droog

For a single light fitting wired in 1.5mm2 a 12mm hole should be sufficient, if there are daisy chained fittings a 19mm hole will be easier to thread. Of course take into account any structural implications if it is a narrow beam.

If you want the wiring hidden then the only option is to drill through the beam / rafter. Is there ceiling lining above the beam or are they exposed all round with ceiling further above ? Pictures would help.

Removing the regulator will kill the battery before long, as running flat out will boil the cells, you can do basic welding just with a 12v battery. Arc welding (MMA) is usually electrode positive (DCEP) but can be used either each have pros and cons https://www.weldclass.com.au/blog/37-the-mma-stick-welding-process-your-questions-answered Other option is converting an alternator for it http://www.opensourcemachinetools.org/archive-manuals/TIG-Welder.pdf I remember some folk that had...

Yep clearly marked!, use the correct connector and lead. As you appear confused by the instructions so it would be best if you get an electrician involved to point you in the correct direction.

Optimus for the win again :partysmiley:

I believe some of it will be dependant on the reason for installation, eg BAL, construction close to boundary, external fire source, etc. Identify the manufacturer and then look up the design and installation guides, eg for CSR Gyprock: https://www.gyprock.com.au/-/media/gyprock/content/documents/install/residential-installation-guide/gyprock-547-gyprock-residential-installation-guide-2018.pdf...

A few clearer pictures may be required.

Try lifting your choke welder into your trailer so you can get it to the worksite, now visit a welding store and sling a modern arc welder on your shoulder to take to the job. A choke welder is a large iron cored transformer type welder, an inverter gets the job done with semiconductors. Large transformers and coils have huge in-rush current when you first connect them which is why they often trip a circuit breaker when you first connect them, small generators cannot support this big initial...

Have done a little using a small portable generator and a small inverter welder, doing shed framing with 2-3mm RHS and angle. Any off the shelf generator should have overload protection, usually just a circuit breaker that will trip. I doubt you would have much success using an older style welder but maybe someone has actual experience.

Without a lot more detail of scope of works and site conditions there is no way any estimate would be possible. As you already have cost estimate for the steel stumps and a restumping ballpark there is no-way the total would be a 30k job, I would thinking 100k as a starting base for the structural works particularly with the current market.

Yes, the fact that it is an amateur bodge job and potential for leaking into the ceiling space of the room below. Where is the trap in the pipe ?

Are the holes near the nails where the tradie first tried to nail ? �� Bandage can be used over small gaps / holes, but looks like your nails have been over driven. They should be flush, not driven below the surface. The new skirting tiles will cover the surface damage but you will need to trim and repair any loose paper facing on the plasterboard to give a sound surface for the waterproofing and tile adhesive.

Heat to soften the glue and remove, applied from the outside so it heats first. Take it slow, too much heat and the PVC will burn. Or a slitting saw on a long arbour down inside the pipe. Your other post mentions limited access from below ? cut below the floor and use a connector ?

Being a primarily Australian based forum there may be limited knowledge of appliances local to you. This side of the world we use metric measurements, there are many wall mount ovens that fit 600 x 600mm (around 23 5/8) as a flush fit and will mount proud with a smaller cutout. https://www.winnings.com.au/public/manuals/Westinghouse-WVE614SA-Electric-Built-In-Oven-User-Manual.pdf

Just give them a rub down with wet and dry, grade will determine the desired finish. Raw will tarnish so a coat of clear if desired. Satin or Matt finish if you do not want Gloss.

Look up some of the manufacturers websites like Arden or Sika, they normally have tables or selection guides with max / min thickness and if bulking products can be used. Took 30 seconds on the Arden site, up to 90 mm https://ardexaustralia.com/product/ardex-k-900-bf/ Be warned it can get expensive if you have a big area.

Many times I have just mixed on a sheet of plywood. From your comments I assume the picture is from something you found overseas ? Not even sure what a tray like that would be intended for. A link would help.

Check the existing one on the other side for how it was done.

The length of the handrail amplifies the effect, adding support at the mid point works as demonstrated on the left hand side shows this. Adding additional support at the newel post will also have an impact at the mid point. The mid point support should be as simple as dropping a post to ground with a normal post stirrup into concrete, if it is connected to top and bottom of the handrail there is no bending moment at the stirrup only sideways movement. Of course if you want the area clear...

You solution is to prevent the newel post on the right hand side from moving from side to side: The reason it does not happen on the other side is because it has a post half way up the handrail which is tied to the deck above, supporting the handrail. The post stirrups at the bottom of the newel posts support them height wise and keep them clear of the ground but do not provide much support to the post for side to side movement. Your metal fabricator was right in that an aluminium or...

Once you have installed a few jambs and ended up with split timber packers you will find installing them just above the nails causes a lot less headaches. Or you could use plastic packers that do not split. Of course a lot of trades have their own personal methods that work for them.

Is it a non return valve as in stops reverse flow or just a fitting with an auto stop for when you remove the fitting. I can see how a non return may cause the issue as water hammer can increase the pressure after the valve.

Being Perth it is most likely solid brick and concrete floor, hopefully the OP will be back to confirm.

The design of the original veranda appears to be the same as a traditional veranda using tongue and groove boards, these were built with slope on the boards to shed any water that got on them. Check if the current inbuilt areas have slope away from the house, if not it may have been compensated for in the structure built over the original. No reason that should stop you from building an even higher level floor but may impact the work to get your end result.

A lot of installs now use non concrete slabs https://www.sparkydirect.com.au/p/Poly-Slab-PSAC-Air-Conditioning-Slab?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhoL22ZPd_QIVattMAh2tEAoJEAYYAiABEgJz3_D_BwE

You can get the clamps that screw onto all thread, chemset the thread into the slab and cut to length fine adjustment is the thread. https://plumbingsales.com.au/20mm-gal-steel-pipe-nut-clip-10mm.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6ZLa493a_QIV1SMrCh1MXw9rEAYYCCABEgKP8_D_BwE

https://plumbingsales.com.au/clips-and-pipe-support/20mm-clip-head-suit-pressure-pvc.html https://plumbingsales.com.au/clips-and-pipe-support/300mm-hanging-bracket-light.html https://plumbingsales.com.au/clips-and-pipe-support/adjustable-stand-off-bracket-galvanised.html

I think Marc is suggesting this: :D

Roof trusses are engineered structures so advice on a forum is not going to replicate the engineered design. If it was a single member my approach would to be insert a tight fit replacement section then sister equal size members either side at a length as long as possible. As this is the removal of both top and bottom trusses I would engage a structural engineer for advice. I am not an engineer.

Follow the link I posted in #3 The newel posts are the bottom posts on the handrail. As the post has no support at the top it needs proper support at the bottom, the left handrail has a post halfway with support from the deck above, the right one does not have support and is the cause of the shaking. Supporting the post from sideways bending is the solution that is not provided by normal post stirrup.