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Hills Hoist winding mechanism?

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  1. #1
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    Default Hills Hoist winding mechanism?

    Hi All!
    My much loved Hills Hoist has stopped winding - it's feeling very stuck.
    Anyone know where I can find a diagram of the winding mechanism before I try and take it apart?
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    China
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    It will almost certainly be the inner standard ( I think that is the name) the lower section rusts out after many years, you can buy a service kit from Hills Holdings, it comes with a diagram. I can't help where to buy one in Canberra. If you can't locate one pm me I live less than 10 mins from Hills.

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    Default Thanks

    Thanks China - that's a quick reply.
    Actually it seems the winding handle is just stuck. The top half of the hoist (the bit with the arms) will go up if I lift it, but then just comes back down again.
    I wound my hoist down for a small friend who was in need of a clothes line and now can't wind it back up.
    From research on the I'net i understand it's a crown and pinion mechanism, but not sure how the handle fits in, hence desire for a diagram!
    Best regards!

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    It just so happens that I recently obtained a hills hoist on freecycle and as I was taking it apart I took photos of the winding mechanism to make sure I put it back together in the right way. here they are:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails handle-cog.jpg   img_6641.jpg   img_6646.jpg  

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    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    If you look at Black Cat's first pic, to the left side of the crown wheel there is a rack (toothed rectangular section) which moves up or down depending on the rotation of the handle.

    On the top of this rack it will be dome shaped with a small hook in the end, this is where the top half of the clothes line is supported but still able to rotate, most times this has worn through the washer on the bottom of the top tube allowing the rack to slip inside rather than pushing/holding it up.

    We always just welded a car type shock absorber metal (domed ) washer in place where the old one had worn through....................good for another 30 years.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

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    Thank you for the photos, Black Cat. They are brilliant. Bedford, the upper post (with the arms) still goes up, and the winding handle will turn about 1/3 of a full turn (hoist goes up and down a little). It almost appears as though the handle is on an angle to where it should be and this jams it up. I don't want to force it, so, armed with Black Cat's photos, I'll lubricate the nuts holding the mechanism on and open it up tomorrow (in daylight).
    I'll report back!
    )

  7. #7
    China
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    Although it seems like the crown wheel, it will almost certainly not be the problem, as Black cat said it will be the worn through or rusted this will cause the mechanism to jam and give the false impresion that is is the gears

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    I can't ever see those gears wearing out - they're bigger than the spider gears in the diffs of Fords & Holdens, and would have a far easier life. Talk about Aussie over-engineering!

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    Quote Originally Posted by commodorenut View Post
    I can't ever see those gears wearing out - they're bigger than the spider gears in the diffs of Fords & Holdens, and would have a far easier life. Talk about Aussie over-engineering!
    They could possibly be old diffs from the wreckers, maybe Morris Minors, saved them a lot of money.

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    Default ... progress report here

    Hello All!
    Thanks for all your replies. I thought you might like to know what's been happening.
    I've taken it apart. Very little rust anywhere, this whole mechanism was so packed with grease - all quite black and with bits of twigs/leaf/grass in it. I've cleaned it all off and photographed the result. Can't figure out how to attach photos as this system asks for a URL and they're on my Desktop (I have a Mac).
    In any case, I've bought some grease and plan to put it all back together tomorrow. I'm thinking perhaps the small twigs and cobwebs might have jammed the handle...
    I'm now a greasy monkey!

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    Thanks Noel!
    Here they are then:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1400500.jpg   p1400501.jpg   p1400502.jpg   p1400503.jpg   p1400504.jpg  

    p1400505.jpg   p1400506.jpg   p1400507.jpg   p1400508.jpg  

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    Bedford, I think I understand what you mean now. I can't access the top of this rack, it's hidden by the top part of the pole. How do you get to it?

  14. #14
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    Looking at the last pic, you have an outer tube which is fixed when it's all bolted back together, and an inner piece that holds the actual movable top part of the clothes line.

    This inner piece is connected to the "rack", (the vertical moving bit).

    You should be able to pull the rack outwards from the outer tube, withdrawing the inner one with it until it will go no further i.e. in the normal down position.

    At this point you should be able to see the top of the rack (with a little hook) and the washer that wears out that I suspect is your problem.

