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  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    31st Mar 2023, 07:01 PM
    I'm no trailer expert, just know that when mine has a bit of weight it settles right down. So I don't think shockers would make an obvious difference when well loaded, which sounds like your case. Same trailer with the cage as I brought to your place those many years ago for the mulch :)
    4 replies | 64 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    26th Mar 2023, 03:13 PM
    Note this one states "light duty", which I suspect they all are (the handle length indicative of the amount of leverage they can withstand), but OP just needs more than finger tight... just don't add a pipe for extra leverage :) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/385152331456
    17 replies | 357 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    23rd Mar 2023, 09:58 PM
    Yeah the rust and plants and stones and walls will look great. I think you mentioned you would seal the steel once rusted to avoid rust splash on the walls. Did you need to do that?
    673 replies | 53294 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    22nd Mar 2023, 07:36 AM
    450x63 is a very large rafter. Out of interest, how much of it (in height) is left to form the rafter tails?
    8 replies | 230 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    21st Mar 2023, 10:49 PM
    Easiest would be to use stiffeners too then. Or you'd need to check with the LVL manufacturer's engineer as to whether what's left of the rafter would support the verandah, and they'd need the full design parameters of current and new structures, and then probably wouldn't provide a guarantee (if they even entertained the assessment taking place)
    8 replies | 230 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    21st Mar 2023, 08:58 PM
    Ah. I'd only seen the rafter bracket used in a house with no eave, so presumably no need for a stiffener over the wall if there is no rafter tail. Do you have eaves as in the diagram?
    8 replies | 230 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    21st Mar 2023, 08:32 PM
    How are fascia brackets different to rafter stiffeners? Links?
    8 replies | 230 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    19th Mar 2023, 07:03 PM
    I thought you'd recommend an elevator :)
    37 replies | 1016 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    19th Mar 2023, 05:36 PM
    This statement earlier is why there's some focus on stabilising the centre of the handrail .
    37 replies | 1016 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    19th Mar 2023, 05:13 PM
    The plastic Macsim packers are U shaped, nail or screw through the empty space
    4 replies | 362 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    19th Mar 2023, 05:09 PM
    I think I know where the confusion came from. When you say RHS you are saying Right Hand Side, but when I used RHS I was referring to Rectangular Hollow Steel :) I would use galvanised steel. Probably steel angle. I'm just not sure welded aluminium would stand the test of time. Eg if someone fell heavily on the rail pushing it outwards, would an aluminium weld hold up?
    37 replies | 1016 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    18th Mar 2023, 04:55 PM
    I'm not talking about replacing the handrail. I thought I explained it pretty well :) It's an L shape which runs from the inside post, under a central rung and up the outside to attach to the handrail. Like this, but under the stairs
    37 replies | 1016 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    18th Mar 2023, 01:09 PM
    This is a few years old https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2786043 suggests anywhere from 5v to 90v is on an Optus cable. Couple of links within may help
    6 replies | 371 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    17th Mar 2023, 06:23 PM
    Yeah, ok, that does sound more complex, and the fact it's around the whole house (should have realised, being a Queenslander design). It will take time, you'll make some mistakes (hopefully not disasters), learn lots, probably increase your tool collection, and get better as you go. Get some quotes (may as well), and you might get some ideas on how to go about it when they do site visits
    4 replies | 800 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    16th Mar 2023, 09:06 PM
    All sounds reasonable to me. Why does it seem a 'crazy' lot of work? (Maybe I'm missing something).
    4 replies | 800 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    16th Mar 2023, 03:51 PM
    You could have steel (e.g. angle or RHS) fabricated to create a large L shape which runs under a central rung at the deck post, fixed to both stringers, and runs up the outside, fixed to underside of the handrail
    37 replies | 1016 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    15th Mar 2023, 02:18 PM
    My pool installer laid a bed of stone dust and placed 600x600x30 precast concrete pavers for all equipment. This means they can run the pipes without hindrance (eg of a solid slab) and place the dust/slabs afterwards. This was included in the price (small beer in context of the whole project)
    3 replies | 207 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    15th Mar 2023, 08:38 AM
    Ok. If you want a totally smooth finish, skim plaster. Rendering will have options for a few textured finishes, and will probably hide more imperfections. Either will require an expert to get a great finish
    7 replies | 398 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    14th Mar 2023, 03:37 PM
    r3nov8or replied to a thread Camo - a great little jig in Decking
    Rightly. A driver for screw driving. A drill for hole drilling :)
    28 replies | 2677 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    13th Mar 2023, 10:30 PM
    I gotta say, 15-20 degrees 'shake' seems like a lot of 'wiggle'! Does the newel post itself move that much, or mainly the handrail mostly at its halfway point? Assuming the latter, and to avoid redoing anything already redone, I'd do #2. I'd use a gal steel 90x90x2 post into the ground. If not steel, use KD structural H4 treated pine with the concrete footing sloping away from the post Edit: Re-reading, there's lots of movement at the post itself. Could also replace it with gal...
    37 replies | 1016 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    13th Mar 2023, 04:29 PM
    Is it purely $$ stopping you from tiling to the ceiling? Plasterboard (assuming that's what you mean by plaster?) will be 10 mm thick so will probably need some sort of a bead to cover the transition from tile to plaster. Use water-resistant. Rendering, if done well, should also look good
    7 replies | 398 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    12th Mar 2023, 10:30 AM
    As I said in #8, you could add a 90x45 on the outside of post A. All the way up, or just to the height of the balustrade... If your deck boards were running along that length you'd notice the difference in the shadowing onto the deck, but as they are perpendicular that is far less of a concern (just an OCD thing for me :) )
    18 replies | 430 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    11th Mar 2023, 09:15 AM
    Well, Einstein. Maybe it was me who moved away while standing still
    5 replies | 446 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    10th Mar 2023, 05:51 PM
    Hey Marc. Good to see you 'back'
    5 replies | 446 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    10th Mar 2023, 01:49 PM
    r3nov8or replied to a thread Chromecast query in Home Theatres
    Any excuse :D
    12 replies | 705 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    6th Mar 2023, 10:37 PM
    "What material is the desired balustrade to be?" Do you have a photo of the space? How far apart are the posts? "Everything" matters in terms of what options might be acceptable
    18 replies | 430 view(s)
  • r3nov8or's Avatar
    6th Mar 2023, 10:16 PM
    Don't really know what you are trying to solve without a photo, but perhaps place a 45x90 on the 'south' side of A, or 'north' side of B? What material is the desired balustrade to be?
    18 replies | 430 view(s)
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