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I have just priced out a small car port using gal posts and insulated roof deck and the cost of the steel for the posts is same as buying the posts made to order and the steel for the beams is within $10/length of aluminium prices, and the colorbond beams from Stratco are way cheaper than buying steel then painting. So do the sums first, it may be just as frugal to buy the shed kit.

At no point have you mentioned testing the base/membrane nor have you stated if the shower is step down with/without hob or sloped floor. This is important. Test the base by placing glad wrap over the waste/grate area and fill to about one inch of water and look for leaks Also look very very carefully for leaks where the glass meets the walls/floor/hob as I have had to repair a lot of these in my time. How was the piping pressure tested i.e did you cap off the shower head then...

Everything hinges on whether the shed is going to be approved or not. Most shed kits come with prior Engineer approval, your own build will have to be designed and approved by an Engineer. Steel prices have risen about 40% so that shows in the 8 k to 12 k increase.

Last double shower I built had foot rests and grip rails on one end only.

Only Spantec has the answer but from what I have seen, their systems are only for general construction and not designed for car port floors but that does not mean they don't have a system capable of carrying a couple of tonnes of 4x4. Quite a lot of suspended car port/garages up here but all timber from what I have seen. https://spantec.com.au/

By all means make their life harder, might work if you play the safety angle. If that does not work and you want to go all the way take it up with fair trading in NSW Hope it works out for you.

I have not been involved in codes for a long time so cannot say if there is a specific answer to the developers statement. I have had situations like this before so I simply call the council for an answer, maybe ask the local council building and/or plumbing inspector/certifier the question. Over the past 30 years a lot of good practices have gone by the wayside especially since the words "in a tradesman like manner" were removed from the codes meaning good practice has been replaced with...

The inspector is correct however What inspector ? Building ? Plumbing ? Is this a new build ? Renovation ? Who installed it ? 1. is correct and you are correct, the wall inside would not be tiled so better the way it is. so it now depends on whether the inspector ? wants it made good ??

Best bet is to remove the architraves then you can see how much gap was left when the original window with jams was installed as they are usually made loose and packed before nailing through the jams. But of course in your situation the new jams will have to be neat to brickwork,sill and head.(can't see the head in pics) Once architraves are removed you can get the local window manufacturer to measure and quote. They will have people who fit if you don't want to do it yourself.

300 is not much room to restump so I would assume any stumper would talk to you about removing flooring but you would have to justify doing that i.e is it really necessary to do anything at the moment because any money you throw at it now will most likely be wasted, so unless it is causing you untold problems I would probably live with it and maybe bring forward the raising.

Assuming you are going to grind the floor to remove the glue see what it is like once you have done that. You may have a spring under that particular spot. Anything is possible with water. Is there any possibility there are drains under that area. I have come across situations where water tracks along the drain trenches.

It's usually referred to as rising damp and yes it is rather wet here at the moment The fact it is pooling makes it even worse. Need to know the lay of the land to address seepage problems What type of construction i.e Are you on a slope Is the home cut into the land How old is the home as in could there possibly be water services poured into the slab circa 1970's-1980's

Any sort of traffic stopper to catch the drivers eye and make them proceed slowly will work. I have already put up a pic of a delightful traffic stopper but the mods removed her.:)(

Yep

That's what chain saws are for.

Repaint was necessary due to a colour change on the front of the house but it was due anyway along with some repairs and removal of rotten timber. Suntuf/plastic sheeting is not easy to screw neatly when screwing the ridges of the sheets and yes, all sheets should be screwed at the ridges, but being short sheets and having a heap of the 25 timber fix screws plus, the battens are only 25 mm thick otherwise I would have to change battens or the 50 mm screws would have gone through...

Have a good look cause you may find wet rot in the battens. I have just done what you are doing and I ran the sander over the battens and repainted before sheeting with sun tuff. What I did which is not the norm is screw the sheets in the valley's of the corrugations not the ridges, reason being less leaks than when screwed on the ridges. My sheets are only 1100 long. I used 25x12 type 17 hex screws with neo washers.

(1) That's the best way (2) Not sure that is necessary What I have found is when acrylic is used over old acrylic surfaces such as render concrete besser there appears to be air bubbles/pockets which form I notice it a lot on unit blocks around here so whether it has anything to do with humidity I don't know but certainly it stands out not long after it has been painted. If you want it to last then take it back as much as possible then consult with the paint suppliers. Personally I would...

Without seeing the overall set up it is difficult to pinpoint the cause I would clamp them and run a 1/2" bolt or threaded rod through them both for safety. And while on the safety subject you should not go in the ceiling with the power on, turn it all off. People have been electrocuted in ceilings. I had a sparky leave 2 bare live wires in a ceiling after wiring some downlights so don't for one minute think everything is safe with electricity..

It operates fine about twice a year when necessary but yes, does not feel totally positive in it's operation, more so a little crunchy which tells me I have to replace it today but I have just never had a plain switch turn itself on. Years ago I did have a toaster turned on at the wall not being used which blew the lead out of the 3 pin plug, but that turned out to be a loose wire in the power point arching. No pets and the switch is about 1.4 m above the floor. Bob may have...

No, never on unless manually flicked in overcast weather about twice a year.

Anything is possible but I would think any leak would trip either through the earth or neutral.

Switch on, pilot light on. Switches are spring loaded so if the springs were to go out of shape I can see how a switch could pop to the on position but I am more curious as to a spike causing it to go to the on position when the off peak kicks back on.

You will need assistance of course and be careful, anything colorbond can scratch real easy.

No chance, this switch is in the hall way, backing onto the linen cupboard, totally dry. Unless of course you are thinking humidity 82% right now..

Not too hard to remove replace but pencil mark all pieces as you go so they go back in the same/exact place. Draw a plan where all pieces go. May have to drill some 1/8" riverts out and best to replace the screws when you refit everything. Silicone to remove scrape off. In order downpipe off gutter off gutter flashing off side flashings off

From what I remember Pumped discharge (wash machine) from a fixture to a floor waste gully must be at 45 degrees entry to stop sudsing and overflow The floor waste gully must have an outlet of 100 mm The floor waste gully must be in the same room as the fixture.