    The whole weight of the clothes and movable part of the line sits on this piece, if that washer wears through, the rack slips inside the tube sometimes jamming and sometimes just passing through the worn washer resulting in no lifting ability.

    If possible, try and withdraw the rack and post a pic of the very top of the rack and the bottom of the piece it connects to.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

  15. #15
    China
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    If you have trouble removing the rack twist it left and right and it will work its way out

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    Hello Bedford and China
    I've been trying to get the rack out of the upper pole and am not having any luck.
    Which brings to mind - what happens once it's out? Will I be able to get it back in?
    I haven't cleaned this bit yet, but am attaching a photo. I notice a little tear in the metal at upper left of photo - is that what's causing the problem?
    Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1400510.jpg  

  17. #17
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    It's a bit hard to tell from the pic, but on the top of the outer tube there should be a corrugated looking piece that stops it rotating when the line is down.

    There should be a matching piece attached to the inner tube that also holds the 4 smaller cross pipes, if you were to loosen the lock bolt this will slide closer to the top with the outer tube, revealing where the rack attaches to the bottom of the inner tube.

    Once you get to this point the rack will need to be angled or twisted to get it out as China suggests.

    I would spray that locking bolt with WD40 and be careful not to break it, it's been there for 50 years, you're not going to loosen it 50 seconds.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hills-hoist-2.jpg  
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

  18. #18
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    Thanks Bedford.
    Looking at my picture below, you must mean the rusty bolt just above centre of the photo, not the screw to left and below centre?
    The corrugated looking piece is apparently called the "wind brake". (I appear to be getting a degree in Hills Hoistery...)
    Good advice re the WD40... I'll have to get some. My neighbour may have it. Would sewing machine oil work?
    I've been learning about grub screws today too - on a prototype violin collarbone rest.
    I expect an overnight soaking of that bolt will maybe give me some success tomorrow.
    Thanks again!
    http://www.renovateforum.com/attachm...1&d=1290495777
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1400522.jpg  

  19. #19
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    Yes it's the top bolt, WD40 would penetrate better than sewing machine oil I think.

    It could be very stubborn, so I would soak it a while, then a couple of gentle ish taps squarely on the head of the bolt with a hammer, a bit more WD40, then carefully try to wind it out anti clockwise.

    It will probably only need a couple of turns as it's only clamping to the tube, not going right through.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

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    OK - I've managed to beg some WD40 from my neighbour and applied it. When I've loosened that bolt should I also be loosening the 8 wires connecting the very top post of the HH, to the four arms? http://www.renovateforum.com/attachm...1&d=1290500430
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1400511.jpg  

  21. #21
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    It will probably "give" enough that you won't have to disconnect the wires, it usually doesn't have to move up much before it will allow access to the bottom where the rack connects.

    It wouldn't hurt to spray the 4 bolts holding the wires at the very top in case you do have to remove them.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

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    OK - that'll be tomorrow. The rusty bolt did a few turns, but as it was just after 8PM I thought it better to wait for daylight.

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    OK... I've taken the rusty bolt off, had to remove the other screws holding the support wires, but the whole thing is off and the rack is out (ouch, toe!).
    These are the bolts, screws, plastic washer and top of the rack, and the bottom of the inside pole:
    http://www.renovateforum.com/attachm...1&d=1290549131
    It seems OK to me... is it now a matter of greasing everything and putting it back together?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1400525.jpg   p1400526.jpg  
    Last edited by HandyAnnie; 25th Nov 2010 at 09:56 AM. Reason: incomplete

  24. #24
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    Oh yes, in post #16 it looked like there was a smal tear in the metal - I can only think that it must have been an illusion... maybe a dirty grease chunk...
    Once I got it cleaned up, the washer in post #23 looks rather shiny and bright.
    There was so much grease on everything that I can't imagine how it could rust in Canberra's dry climate.
    I also want to thank you all for your information and help! )

  25. #25
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    With the second pic, I take it that is the bottom of the inner piece, the hole in it looks a bit ragged as if the rack might have gone up through it.

