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recommend a good house alarm i can network

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  1. #1
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    Default recommend a good house alarm i can network

    im after a house alarm that has remote access via internet. looking under $1000. wired, not wireless sensors.

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  3. #3
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    shoulda mentioned i need one with atleast 12 zones as 6 might do half the house.

  4. #4
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    ultimately depends on what you mean by "internet access".

    i use a system from Paradox (www.paradox.ca), a canadian company. the 'winfast' software allows you to change anything on it. certainly possible to VPN in and/or remote-desktop to a PC inside attached to the alarm with USB to enable/disable/reprogramme etc.

    they have modules for serial, usb or printer-out that you can use to 'log' events to, and could use that for whatever you want. i use their GSM module to receive alerts.

    not sure if it will meet your price. the one i have is about 7 years old now, self installed and was around $1K for 12 zones of digital "pet" PIRs, couple of keypads, screamers, extra inputs, output relays, siren/strobe, battery, box plus numerous reed switches.
    the bugger was installing it all, i think i've wasted days of my life on it - but an awesome system, i have it hooked up to smoke sensors too (powering via 12V battery as well as into the alarm panel for monitoring).

    i've done numerous other things with it too, e.g. use a separate partition for "front yard", have it hooked up to front gate for chime, have it hooked up to a relay for front low voltage garden lights at night (on moment/front gate status change).
    incredibly flexible but not for the faint of heart.

    not sure who would sell it to you in Aus though. Security Merchants are the distributors i think.

  5. #5
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    Any particular reason for needing a panel with IP? There are many half decent PSTN alarm panels out there and can be remotely accessed via pc connected to the panel as mentioned above. Popular ones include Bosch, Tecom/Concept and DAS NX. I have installed some panels before and the only decent IP one i've put in is a Protege panel. This is more suited to commercial/industrial applications rather then domestic as it is overkill.

  6. #6
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    its probably overkill i agree, but i like high tec stuff i can program myself by computer in remote locations.
    give me some other good ones that i can program locally and can dial into to arm/disarm from a mobile phone or something.

  7. #7
    Old Chippy 6K
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    Dunno why you'd bother. If you are so far away anyone breaking in will be long gone with whatever they want buy the time you can do anything about it. Police - if they come - will take 20-30mins.

    Best alarm is in fact none - just install the alarm & blue light box on the outside of the house with plenty of signage indicating the house has security system installed. Most burglaries are opportunistic and if they have a choice between your place that seems to have security system and the neighbour who doesn't - they'll go next door.

    Back to base is waste of time for the same reason as any remote access one as you describe - most break & enters are for quick cash or easily saleable goods and most burglars are in and out in under 20 mins generally under 15 if there is an alarm. By the time any response is activated it's too late. And do you really want to go home to confront someone who has broken in?

    If you do want an alarm then save your money on any fancy stuff - you can have zones etc, but what you really need is the loudest screamers/ shriekers inside you can get and a few well-placed movement sensors. And put a sensor or two in the roof space maybe a screamer too - some clever burglars think that's an easy way in (it is - slide up a tile or two and in you hop - few houses have the roof access hole locked). You do not need a siren outside no-one take any notice of them anyway - they just annoy the neighbours when they go off on a false alarm (and they will!). You still need the white box and blue light (it doesn't need to have an actual light) as a deterrent - no need to run wires to it.

    Anyone who breaks into a house will be tense and have high adrenaline and cortisol levels - if as soon as they move inside a screamer or two goes off they will not stay inside very long. Humans cannot stand 123-127 dB for very long and after a short time will suffer permanent ear damage and noise at that level is very disruptive to human thought. The burglars will leave very quickly.

    So spend $100 if you want, but for under $300 you can all the security you need (if you DIY install). For under $120 you can get all the deterrence you need. All assuming you already have secure doors and windows of course - not much point if you haven't physically secured the house.

    Just my view that makes sense to me - supported by some copper mates (and the deterrence only option is what I have had in my place since I was burgled in 1998 - none since, but that might be coincidence and good luck).

  8. #8
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    yeah your right, in my current house i have an internal screamer in every room just inside the airconditioning duct so its invisible unless you really look hard and when the alarm goes off it is absolutely deafening.
    the outside siren is small and not all that noisy but tolerable to neighbours if it does go off.
    i also have a decent security doors with triple locking, 3 hinges with hell long screws and have that scotchguard stuff on the windows making it alot harder to gain access through the windows and the windows only open 9 inches due to my mechanical bloking of their travel.
    you could say that my house is a bit of a death trap in a fire depending where the fire is.
    as for movement detectors in the roof, i have thought of it but the operating range of them would be exceeded quite regularly and probably have alot of falses due to pests etc..

  9. #9
    Old Chippy 6K
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    Quote Originally Posted by wozzzzza View Post
    you could say that my house is a bit of a death trap in a fire depending where the fire is.
    You probably already know, but no doors should be deadlocked by key from the inside while people are in the house - especially if they are sleeping and even if the key is left in the lock. In fire the first thing to do is drop to the floor and move about as fast as you can on the floor as smoke will tend to stay higher. Visibility drops rapidly so even if you get to the door or window your ability to find the lock & key unlock it then open the door can be greatly impaired.

    Not so critical with windows although in the rooms you sleep in they should not be deadlocked at night either - and I mean deadlocked ie with a key, not just a lever or push-botton lock. Same goes for security doors. I have seen people have the main door deadlocked as well as the security door - in a fire they will be in diabolical trouble - especially as many are aged and infirm. The point of deadlocking is security, but when the security threat is from fire or smoke from inside you need to be able to exit rapidly - often in pitch black and with your heart rate through the roof.

    Newer deadlocks mostly have release mechanisms that mean you can quickly and safely exit, but the lock is deadlatched from the outside so burglars cannot get in.


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