cyclic

I'm surprised you have had trouble with insurance, after all the policy should have a clause somewhere stating cover for bursting or leaking appurtenances. I have never honestly heard of a slow leak not being covered. Love to know who the insurer is so I don't go near them. As for the kicks I don't see a problem just replacing the kicks but it will be very labour intensive and somewhat awkward cutting to suit the floor, and of course cabinet makers make more money doing full kitchens...

That is not cracking, it's crazing due to either faulty tiles or glue problems. I suggest you get the supplier to look or take some pics to them.

As above, not ideal but you are stuck with it. You are not going to change the slab so something like a T Rex or Sika product will go a long way to seal the aly to the concrete. Talk to the suppliers about which one. Not sure what you will do at the doorway though. Wire brush the concrete first.

Hmmm, 35 mm across could easy be 3/4" or 1" considering today's 1/2 " and 3/4" bsp measure close to 27mm across. Easiest way is remove the tap carefully so as not to dislodge the socket from the tank (usually soldered to the tank) then using something like a 5mm wide screw driver and hammer, tap at the corrosion inside the socket (caused due to brass tank tap inside gal socket) to clean it out then use a stick and rag to plug the supply while you take the old tap with you to get a new one.

Gees don't know where that came from but as usual I will continue to try to assist anyone on here. FWIW you don't have to buy 500 metres, you or your sparky can simply contact a supplier with your requirements (140 metres) and they will arrange to supply that amount through their supplier, however a cutting fee will most likely apply. At #14 you mention 16mm tps ??...No one has mentioned that here so not sure where you got that from. Good luck with your project.

Last option ,drain to a pump well

My permission ??????????????????? I'm just trying to save you from yourself and quite often people come on here first time and ask electrical questions simply so they can do the work themselves.:no: It's not important to me either way who does it From my experience 600 is the minimum cover requirement so 700 gives ample cover whereas a 600 trench does not give the required cover

Yea but you are working on the base of the kerb not top of footpath so can you drain further down the kerb ? to get fall, otherwise ????

Trench it ? yes, 700mm deep. Lay conduit and cable 140 m ? no, Talk to the sparky first bc they are responsible for all the install. Then if they approve of you doing the conduit and cable install you are safe.

Looks very much like a patio mobs roof possibly aluminium, maybe Truline Alcan etc but why even bother to replicate the sheets, simply go to a sheet metal shop or Stratco or any roofing supplier and get some covers made to match the existing poly panels. Screw in place job done and if they cannot match the length simply use plumbers and roofers silicone to join them in the length edit...Just looked at the underside pic and it is aluminium AND you cannot walk on that stuff so plank/planks...

Firstly forget the existing storm drains bc surface water should not go to the existing bc when downpipes flow down from the roof, water comes up out of surface drains, so look for ways to get the water to flow downhill even to the yard where it may be able to simply flow across the footpath etc

Remove the slate, inspect what you have left, then make the decision to either remove the concrete or build the new deck on the existing concrete.

Maybe your 2 do but as I am trying to explain, diverter spouts have buttons.

Not correct Where you may have more than one knob Diverter spouts only have one button.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=bath+diverter+spout&form=QBLH&sp=-1&ghc=1&pq=bath+diverter+spout&sc=6-19&qs=n&sk=&cvid=D690E6C3398C48DD9E02012E421DE3EC&ghsh=0&ghacc=0&ghpl=

From the pics looks very much like the spray on texture coat from 1970's Paint shops may be able to help with today's products and applicators.

My experience is with gal and hot zinc spray, so no idea, but why not ask the Galvanisers, they may know. Electroplating/chrome plating works may also know.

Gees Metrix that's a novel you've written and it is very skipper of your Plumber to do the work for you, and at that cost if he has not supplied any materials, then one can only assume he has charged approx $130/hour for the 2 of them, maybe $90 for himself and $40 for the apprentice. But back to my question, what do you think the job should cost or have you never done bed and point ??

You may very well be right but what is it worth to work at height without safety rails.

It's a small job and the contractor has already driven there once, and given a quote for free on a small job so what is that worth in todays money ? The OP has asked for bed and point so He then has to bring sand cement and/or colour point to the job ??cost ?? Climb on the roof ??how high is it ?? Remove 6 ridge caps in 2 different locations while standing on the roof edge, did I mention how high ?? then clean off all bedding and pointing from caps and roof tiles Then mix bedding and...

And don't ffs tell them it is a bugger of a job or the price will quadruple.

Yes, good stuff The panels you refer to are used in cold rooms throughout Aust to freeze and store produce so yes, they keep heat and cold out and in depending of course if the room you are building is able to be cooled by natural occurring situations or you may have to introduce cold and heat as required via maybe a split air con unit. Also the panel thickness, 50 or 100 mm will dictate how much temperature change occurs as well as outside temp i.e how much sun is required and...

This would probably work although these tools are no longer available Could always use a good pair of vice grips with maybe chain and crow bar as a lever but I would guess most sparkies would simply either leave the old one in place or cut it off at ground level.

Probably been that way since it was built so really not urgent, but you know about it so only you can decide. I have seen a lot worse on older homes.

Push it back up and nail or screw a packer under it and also nail or screw the batten to the packer. Or even lifting and just renailing / screwing it to the existing may be ok but cannot tell from the pic If the batten is warped from hanging down then replace it but it looks ok Get a carpenter if you don't want to do it yourself but it is a really simple task if you have the tools and knowhow.

Waiting for hot water to get to the tap is normal and depends on the distance from the water heater to the tap, but you only mentioned cold being hot at the kitchen The kitchen problem is possibly valves controlling water heater ?? non return valve, tempering valve ??

Probably not necessary provided the waterproofing is done correctly i.e joins taped however talk to the waterproofer in regards to angles and their location.

If it is only the kitchen tap that may rule out water service and may indicate mixer tap itself (what brand and how old ?)

Let me know when you're finished