joynz

Yes. Cover plates in Vic. I was beginning to think that I was living in an alternative universe.

I would be tempted to use the ‘escutcheon ring’ as your next shower head might require a longer nipple - and if you’ve cut it off …

When I did square set, we had never done it before so just filled the taper. We used either tape with a metal spine or the thick plastic profiles. I believe you can buy plaster with one long non-tapered edge - but we just got the regular stuff. With raked ceilings, there were a few cuts to make.

Darker Colourbond gets mouldy too. My pale eucalypt coloured roof got mildew - it wasn’t obvious from the ground though.

Depends. Any screw holes will need to be patched by the plasterer. And with any glancing light along the wall you might see the patch. But when whole walls are plastered, extra blocks are used to hold the plaster sheet - so filling screw holes is part of the process anyway - well it is in Vic. But it tends to be above/below eye level. I would probably try to avoid it though. Can’t you just rest the plywood on the floor and keep it in place with the dishwasher?

Do you still have the old door?

If it was me, I would just cover it with something temporary- because even if you seal it, you might still get grease splashes - and primer/sealer isn’t really washable. For example put a plasterboard off cut behind the dishwasher to cover the wall area - standing it on the floor. Or an oblong of building wrap pinned to the top of the wall where the holes won’t be noticed and taped to the floor. Even a piece of fabric - but make sure it isn’t a fire hazard! Or just cook carefully -...

How close to the cooktop - and is it on the same wall? Also, how close to the sink?

Or even that rubber flooring that gyms use in the weights room. Looks like it’s made from recycled rubber. Not super attractive - but probably effective. Bunnings might have it.

You could have spay foam insulation sprayed to the underside of the floor. When I was looking into this I saw two types - one was more rubbery when it dried and one more brittle/hard. Not sure which is more effective at absorbing sound. I would put carpet in the hallway, with thick underlay.

A few years ago when I was doing my ceilings, CSR advised me that standard 10mm plasterboard was fine for ceilings or walls. Including bathrooms. Maybe they have changed the advice over the last 10 years? But they did not advise any need to use superceil or 13 mm at the time. My ceiling is fixed at 450mm centres (and glued too).

I’ve used the Earls Multiflex flexible wood filler. But you’ve got to apply in 6mm layers so might not be suitable for large holes. For large holes, I’d go with bog every time. And it’s probably cheaper. On my rotten windows, I filled most of the holes with bog and then the last few mm with the Earls product as I think it’ll resist moving. But this is on a flat surface - not filling the centre of a post. For a house you’re going to sell, go cheap but effective. Even the wood...

Luckily it’s easily fixed with that special silver tape. Don’t ask how I know…

Roofing blanket - e.g. anticon.

Did you want the lopper to leave the branches on your side so you could throw them to the neighbours? Or did you want him to leave them on the neighbour’s side himself? Because, even though I know it’s legal, I can see why he wouldn’t want the potential punch up (or at least complaints) from the neighbours!

I would call them back.

You could just use builders bog and bog it up. You can nail and screw into bog too.

My suggestion about pushing it back was if it had dropped on the edge near the moulding. If it’s around the light, it’s more likely to be related to Marks comment about water ingress. Go out in a rain shower and you might find water pouring out of/around the light.

Re. Mould I would start by washing it with a vinegar and water solution - use the ‘three buckets’ method Choice recommends. Vinegar actually kills the mould organism rather than just bleaching it - which is all ‘mould killer’ does. https://www.choice.com.au/home-and-living/laundry-and-cleaning/surface-cleaners/articles/getting-rid-of-mould If any discoloration from the mould remains after this treatment, you can use bleach then. Remove surface dirt with detergent. Re. Sagging:...

And you won’t be getting any more rent by adding a retaining wall!

Just get someone to pick up and stack the bricks so they aren’t lying around everywhere. That’s all you need to do if you and the neighbour are planning on adding a retaining wall and fence in 3 months. It looks like it didn’t have a fence before anyway…

I feel your pain! What a frustrating experience! Before starting any further work, I would read the manufacturer’s instructions very carefully - and more than once. It’s really easy to miss a step or an asterisk in the fine print. For example are they designed to stick to ‘concrete’ (do you mean floor leveler or actual concrete?) Also, since this is an Australian site, some of our terms may differ. You mentioned a damp wooden sub floor - is there ventilated air space underneath...

Get her a swivel chair or carousel sliding bath transfer bench. Google it. Very important to ask her physio to advise which is best. She may even be able to hire one. This equipment is designed to help people with limited mobility get in and out of baths.