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Thanks Bart. Where Bart shows, you need a secret gutter under the tiles to stop water getting into the soffit where the tiles meet the new fascia/barge capping.

Unbelievable they left it like that. I did a few roofs like that years ago and always did the complete job although I do remember the bil getting me to do ALL the tiles AND metal flashing after he had a carpenter fit a metal roof same as your's, and the roof was corro which did not suit the pitch, but that's what you get when carpenters are allowed to install roofing that they have never been trained for. . If you can do the finish yourself do so and just use mortar mix. Something like...

I believe with any forum there is a massive amount of information now available, so a quick search usually gets the answer to most questions, and I have noticed over the years people come onto the forum and ask a few questions then 12 months down the track the same people are here giving advice.

(1) Silicone is NOT a waterproofer. It is put there simply for expansion contraction (2) Best idea yet cause my money is on the waterproofing under the tiling, which may have been compromised by movement. (3) See (2) but by all means remove the shower rose and cap off to test the water supply from the taps up. edit.. Just had a look at the vanity pic and noticed the shower screen is where the shower head is directed so the vanith may be sucking up water from under the tile as it looks...

I very much doubt plastering over wall paper is going to work or look much. I had to infill a pet opening in a door here so rather than spend over $200 on a new odd size door I simply infilled it with a piece from a door I had laying around and ran a dead around it. Other than that you can always hang a large pic over it.

We are booked in for this thursday but after reading this https://www.perthnow.com.au/news/coronavirus/health-authorities-investigate-after-wa-woman-develops-large-scale-bruising-after-covid-19-jab-ng-b881867249z we are cancelling from today for a month to see what else comes along. And before you all start telling me we are wooses consider this, my partner needs to consult with the doctor first ( for what good he is considering he tells everyone the risks are same as winning lotto, have you...

It is 1 am, the fan is going full bore cause when you went to bed it was 32 degrees but it has cooled to 9 degrees cause it is raining so you go to turn the fan off and the remote battery is flat and you don't have a spare battery and it is raining heavy and the switchboard is outside in the rain, how do you switch the fan off ? Ha Ha

Common sense tells me switched. Mine is.

You have one circuit off so it is simple enough to walk through the house seeing what is working and what is not on the other circuit. If you have to, use a hair dryer/drill/ or an electric tool/appliance of your choosing then, write down what is working to that circuit. Just plug the dryer/tool in already switched on and turn on the power point, but use common sense, don't plug in a power saw with the blade uncovered and watch it scoot across your floor. If it works then go to the next...

Possibly on the bottom batten drilling would be good, but today's timber fix roof screws are usually good to go into old battens provided the fixing tool/driver has enough grunt. I have only ever used a Makita 750 w electric drill for roofing. Probably not allowed to use 240 power on a roof these days, and I must admit to dragging leads across a roof and hearing zzzzz behind me as the lead was stabbed by a sharp bit of iron. With regards to soap, are you not old enough to remember carpenters...

AC = Asbestos Cement fwiw no biggie. As I said, biggest concern is the blade slipping off the screw head because then it is usually a situation where you have to use vice grips/locking pliers which really is not all that bad because when they break they usually break on the thread at the batten, in fact in the 70's we would actually knock them side to side to break them rather than unscrew them. If you are intending to replace the AC with metal roofing I would not be concerned with the screws...

You have not given enough info in that you don't say what the roof sheeting is, but no matter what you use, if the screws are going to break they will break. If the sheeting is ac the screws will probably come out ok being steel, but if the roofing is alloy then the screws will be same and won't be very strong. Having said that, the holes would have been pre drilled so you may be ok because hardwood shrinks away from the screw. What you use is up to you because using mechanical drills etc...

This forum is predominately Australian and in Au the clear outs are there so they can be accessed should the need arise.

(1) You don't have enough room at 140 mm to use a waste + cap and lining and elbow so cutting the floor is best (2) Shut the door to the area and use a fan to blow dust out the window (3) Do it right do it once (4) I never said that (5) Cause someone started it to make money. The forum is not here to condone dodgy work (6) and designed by people to shortcut and make or save money just like you want to do Cut the floor and use a trap as it should be done. No tradesman will condone...

No and yes

This is a common problem when fitting new taps See if the breech will pull out of the wall slightly to enable you to fit the cold flange without the flange extender Put the flange in place then fit the handle to allow you to ease it out of the wall a little. If you can get the flange to hold by one or two threads it should be ok as long as the handle does not bind on the flange I had to do this on Monday for the very same reason as you have found, the breech was never installed correctly. ...

+1 for jig saw, but make sure there are no wires pipes etc in the cutting area.

If's and but's in your question. Will the present board AND installation (semi rural) carry the extra load ? Is 10 metres underground or temporary above ground ? as in who does the digging ? Is the install to be run in conduit on the metal frame or is the container framed up ? How far does the sparkie have to travel ?

Yes, the older style were much better and may be still available at Plumbing Supplies, although I note Reece have the same fittings at $11 as Bunnies at $6. The fittings are designed as you mentioned for fitting into the brick / block, and are/were silver solder fittings which required oxy. And any pipes in block work/brick work/cement must be insulated to avoid corrosion of the pipes and cracking of surfaces through expansion contraction.

In the 60's they were called wizzbangs but in today's PC world they are winged connectors. https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=winged%20connector&sort=BoostOrder&page=1