    Can you take a pic of the two pieces with the hook on the rack entering that second pic, I want to be sure that the rack does NOT fit through that hole.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

  26. #26
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    Hi Bedford
    You're right - that is the bottom piece. It's the same view as picture in post #16, but minus the rack. The plastic domed washer fits in between the metal of the inside pole and the actual rack. Guaranteed the rack doesn't go through the hole (but I'll go and photograph it).
    Back in 5...

  27. #27
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    Here it is:
    http://www.renovateforum.com/attachm...1&d=1290553031
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1400530.jpg  

  28. #28
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    OK that's good, at this point I can see nothing that would stop it working.

    I would now re assemble it, lightly greasing the gears and rack and also where the horizontal shafted gear goes through the housing where the handle attaches.

    I hope it goes OK now, and congratulations for working through it.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

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    Yippee!
    I'll get stuck into it then!

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    Default ALL SWELL THAT ENDS http://www.renovateforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8190WELL

    Success - and thanks again!
    Bedford - the beer will have to be a virtual one, but my shout! (My mother reckons you deserve at least three!)
    http://www.renovateforum.com/images/...ndard/wink.gif
    The hardest part was lining up the rack to fit into its supporting mechanism, and then re-attaching the casing.
    Such a relief - and even better: the winding mechanism is working perfectly!
    http://www.renovateforum.com/attachm...1&d=1290580500
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1400531.jpg  
    Last edited by HandyAnnie; 26th Nov 2010 at 07:38 AM. Reason: additional info

  31. #31
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    Something for you to print out and frame and brag about.
    Well Done!!


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    Thanks Noel, I'll treasure this award!
    Two of my three cats love sitting on the hoist - the laundry cats. They're also happy it's working again.
    http://www.renovateforum.com/attachm...1&d=1290583554
    http://www.renovateforum.com/attachm...1&d=1290583554
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ellie-helps-laundry-2-spungis.jpg   sylvie.jpg  

  33. #33
    China
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    Great job good that it just needed some TLC they normaly need parts

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    Excellent work - and now i have instructions I can follow when I start re-assembling mine! Well done annie!!

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    I guess this one being in good shape is an endorsement for LOTS of grease...
    I was balancing Bedford's advice of "lightly greasing the gears and rack" and the memory of the gobs of grease which have probably helped keep it in good shape.
    I really appreciate the design and the "over-engineeredness" of it all!
    And I'm so happy to have it functioning well (thanks again for all help!). I haven't been able to wash much since completing the rebuild, as we're having so much rain, but the garden is enjoying it!
    And did you see my award? )

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    Hi,

    Thanks to the group for letting me join.

    I was viewing this thread as I have woes of my own with the same line.

    Our one has rusted out the pole, about 18" above the ground, and broken.

    I had and idea to simply sleeve the two sections of pipe with a slightly larger diameter pipe, but alas, cannot find a slightly larger pole to sleeve them.

    My second idea was to simply remove the bottom section of the pole, and replace with another, but that area became difficult when I noted the screw section within the lower section of the pole...I needed to remove that, and then sit it on another pole, so I thought, but could not work out how to get that screw type/ hook thingo out. From reading here, it seems I need to twist it, and use some brute strength?

    Before I do all this, is there something else easier I should be thinking about.

    We thought just taking out the bottom pole and replacing that section, with the known inability that it would no longer wind up/down, but that didn't bother us too much.

    Your worthwhile thoughts anyone?

  37. #37
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozviewer1 View Post
    Before I do all this, is there something else easier I should be thinking about.

    We thought just taking out the bottom pole and replacing that section, with the known inability that it would no longer wind up/down, but that didn't bother us too much.
    Cut the bottom pipe off about 6 inches below the gearbox, (without cutting the internal gear shaft ) and weld a new pipe on. There will be a pipe size close enough to be welded, spray the weld with a pressure pack can of cold galvanizing, and then concrete it back in.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

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    Hi,
    Thanks for the reply.

    I did think of that, however, do not have a welder, or a friend that knows how to use one either.

    Good idea but!

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    Hi again,

    Just to report, that all is now good.

    If it were not for this forum, the photo's and the wisdom of those involved, I'd still be scratching my head.

    We finally removed the rack/gear from the inner of the pole...certainly needs some good twisting action to do that!

