phild01

I have always used either non glazed ceramic, or non glazed porcelain tiles in bathrooms. Never had issues with either, if you are after that super glossy look, you can get polished porcelains. I would avoid the polished porcelains on the floor especially in the shower recess, these are notoriously slippery when wet and very dangerous. Go for a silk or matt finish on the floor, be careful some cheap matt finish porcelains are very difficult to clean, look for reputable brands.

What is the sheen level like? Not sure about the claim suitable for vehicles...can't imagine a car sprayed with it :D

According to general information, crazing of Glazed tiles can be quite normal, it has to do with the glass layer on top of the ceramic layer, and they are moving at different rates. Doesn't look like you can do much about it, this does not effect the performance of the tile, here is some info. https://legacy.tile.com.au/Tile-DIY-Info/Tile-Care/The-Tile-Doctor/Hairline-Cracks-in-Glaze

Welcome..any pics of the caravan:)

There is a set of "standards" requirements for boundary fences. Below is a doc to part of the requirements, once you get onto the planning portal website you can get lost for days trying to find info. https://www.planning.nsw.gov.au/-/media/Files/DPE/Factsheets-and-faqs/Assess-and-Regulate/Exempt-development/1491_Facsheets-Exempt-Developments_Fences_v4.pdf?la=en I can't find the requirements on the NSW website, (from memory) it used to be for boundary fences past the front boundary...

I found it best to buy them wet and install while still wet, as long as they are securely fixed in place. I also select ones I think look stable.

Below is the exempt development for NSW, Vic probably has a similar policy. https://pp.planningportal.nsw.gov.au/development-and-assessment/planning-approval-pathways/exempt-development/balconies-decks-and-patios

Too much of it around still, too many deaths. Just not spoken about anymore. I'll wait until it is milder and less abundant. We still don't know what can happen now China is spreading so much of it around the place.

Still wear a mask so no experience with it.

Agree, I wouldn't ever put timber floor in a wet area, I have seen the consequences too many times when something goes wrong. Scyon or durafloor are the standard goto products nowadays. Also agree, if you are trying to hobble together two separate units that are not designed for this, it's asking for trouble. Do it right the first time, then you won't have to redo it later.

I had my plumber hook up a new LPG installation here, there was him and his apprentice. They were here for about 4 hours, decent amount of crimping and bends involved to get from outside the garage to the upstairs and downstairs and under the downstairs slab. Everything was concrete slabs to attach and clip to, pipework had to go over three levels, I did the some work prior for them like drilling through the suspended slabs to make it easier for where the connections were to go, and...

Stevo, do you want them to hang down far from the ceiling ? I did a job once and noted the suspension kits seemed expensive for a bit of piss ant wire, there was a lot to be done at various heights. Ended up getting 100m roll of 2mm stainless wire (you can get them online cheap, or even Bunnings has them) . Got 2mm swages and eyelets and just made our own, some saddles attached to the light and cheap small carabiners. An easier way just use some light duty chain and some hooks into the...

Sounds like they are trying to take you for a ride, keep looking.

How does a yard gully work, I have never hear of this. does it feed into the sewer system eventually, or does it go into the stormwater. What is the difference between one of these and a sewer connection, and why would you have it ?, is it due to insufficient falls ? Some of the disgusting stuff I have seen down shower / kitchen drains, I couldn't imagine it should go anywhere else other than to the treatment plant.

It's illegal to have waste water be it grey or black draining into the storm water, just the same as it's illegal to have storm water draining into the sewer system. Grey water needs to be directed to a treatment plant, storm water eventually ends up in the waterways, it's not good to have waste products from sinks / baths etc being directed to the waterways.

This is a common problem, the glue I referred to is stud adhesive. My current place had this problem one long crack along one part of the kitchen, it was not an extension, rather bad gyprock installation, they had put two sheets next to each other in the same line. I was knocking down part of the wall where the crack was, and needed to put a new beam in the roof for the new opening. When I started scraping the old cracked plaster out, there was three sets of paper tape / mesh that came...

The hoop iron should already be in there when the house was built, there is no way in hell you would ever get down the cavity to fix anything. The hoop iron is embedded in the mortar as the walls are going up.

And that depth depends on the situation, the type of soil, etc, I believe Melbourne is built on reclaimed wetlands ie Swamp. So requirements to go deeper are not surprising, I believe it's what contributed to the flooding in the suburbs around the raceway recently, as much as everyone want's to blame the raceway for putting up a wall, the inherent problem is not the wall but the underlying natural watercourses before non indigenous interfered with this and started building low lying housing...

Definitely not just sitting there with the weight of the roof enough to hold it down, this would result in a lot of I have "misplaced my roof" problems during bad weather. The basic system is with steel straps that are embedded into the masonry wall typically a minimum 900mm down the wall, these are then attached to the top plate with nails at given distances, typically every 1200mm. It all depends on the N wind rating, the roof spans, the type of roof frame etc, heavy duty systems...

This is a interesting topic. I had to go through many years of study / practical to be legally allowed to build structures that are not only fit for purpose but are safe for the clients to use. So many times I see on here and in real life situations where a DIY'R will build an inadequate structure that is not fit for purpose, some are still useable many need extra work and increasingly a lot are downright dangerous. DIY quite often are not following the recommendations as set out by...

Hi Tom, Your website has a useability issue. When you go to the shop, you are presented with the below screen, it's basically impossible to see the categories with the blue text on the bluey / green background. As this is the most important part of the website, I might suggest to change the layout / colours so the products can be selected a lot easier. Also there are a number of links that just go to a black white page. Then there are errors coming up ?

Kerry, please use this site's image uploader for your pics...not a hosting site.

Some of it looks like dags that will knock off with a wide blade. Try tapping at it to see if it breaks free before sanding. If it is a finishing top-coat it will freely sand off. Just be sure not to touch anywhere of the required job with sandpaper as it will gouge the finishing coat.

Here as well, touch wood.

Yep, current place speaking to the neighbours on the weekend, they said they had lived there for 31 years, they loved it as they felt safe, and can't recall of any houses being broken into over those 31 years.

Those tip-on are for doors, they are a simple spring and latch and do fail because they are cheap, I use the Tekform Titus, these are not concealed inside the carcass like the drill in type, but they work. https://www.titustekform.com.au/file/download/758_87f42211c5a7 The tip-on for Movento are integrated into the draw runner system underneath, they are not the ones you linked to. The Movento system is a soft close draw runner, the tip-on adds push to open, so combined you get push to...

The 005 will not drop into place if you have a mortice lock. Either stick to mortice lock type thing. Cut and glue a piece of timber to fill the mortice lock, then fit whatever you want Replace the door and go with whatever you think is best.