Sequence of renovations Hello,
We have recently purchased a home and are looking to do some renovations. We were hoping to get some advice on the most logical sequence to do the following... This will help lots with prioritising work (some we'll do our self, others we'll get people in). I've had a go at the most appropriate sequence, but would certainly like to hear your thoughts and advice!
Many thanks in advance!
Bedrooms
1 Install additional power-points and Ethernet/network ports
2 Replace built-in wardrobes in bedrooms (currently open in/out and want to move to sliding doors)
3 Paint walls and roof
4 Put down new carpet
5 Replace light fittings
Kitchen
1 Replace existing window in the kitchen with a bifold one
2 Install new kitchen (except kickboards)
3 Install floating floor boards (on-top of existing concrete slab or the tiles currently there already) and complete installation of kick-boards in kitchen
5 Paint walls and roof
6 Replace light fittings
Lounge Room
1 Knock down some walls then plaster
2 Install additional power-points and Ethernet/network ports
3 Change windows on offset-angle of cathedral ceiling (currently these are sealed, we want to move to windows that can open)
4 Paint walls and roof and strip paint from exposed wooden beams of ceiling
5 Install floating floor boards
6 Replace light fittings
Looks like you have it in pretty good order. The only one that some might do differently is having the floor go under the kitchen cabinets in case of layout change down the track.
Add to list - determine if walls being removed are/not load bearing and/or have bracing. Then proceed accordingly.
but I'd be living there for a while before doing too much - you'll be surprised how your views can change of what might be important, what works and what doesn't and which order is best.
And on wardrobe doors - sliding doors seem good as they do not intrude into the room, but they have a flaw - you can only have one side accessible at a time whereas with swing doors both can be open - or if all if there are more than two. If room space really is a premium then sliders might make sense, but IMO (and SWMBO) regular doors are much more useful.
As to hardwiring of network ports - why? With ADSL2 and a decent wireless router (and extender/amplifier or daughter router if needed) you can use the internet, stream video and audio manage your phone services (VOIP) anywhere in your building and outside too. With NBN you will get fibre to the house and you might then want to move to optical links for a couple of internal points - if access is easy then CAT6 now is OK, but run CAT6a if you really must, and if you do make sure all the connectors and all other components too are CAT6 rated. I'd be staying wireless for a little while anyway. But maybe you are mad gamers . . . so feel the need for speed
Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.
Good call that. As an example, yesterday a new fridge was delivered and because the fridge space was tight, it ended up not fitting, due to a severely uneven floor. The back left edge of the fridge wouldn't fit under the cabinet above. I could have made the fridge space bigger in the first place and then not limited my choices when the time came to replace existing fridge but I chose not to and now regret it. Had to send fridge back and get shorter one. My kitchen space is pretty small and I wanted to maximise the use but in this case it's now very limiting.Originally Posted by Bloss
network ports Live for the now, wire for the future I say - you wont regret it
On the issue of network ports - I have a study upstairs with broadband cable modem and wireless router - but have hard wired either cat 5e or cat 6 cable to every TV and don't regret it. I have an unmanaged gigabit (10/100/1000) switch behind the lounge TV that handles the Foxtel, TV, Surround Sound, Blu-ray etc. Because mixture of wired and wireless, my iphone app lets me manage the yamaha surround sound (Rx-A1000) from anywhere in the house.
Each TV has an ethernet port and with the new TVs they can access the computers windows 7 media servers (DLNA). I have also set up the ReadyNAS nv+ (Network Data Storage device) as a media server and keep movies on it so I have a vast catalog available to each TV. You would struggle to do this with wireless and it is less expensive to run a bit of cable - however I did not do it with outlets - I just bring the cable out through the wall either through a light switch with the switch part removed or a proper bull nose cable outlet straight to the device. Everything is cunningly hidden so you don't see any blue cable.
Ethernet in bedrooms - unless you are wiring in a TV (As above) - most computers used in bedrooms are wireless laptops these days and with 802.11n can easily run 3MB/s which is fast enough for all but the mega gamers.
Of more importance is putting in wiring for your surround sound - make sure you have speaker cables running to the correct locations. I have heard people saying about different quality speaker wire that costs a fortune and is gold plated etc - but I think it is all crap, I just used #8 speaker wire and it works fine. You will be surprised how much you need of it - for a small lounge room with 2 external zones (for the spa and courtyard) I went through an entire 100m roll.
For wiring - have a look at OzCableguy.com He is Australian and very helpful and if you whack him an email, from experience, he does get back to you but it may take a while.
And if you are really keen - wire for the eventual projector - you will need as minimum Cat 6, Power and HDMI to that point. Put it in the ceiling and leave it until you are ready.
And you can never have too many power points. I also have to agree with the live in the house for a while to see how it all is going to fit and work.
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