    With that out, we removed the outer pipes, procured another length of tubing, and slid that over the existinting 1 meter section that is fixed to the top section of the line.

    We cut the new tubing to size, dug a new hole, and put in the cut pipe into a new hole. We then picked up the clothes line and positioned it above the new pole, and slipped the line and it's fixed section ( minus rack) into the new pipe, and all is well. We were not worried about being able to raise or lower it with the winder, so all was easy.

    Thank you to those that posted within this thread, as this made sense, once we started attacking it.

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    Hello All
    I had a private message to thank me for the photos, so I've just revisited my old thread - I'm so glad that it's been a help (that was my intention and motivation for all the photos).
    Thanks again to all the expert renovators who held my hand through this. Our hoist is still working well - I hope to be able to say that for many years more!
    Kind regards
    Handy Annie

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    Someone directed me to this thread and I've read all the way through.

    My problem is all I want to do is remove the rotating part as I will be cutting down a tree close to the clothes line and I don't want to damage it.
    How do I do this?

    Do I loosen the grub nut; raise the cross casting which will expose the top of the rack; then unhook the rotating part from the rack?
    Or have I got it wrong?

  42. #42
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    Probably the easiest way would be to loosen all the bolts on the gear box, lever it apart slightly, ( as there is a dowel cast into the housing that locates in the lower pipe ) then lift the lot off.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

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    I'll give that a try.

    Cheers

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    Thanks Bedford

    Had problems with frozen nuts around the gear box (boy, I worded that badly).
    Once I freed the nuts and removed the gear box, the complete top half of the hoist simply lifted off (bit of a handful, but I managed).
    The locating dowel has sheared off, as the gearbox tends to rotate around the pipe when trying to wind the hoist up.
    However, when I cleaned it all up and re-assembled everything, the gearbox seems content to stay in one place.

    Thanks for the help.

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    Default weld the stabiliser plug?

    hi all, great thread, I've found it very helpful.

    My Hills hoist seemed to have a completely worn away stabiliser plug - the conical bit that sits on top of the rack, and attaches to the inner standard. I've pulled it to bits with the help of the info here.

    I bought the service kit from Hills, which includes a new stabiliser plug. The instructions say to tack weld it to the inner standard in three places. Is that really necessary, welding isn't something I know how to do yet. Would the stabiliser plug be kept in place well enough just by the main standard around it?

    thanks!

  46. #46
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    G'day, can you post some pics of the parts you mean, I'm not sure what you're referring to.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

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    Thanks for answering, and sure. Here is a pic of the bottom of the inside pole, with whats left of the stabiliser plug on it:
    img_20130103_180707.jpg

    here's the new stabiliser plug, and the new conical nylon washer.
    img_20130103_210934.jpg

    The instructions say to hacksaw off the remnants of the old stabiliser plug, stick the new one on, and tack weld it around the edge. On page 2 and 5.

  48. #48
    The Master's Apprentice Bedford's Avatar
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    It should be welded as it can pull off the pole as it's also used to pull the pole down if it binds at all.

    Also it will hold the top of the clothesline down in the (unlikely) event of it being caught by wind and being lifted out.
    Posted by John2b, And no, BEVs are not going to save the planet, which doesn't need saving anyway.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bedford View Post
    It should be welded as it can pull off the pole as it's also used to pull the pole down if it binds at all.

    Also it will hold the top of the clothesline down in the (unlikely) event of it being caught by wind and being lifted out.
    Thanks for the advice. With help from my dad and a mallet I was able to remove the top floating pole, and took it and the new stabiliser plug to a welding shop in fyshwick (Squig's). He did a great, quick job, and now its all re-assembled.

    I now have the rest of the "service kit": a cast aluminium rack piece, the rack guide that stops the rack spinning, two plastic cogwheels, the handle attachment cover and screw. I kept the original cast iron rack and steel cogs as they seemed fine, and probably better really than the replacement plastic bits. The new rack has a different thread than the original, so you have to use the new rack and cogs all together. Anyway if anyone wants those let me know.

  50. #50
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    Default so cool!

    My Hills Hoist is still working well... and i'm absolutely thrilled that my photos have been a help to so many.
    And thank you Bedford, for continuing to provide such wonderful advice for those of us who need it!

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