r3nov8or

What is the subfloor? Concrete slab floor, or joists, or battens (how thick), or...? Also a wider picture to show how long the boards runs are would be good. Helpd see how much effort it would be to relay versus other options such as face fixing (per the subfloor question)

It could be included in an insurance claim for the damage the leak has done?

From the PDF linked above... "Note: if an existing hardwired smoke alarm is being replaced, it must be replaced with another hardwired smoke alarm. "

Compulsory vaccines for all Austrians. More to follow...? https://www.9news.com.au/world/coronavirus-omicron-variant-with-covid-vaccine-mandates-european-countries-are-showing-the-once-unthinkable-can-work/9b7fb6b2-aa69-48ce-a645-ca5be87576bf

It's a bit @@@@@, but if all the floor is going to be as dark as the original under the first tread, then it'll be close to invisible in the end. They may need to stain the cork dark

Haha. Well, I was referring to the end of COVID-19, not the end of the world :D

The Vatican? Oh yeah, that came a little later on, but, how? :D

Sigma will be the next "public" one. Omega is a long long way off, I fear

Maybe the "laboratories" have "discovered" all the variants in between... but they weren't good enough to release in the wild

Yes, they do it from underneath. I had approx 120 stumps done by a pro at that height and less. There was a small team of them who basically stayed under there all day except for lunch. A whole trailer full of bottle jacks, and planks and trays to slide the cement in once all the stumps had been hung tight under the bearers.

It is indeed all a little confusing. Maybe the stud wall is to be treated because this would help prevent termites invisibly entering from ground level. Are they an issue in your location? Let us know how the inspection goes. But you should do all framing before that, including the wall. Interested what they say about the roof and lining being on before frame inspection, as they can't see your bracing or batten screws/tie-down. Progress photos may help with that

The info in your pic says "OR MPG10" for most members, so what you've used for all those is ok The top section for stud walls and purlins only specifies H3 TP Your main issue with what's already built is the purlins/battens, specified as H3 TP but you've used untreated. Whether your inspector will care or even look too hard is "the luck of the draw". Did the permit require an inspection at 'framing stage'? This happens before the roof goes on to be able to observe your tie down methods

:2tsup:

^ This is good VIC based advice. One tip that may help you get it free of distributor charges is that the wire height at your boundary no longer meets regulations. If on inspection they need to raise it (e.g. on a short pole at the facia, (actual name eludes me)) they may disconnect/reconnect for free for "safety reasons". But the electrician will charge , obviously

I've used this to reattach the silicone gasket to the oven door. Still going years down the track https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-310g-401-rtv-engineering-grade-silicone-sealant_p1231042

Interesting, considering Volvo's recent ad campaign that they are going fully electric

Being lazy here. A guy at work is waiting for Novavax. Is there any "credible" reason for this?

The video after that (in my feed anyway) was a 2019 Kia Sorento doing it. Rename it to Pussy Cat Gate :D

...and there are laws about safety rails etc of course, when installing roofs anyway

It's also known as Northern Box, mainly grows in Malaysia and Indonesia, like Merbau? Here's a photo of the 17 year old deck, which back in the day received 2 coats of FW tinted oil. This is from a highly exposed area to both the weather (western sun from early arvo and most of our rain) and high foot traffic. Very pleased with it. Hoping to hero the grey that is showing through the old coating :D

Ouch! Any stiches required?

Cheers The timber is Pelawan I'm going to coat it with untinted Cutek and let it go grey. It joins a 17 year old Pelawan deck which I am going to clean and do the same. Maybe in 15 years it'll all look somewhat similar :D

I've been creating some deck porn...

Scuff it up with 60 grit n paint over it.

I have infilled wall frames between SHS. I built the frames on the floor, stood them up between the SHS and fixed them with steel fix/drill point galvanised Phillips drive screws, then added the cladding. You could use tek screws if you don't need a flush finish

Yes, agreed, a pop/downpipe at both ends (at least) helps greatly if you can't adjust the fall

Didn't follow a lot of the finer detail on one read, but, yes, the V you envisage is known as a butterfly roof. Keep the gutter clean and should be fine

... until the washer gets so bad it barely exists. But good-oh for now :)