havabeer

many of the "30 second cleaner" or "wet and forget" products which are pretty much just bleach will get it off.

if you've had surveyors out and located the boundaries and its the top of the wall... so this sentance from your other thread you've got an engineer that says don't do it. Let this nut case goto QCAT and let them sort it out. I would have thought with a wall like that, that the wall IS the fence. I also go with your original idea of some start pickets and lattice or netting, tell him its a safety hazard having a huge drop like that and you're just putting this up temporarily till...

Im still confused, why do you want a new fence on the boundary when you already have one further back on the timber sleepers? If engineers are saying no, you're going to struggle to get anything done, and most solutions are not going to be cheap. I'd rip the trees out and pretty up your side of the wood wall and pailings as best you can and call it a day. Could also put a french drain in where the trees where as well to try and control some of the water going into his yard.

So do you want a fence... or do they? Either your pics arent working in either thread so cant see whats going on

sounds like alot of effort, does water now pool on top of the deck? I want to do a similar thing, I intend to just put a sheet of colourbond roofing on the underside of the decking boards and angle it down away from the house, so that any rain goes through the decking as per normal but just hits the colourbond and drains away. something similar to this

another option is as mentioned its only a small area.... its the most labour intensive, but you can use strong round up with a bit of dishwashing liquid and hand paint the onion weed leaves. the dishwashing liquid acts a surfactant and breaks down the waxy coating and holds the poison on the leaf long enough for the plant to soak it in.

there is a very expensive select herbicide that does onion weed (I can't remember if i bought it or not) as our back yard was full of it. the problem is that its SO expensive but seems to do huge area as a packet will cover 20,000m2

i thought linishing was more a polishing process and sanding was material removal. so sand to take off material and then linish as a sort of finish rather then bulk removal. both are terms interchangeable nowadays

you'll need the forced ventilation on for weeks to consider drying it out. a simple floor fan isn't going to do much. you're also far better off "sucking" air out from under the house then trying to blow air in, sucking the air will draw the warmer in and over the whole area, trying to get tons of air FLOW to promote alot of air exchanges, rather then BLOWING the air in and just pressurising the whole area. You'll find almost all sub floor vent systems will have open vents on one side and...

go with droog, add some wieght to the rear of the shoe pocket or just buy a $3 magnetic door latch from Bunnings and small metal angle bracket and just screw them to the side and the front?

this.

which part is 70 x 45?

Just concrete it and be done with it. The pavers will move, sink, grow weeds etc. And years later you'll rip them up to put solid concrete in anyway. Its also flatter and easier rolling stuff alson compared to bumpy pavers and quiker install. Not sure of the price difference though

I'd go the ply just so you can glue and secret nail the boards down easy. won't this create a step down from your bed room to the rest of the house though?

I can't see more coats fixing that darkening problem, you're probably going to have to sand it back to fresh timber and go again. what "toxins" are you specifically worried about? being outdoors I don't think you really need to worry about VOC's too much either being out doors there is going to be a large exchange of air as the product dries.

and is probably just going to ask the water to find some where else to come out. I guess the easiest place to start is to wait till you actually get some dry weather so the water stops coming up through the cracks, get a masonry wheel for your angle grinder and run it along the cracks just to make it slightly bigger and jam a tube of silicon into it. could possibly use a hydraulic cement as well. https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-415g-brick-and-concrete-sealant_p1230973 opening the...

so our local kitchen installer came out measured up and talked to us about what we wanted and then gave us the option of assembling/screwing the carcasses together to save money. they then came out and did the install. they also organised the stone masons to come out and measure up and install, the kitchen installers words where "if you go through us all the warranty and defects have to be handled by us, you can get them to come out and maybe negotiate a better price but the warranty and...

so you heard the paint was crap so you still went out and bought it?

kaboodle is convience, purely in the fact you can goto a bunnings and get one. the quality is very dubious. I've never used it and probably never will you can goto a cabinet maker and they'll spit you out a bunch of cabinets on the CNC with screw holes all wrapped up in shrink wrap with labels. if you can do bathrooms etc you can do a kitchen, its just a bunch of carcasses with a benchtop, nothing too spectacular. I've watching someone do our's there's no way i'm paying someone to...