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How to fit a cap using rocket science Fit tap washer inside cap and screw into place, no sealant/thread seal required or use a compression nut and insert a jumper valve ditto above

4" is house drain,6" clay pipe will be the main sewer belonging to the council/water authority so when they find what you have done you will get your @@@@ kicked + you will be charged to make good what you have stuffed up and no one in their right mind would try to place pvc inside clay because the internal dia of both 6" and 4" pvc is exactly the same as the clay pipe.

You will always find water under concrete tiles due in part to the porosity of the concrete tile itself, and also cracks in the tiles. Best thing to do if you are ok climbing on the roof, is get in the ceiling with some zip ties when it is raining and poke a zip tie out under any crook tile you see, then when the roof is dry climb up and remove the offending tile and see if it is a clip (cannot see any clips in the pics) or maybe dust/twigs/leaf/chipped tile etc. If the tile is...

It is good they have 7 year warranty so just keep hitting them up for replacements. If their statement a on high pressure held any water, excuse the pun, I believe they would have sent their own plumber to investigate by now.

I think you are doing well to have them replaced for free after 12 months unless their warranty is longer, but the fact they have failed in more than one spot makes me think it is a quality problem. I would hazard at a guess the construction is alloy based materials not brass or stainless, and these alloy based powder coated products can be troublesome as you have found. I think you will find the bulging is being caused by corrosion and or maybe the construction is too thin. Problems...

May also depend on how you run your shower. Rule of thumb is turn hot on to full flow ( or at least good flow) then bring cold in to temper it to the required heat/cool range which usually means a small amount of cold supply. If the pressure/flow is so great you are splitting shower heads then there should be problems with mixers as well because there is a requirement for maximum pressure to mixers.(don't remember what it is maybe 500 kpa but don't quote me) As above, may be time to get...

Then be prepared to maybe one day have to pull it down and remove the slab. Of course should someone know what you have done and complain then Council will have no choice but to issue a demolition order. Good chance Council will never have to dig in the area because today's technology means any repairs to the drain would be done internally, unless they need to upgrade the drain to carry more flow. Your risk, your call.

You need to check with Council. You may find it is a drainage easement and that portion of land cannot be built on. If you get the go ahead you will probably have to pier each side of the drain to spread the weight.

Hmmm, did not take all that much notice of the post but I see the water is already done, so that explains why Plumbers may not be interested as they have to certify the total job which means they have to be responsible for the water as well. Think about it, Plumber connects the toilet, you sell the house, water starts leaking in the wall, and Plumber is up for cost of repairs for something he did not do. Good luck finding someone to come into that.

There are cover plates as you call them, referred to in Qld as flanges, which come in flat and more than one type of raised, and there are also escutcheon rings which are larger in dia to allow the shower or flange to sit neatly inside the ring. And if you cut the nipple then find the thread is not long enough for the next shower, then you extend it. But I do understand that sounds a bit like too hard for you southern people.:U Nighty nite boys and girls.

You have likely picked a Plumbing business which has enough work and does not want to waste their valuable time quoting such a small job. Any Tom Dick or Harry can dig a hole in their own yard and expose a sewer pipe without fear of retribution. So just call around a few Plumbers and forget the emails asking for quotes, use the phone and call their direct mobile and see how you go. If I was still in business I would ignore most emails/messages requesting quotes unless they were just around...

You can, they are called escutcheon rings and they look like someone was too lazy to cut the thread.

Why change cladding ? Spray it once a year with wet and forget.

Do you think it is hot air from all the forums ??

(1) You might get the one in a million threaded elbow so if you wish to take the gamble by all means do so. (2) Correct as I said above in #2 but no guarantee you will get it right, just have to do test fit without thread tape as it is one of those things learnt by trial and error as in trial ( that worked well) and error ( oh krap cracked a tile) and after cutting with hacksaw you may need a die block to run over the thread again. I still have a couple of die blocks but last time I was...

If the water in the kerb is up to or above the top of kerb, that will cause a considerable slow down in flow of the drain. Also if the drains were laid then run over by machines/cars/trucks etc ditto above. Brushes ??? will also cause a slow down in flow. As for gutter cleaning I have seen 4 pine needles block a drop/pop to the extent the gutter overflows.

1 Downpipe drops/pops are not good at getting rid of water in a hurry. 2 Hail being ice blocks the drops/pops and fills the gutter so the water has nowhere to go but over the side. 3 Looks like the drains are not capable of taking the flow you got, that is if the drain in the video actually goes anywhere,but I have seen 450 mm dia drains back up in downpours. Friends further up the coast have downpipes which go into the sand and gush out every time it rains. Does not say much for building...

Use the hacksaw, do NOT attempt to remove the wall fitting, it is part of the inwall plumbing.

CLR did nothing for me to the point I got a refund. Better product I found is Power Force Pro Rust Lime and Calcium Remover. Getting the water out of the pan is easy with a sponge.

Light wet and dry sand paper.

How bout a timber fix hex head roof screw May have to drill a small hole to stop the leg splitting and maybe sone glue as well.

Without a doubt Not necessarily rebar (Y12 twist bar) but certainly trench mesh in 8mm 4 bar, although the 4 bar is 300mm wide so in your case probably 3 bar will suffice. I personally would use 2 layers which may sound like overkill but you don't want it cracking, so 4 sheets at 6 metres long is not going to break the bank. https://www.arcreo.com.au/product/trench-mesh

Obvious by the water drips off the fascia

Use an iron (for ironing clothes) to remove the existing laminate. (it melts the glue) Sand both surfaces preferably with an orbital sander,before attempting to reglue using a good contact glue making sure the glue is evenly spread, and wait until the glue is dry before putting the 2 surfaces together. Weight the laminate or using timber and clamps, clamp it so it cannot come apart HOWEVER make sure the laminate is fitted from the outer edge and there are no air bubbles under it.