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Every painter I have used has always done ceilings flat, walls low sheen, bc easy to wash / clean marks off low sheen walls.

Pipe should be plenty thick enough unless of course you decide to hand santas sleigh and ponies from it rather then the lights. But then a back stay will do the trick in that case and whether you set it out of plumb or plumb is up to you. As for square tube you have the problem (in a garden) of rust and also difficult to cap as opposed to pvc.

I agree with using a sleeve cause no sleeve may mean concrete/dirt will break away from the top of hole and fall down the side of the pipe causing the pipe to jam in the hole. Also as in the OP, a sleeve can be above the concrete so very limited chance of dirt/concrete falling in, and, it can be capped off most of the year..

Q1 Yes Q2 Yes I believe 40 gwi with wall thickness of 4 mm is ample but of course bigger is better and you will have to find the pvc sleeve first, probably 50 dwv pvc (Any plumbing supplies) Here they have offcuts in a box at the door. Get 2 caps for the pvc, one for bottom, one for top 450-600 deep should be plenty but up to you Q3 Left the sleeve loose ? why ? or loose fit of pipe into sleeve ? You need the pipe to be loose in sleeve to get it in and out easy cause you may get...

Also no mention of all being replaced or just one or two walls so might be an issue making the corner look good if not doing all sides. Suppose a hardiplank corner would do.

Inexpensive Pressure clean and paint existing fibre cement sheet Next option Replace with hardiplank 230 mm wide plank and paint Comes in 4.2 metre sheet and easy to cut with score and snap blade. Expensive and not easy for DIY Replace with colorbond

An ag drain is designed to collect underground water (and maybe some surface water) so must have rubble /stone up to ground level or, at worst, 50 mm below the surface and to work well, any ag drain should be at or below the level of the foundations it is draining. You are correct, water does not run up hill so ANY storm drain must have an outlet below the level of the area to be drained, unless it is a sealed storm drain (ag drains are not sealed) which uses the head/height of...

Yes I would be concerned with the posts leaning with 60 kg hanging off them As the Professor said, hold weight at arms length and it is heavier than it is by your side. The posts should not bend ? but they will move in the hole as the concrete shrinks away from the dirt. Maybe ? look at over levelling 15-20 mm at the top as a counter to the weight. Another way with heavy gates is a wheel under each gate.

https://www.hpw.qld.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0021/3585/170.pdf Scroll down to Interpretation and have a read.

Ok. you have to cut out the pipe with the hole in it Chip some concrete out to give you room to work. Cut the pipe shorter and use a hex nipple with compression nuts and nylon cones as a slide fitting and a small piece of pipe to join to the tee. If you don't want to use a hex nipple for some unknown reason, then use a compression joiner and file the inner ridge so it becomes a slip fitting.

Won't work unless you file/ream the internal ridge, and ??? even then the FI to compression fitting shown above may not be long enough to cover the hole.. You need a fitting that will slide along the pipe then back again. Unless I am mistaken the tee is capped end (chrome cap) so just get a compression to FI elbow and a hex nipple with compression nut and nylon cone. Chip away some concrete from the pipe without damaging the pipe Cut the pipe between the hole and tee thread Remove the...

Yes to everything. Once the rear wall is gone it may be easier to come up with something better ??

Run a cut down the existing side wall with a diamond saw allowing for the fitting of the new rear cb fence Maybe get a contractor to do it or hire a diamond saw (usually referred to as a widow maker.) These saws will cut within about 50 mm of the internal corner and all the way through the wall where as a diamond blade on a power saw or 9" angle grinder will not go so deep.Your choice. You can now demolish the rear fence Get some heavy sheet metal folded in U shape to cap over the end of...

Usually caused by the roof sheets expanding/contracting over the battens. Very prevalent when cloud comes over. Open the link to roof and walling installation manual Scroll down to 5.3 and read about thermal noise https://cdn.dcs.lysaght.com/download/lysaght-roofing-walling-installation-manual

Example...https://totalbuildingsupplies.com.au/renders/ There are a lot more but this should give you an idea of what to use.

Droog and Finnerz have nailed it. Thanks people. And Bart we have smart meters and no, not remotely read as yet.

I live on the Sunshine Coast 700 metres from the beach. Bathroom on west side. I repainted the bathroom ceiling about 5 years ago. No sign of mould anywhere and all we have is the standard 1200 x 600 window always part open and a small tastic, and we always use the exhaust fan when showering Only when really cold do we use the heat lamps. However we do wipe down the shower area with an old towel every time after we have showered.

Liquid nails and nail on the horizontal angle alternating your nails. i.e one nail to the right one to the left. Easy as with a nail gun.

You could try wet and forget for the mould.

Be aware there are no saddles to hold the existing pipe above the one on the patio edge

Yep, ply/masonite guide, mark with pencil, then jig saw. Couple of clamps to hold the guide in place while marking.

Just put this up for woooooozzzzzza https://dunlopdiy.com/product/dunlop-ardit-floor-leveller/

Search floor leveller Ardit comes to mind. https://dunlopdiy.com/product/dunlop-ardit-floor-leveller/

No not necessarily, look into topping the stamped concrete. Talk to someone who lays the stuff and ask if you can possibly level the area. There are floor toppings can be used https://www.bing.com/search?form=MOZLBR&pc=MOZD&q=floor+topping Last time I saw some laid, the installer was very very particular to the point of utter perfection and the finished job is still perfect today. It was laid on crusher for memory.

No different to connecting a rainwater tank. Pipe from gutter into barrel (via first flush diverter if required) Overflow out of barrel to drain. Although you may need to only run part of the flow into a small barrel or it will overflow onto patio. DIY with 90mm pvc.. Not so DIY with colorbond rectangle downpipe. Safety is important. Set up good scaffold to work on.

No idea what materials were involved so should be asking them not here. And never forget the Guvmint gets 10% of the total job.

Even a small stone under carpet will show up, so that should tell you the base must be perfect. Leave it as is and the carpet will droop into the grooves.