David.Elliott

It works for the Choox

So for the cost of a few tools (at wholesale) they now have a person who will probably never buy another Sidchrome, and will tell everyone that listens that they won't honour their "lifetime" warranty... Imagine the story the other way around and the mileage Sidchrome could get for themselves by telling the story widely and well. Short sighted, much?

Hey CB, Do yourself a favour and go to https://www.blocklayer.com/deckcalculator.aspx Entering the costs for the materials calculates automatically and then doing spacings etc. is super easy Don't forget to donate too...

My go to these days is Soudal Fix All, only grey, white and black though. Great all round adhesive/sealer.

IF you can get the fitting down some Soudal Fix All in black is the perfect solution. Run a bead down the sides, finish with a suitable tool and clean up with turps.. Done well it would actually tidy the finish of the fitting up nicely.

I'd suggest that you get a brickie (easier said than done) to brick up the space and brick in the window at the same time... Lots of challenges with this matching bricks etc, but definitely worth the hassle if you can do it...

This screams at me... We make painting fun, simple and rewarding — here’s how Painting will NEVER, EVER be fun...

Hi All Thanks for all the quality replies. For the business we do from the studio we only promote our landline publicly. We could point that to our mobiles IF I could get them to work.. @Metrix, the Wifi Access point on the wall is POE so I do have one pair spare, so that's an option. Not sure which ones, so it'd be a cut and see. Ran Cat6 gel filled, with only bends, no elbows. @Bart1080 WiFi calling: cannot seem to get it reliably working on my android native mobile, and on the wifes'...

The new phone will need to be connected to an RJ11 port somewhere in the studio. The router in the house is already connected to our series of DECT phones, could piggy back off that IF I had a cable run to the studio. The studio is a converted 3 car garage well away from the main house. I ran ethernet underground to it when putting the power in, and have a POE wireless access point in the room.

Just done something the same... Mine was part original and part extension. The two parts had different size beams and different pitches, so I had to cut wedges/tapered timbers to make the 10.8m run the same plane. Also packed out the beam to make it that same size and wide enough to take the fan bases without hanging out the sides... Used pre primed MRMDF lining boards secret nailed and glued

Cutting that material without chipping could be a challenge... 18mm would be the minimum to allow depth of hole for the euro hinges and I suspect 21 could give issues with closing??? How are you going to edge it?

Seems like overkill to me, with the cost implications attached. I'd say the foil sarking and the R5 would be perfect on their own..

I found a laminate supplier that has a cheaper "liner" laminate. 3000 x 1400 = about $55.00ish. No good for surfaces that get wear, but inside doors and drawer fronts, perfect. I use contact adhesive to glue that to the back of the panel, leaving a few mm overhang and then use a trim router with a "laminate" bit to trim flush with the door edge... Yep, those are "shaker style" doors. The base is 12mm MR MDF and the outside frame is 6mm standard MDF as MR not available in 6mm. If you're...

I make MDF doors from scratch, and I presume the Kaboodle doors are MDF too. Hopefully they are MR MDF, which is what I use. Inside the doors I laminate with a liner laminate in white, then mask that off. Outside I spray a nice coat of oil based primer then two coats of oil based enamel. A good sanding and tack cloths are required. Progress pic ...

how is something that requires additional machining and additional toxic chemicals environmentally friendly? My guess would be that the claim is based on them using lots of small lengths (shorts) that would otherwise be wasted...