Cecile

Here are some quick pix of the work in progress. Just in case there was any interest I'm spending a good bit of time waiting for glue to dry so I can turn the box over to do the MDF adjunct panels. Another trip to the Big Green Shed for even more 42*19s tomorrow

In the shed. This is the size it needs to be to give deep bass from this cheap Pro driver without that horrible peaky "BOOM" Here's a link to the driver in question...

I wound up buying the steel brackets. I am using them as clamping guides while the Titebond sets. I started with the top end and can't put the sides on yet

If the box design works as per the simulation I'd glue MDF panels to the chipboard internally, I have some long narrow scraps of stuff here. I'd not loose too much volume using 6mm MDF. It is more a design test than a real box at this stage. If the brackets won't add much I'll save the money and use it to buy more PVA. Here's a picture of the first test box made up from all the scraps in the shed with a graph of the simulated response. As made it's a one note DOOF-DOOF sub and not what I...

What the fellers say but I'd pack it out by 20mm or so and add some RFL or thin Foilboard. Most Australian houses have insufficient insulation and I think every little bit helps. Alternatively do what I'm not allowed to do and make it a feature with lots of odds & sods of tile discards etc

Just an idle thought here, one I had when I did the foilboard on my shed roof. It doesn't need to be the same depth as the framing tophat. Go the next size down so it can slide in more easily and don't worry too much about the sag. Or don't use plaster either; use Foilboard for the light weight and the reflective qualities that help with lighting

It's not a myth for one particular regiment of Ghurkas apparently, but I guess not true in general usage. Way back I had a boss who was a Captain of Ghurkas during the Korean war and he assured me that it was true of his mob. An uncle who was in Korea at the same time said similar but I personally have no connections so I'm guessing part myth part true. I've met one Ex-Ghurka but I never thought to ask him. I can tell you this much tho, it doesn't take much to draw blood these things are so...

If you mean getting what you pay for I do in general. I'm not a metal worker or cutler so buying a throwaway tool to do one job makes sense in this instance. Now if I wanted to make knives as a hobby or a business then spending several thousands on real tools would make sense

Many thanx Whitey I just looked at some better Linishing machines and for the two zeros fewer in the price tag I may just have to get the cheap belt sander from Aldi

If it's proving difficult why not put the access door internal? We have such an access panel here although now covered up by laminate flooring. Width of the passageway and the spacing of the floor joists

I'd simply use rigid insulation board directly. I used 10mm Foilboard because that's what we had. If I was doing it from scratch and had no building wrap beneath the steel sheeting I would pay the extra money and use 25mm and install some effective roof mounted venting at the gable. Does the concrete floor have a vapour barrier under all of it? If not and the equipment is both sensitive and delicate you may need to address that issue at the same time, so it pays to double check that before...

What is the original wall surface material - it looks like some sort of render.

Filler rod and silicon?

It is however the law in this country, whether we agree with it or not. You could go to your local TAFE and buy the book for first year apprentices, tell them it's for you son or younger brother if they ask, but they usually don't.

I'll open up the IO and put my hand in to check if there are any leaves or other muck blocking the pipe, it is a couple of years since I put a hose down that last section of the storm drain. It was clear last time I checked and I did think that the roofer we had here last month had checked that already.

There was a reason I didn't do that when I redid the storm water. The council concrete footpath seemed to be poured in contact with the concrete storm water drain pipe. Ten years on and my back is totally buggered and I simply can't do that sort of work any more. In the short term I'll try the relief vent idea, in the long term I'll be dead and it will become some other persons problem