phild01

It is very common for water pipes to be a disturbance as water rushes through them. Simply a matter of isolating the pipes to whatever they are held against.

If you can't access the source of the noise I don't know how you will isolate it.

Is the 3/4 hard saddled. Isolating the fix off may help.

Mikaile, please change your profile location, state level as a minimum, it helps with member advice.

Did you start the floor in the middle of the room, on the longest run ? I hope the replacement stapler is ok, you really get what you pay for when it comes to certain tools, a floor stapler falls into this category. Make sure to push the boards really tight if manually doing it, as the flor stapler will smash the boards together leaving zero gap. Did you buy it from Edisons, looks like it from the add ?, they are the worst company I have dealt with, I would NEVER buy any tools from...

I did pine decking in my roof area as walkways and some chipboard for storage areas.

Futons aren't comfy though.

Nope just wonky photo

I don't know if the one you linked to would be any good, as I haven't seen them before, looks a bit small IMO 450 m3/hour is pretty weak. If you are having cupboards above the cooktop, then go for an undermount type. Something like this one has good suction, is completely concealed uses baffle filters instead of the traditional mesh filters so is more efficient, comes in two sizes for 60cm or 90cm cooktops. ...

For a moment there I thought you meant having the flat bar sitting upright as a contradiction but sounds good what you say.

Yes it is, you would be crazy to not put some sort of extraction device in. No it wont, firstly it will be useless, older kitchens used to have this setup, everyone I have seen has grease and crap around the fan, because it's not a concentrated source of suction, it's just picking up random air here and there. You have three options Conventional rangehood, either freestanding or concealed and recirculate the air via carbon filters.

Usually like to have 1200mm as a minimum, anything less and you can get water going everywhere, as Aaron said, the ceiling mount shower heads tend to throw water a bit further, so a wall mounted system aimed at you is a better choice if space is at a premium. I get the fall on the floor tiles in these to be more aggressive, this way the water tends to go towards the drain quicker than hanging around the floor. Thanks, it was a pain in the butt to get rid of the old one.

Easiest thing is to use 1500mm steel lintels, set them in about 150mm from the edge, paint them in the benchtop colour and you wont see them. We usually just get 10 x 75 Grade 300 flat bar in 6m lengths, cut it to size, normally would run it back to the next carcass, notching it into the top of the carcass. Undercoat and spray in the benchtop colour, leaving a strip on the top about 40mm wide unpainted, run a bead of Polyurethane adhesive down this, it will never move, or the boys can put...

Agree with both, Ensuite here has his and hers niche, or probably not allowed to say that anymore for fear of offending someone, so there are two niches suitable for binary or non binary in the shower:U. One is on the white tiled wall which could be for the first non binary human, and the other is on the darker concrete tiled wall for the other non binary occupant :D. Both about 800mm long with LED strip lights in them, best thing ever, as this combined with the behind mirror LED, and...

I wouldn't think mdf will add any advantage, mdf would not be a good choice anyway over hmr particleboard. I would just run polyurthane or silicone between the steel and stone. Some of what is best might depend on the stone type, if man made stone no problem otherwise look to the supplier for their recommendation. It is critical to maintain perfect levelling and assurance that the floor is not susceptible to movement too.

I'd go with 40x20 RHS set maybe 200mm back from the front edge of the bench.

rabes, please use this site's image uploader for personal pics. You may need to reduce the file size as there is a size limit around 1mb.

Would have got better appraisal had you gone with this type: https://bathroomfactorywarehouse.com.au/products/round-shower-station-ox2128shn-ox0119sh-ox-r2hhs?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_id=ac6d1c26d&pr_rec_pid=5605828952231&pr_ref_pid=7661065470169&pr_seq=uniform It's the only type I would consider.

I'm curious how often do you use it as a double ?

What is the end panel made of, is it waterfall stone ? What has the stone supplier suggested ? Normally on an open span that big for 20mm stone there would need to be some sort of steel framing, Steel would be chosen over timber because you can get away with smaller size, 70 x 35 is too big and will easily be seen. Here is some useful info. https://www.caesarstone.com.au/Portals/0/Documents/2020%20Caesarstone%20Design%20Guide.pdf

Freestanding baths are so much easier than built in type, the waterproofing is part of the main room so no stuffing around with hidden lips under the bath etc. There is no trenching the bath into wall frames, etc, installation takes 10 minutes, and the bath stays in it's box out of the room until the room is completely finished, so saves any damage happening to it along the way. Just a couple of points: Yes it is, best thing ever, did it in the last house as well, there is...

You can talk all day about what should have been done, or should have been chosen, the tub that was chosen is fit for purpose, it has the lip to aid in water not getting behind the tub by running the tiles over the lip, doing this does not allow tiles to be installed inside the cabinet because you cant get to the inside wall once the lip is tiled over, so the tiles are run on the outside of the tub (cheap option). You have the better option which is the entire wall has been tiled then the...

There is a file size limit for uploading, resizing the image will help.

I agree, putting holes into perfectly good waterproofing is pointless. I haven't seen glass blades with those floor brackets for a while, always two for the walls, the base is just set on some glazing blocks, and silicone in place. Silicon is very strong, have you ever tried to remove something once the silicon has cured, it's almost impossible, it needs to be cut out. This way you don't need to drill into the floor, as for the strength of gluing them on, probably could but wouldn't be...

Like anything, if it comes loose after some use, usually can be put down to poor installation. Notice I mentioned to use a 6mm glass / tile bit for green plugs, these are recommended to use a 7mm, using a 6mm puts extra pressure on the plug as you insert it, this is required because you are screwing into usually maximum of 17mm (villa + tile). If you use the recommended 7mm bit, the apparatus you are attaching is bound to come loose because the hole was too big for the plug, this is ok...

If it's tiled with villa backing, 6mm glass drill bit (unless they are porcelain then a diamond bit and water is needed), then hammer in green plugs. I have hung hundreds of bathroom accessories this way never any come loose. If it's just villa or gyprock, then hollow wall anchors is the go, these are extremely strong. There are lots of new glues that don't require fixings, I have found for these to work as advertised, make sure to let the glue cure before putting too much weight on...

No one in their right mind is going to use standard plasterboard in a bathroom so I assume you might be talking about the plaster basecoat. Normal basecoat is not a problem if it is used under tiling and it gets waterproofed anyway.

Wavy tiles are nice for adding texture, had to add some texture in as the rest of the walls / floor are matt finish porcelains so they lack a bit of personality :) :) the wavy ones are in a matt finish, they pickup the backlit mirror and vanity really nice at night.

Put the phone into 0.5x zoom, you can get them un stretchy if you adjust the angle, I was crouched down to avoid the mirror so couldn't get the right angle for un stretchy :) :)