to hear criticisms.
love your work bloke. nice finish on the edge. Enjoy
Really, really nice work... When I did my study I used a bunch of plastic retic saddles with one screw only in the bottom hole on the rail that runs along the back rail on the wall. That way I can drop in whatever cords are needed easily and keep 'em off the floor
And.....your point is.....what exactly?
Thanks mate, appreciate it! Nice to have validation from people I don't know. People you know tend to think they need to be kind, so I don't think you get a true critique.love your work bloke. nice finish on the edge. Enjoy
Thanks for that! That's actually my next challenge and you've given me some inspiration. I need to find something to hide the cables on top of the desk too. I was going to use the cable management spirals, but can't find them here in Bendigo. I could get them online I guess.
How many will be on top?
Really you should only have power to screens, and keyboard and mouse to tower.
Although Bluetooth KB&M are cheap and reliable enough...
And.....your point is.....what exactly?
I have wireless KB & M, but there are two monitors, a monitor switch to go between XBox and PC, and two sets of speakers with cables (one for PC and one for XBox). But I have an idea that I am going to work on later to hide it all and make it look nicer. I have a built in cupboard to build, then a workshed to put up, then two decks to build. You know - relaxing stuff.
Posting Permissions
