r3nov8or

Oh. I thought you were using is as flooring. Do what you like for a table top :) A course thread would be best. The Sika will do most of the work

Not sure, but is it normal to have Scyon itself as the 'holding' material when fixing it down?

I'm not fortunate to have the space to do that :) This is very important! I run it down to 1 hour, without the cover in winter, and running the pool cleaner for that period. Debris isn't a big problem for me. I could swim anytime, if I was keen :) Yep, I'm 100% sure it does!

https://www.renovateforum.com/f180/pool-covers-131709/#post1140346

Pool cover alone won't keep the dust out. And roll it up when it's wet and more dust/dirt is washed into the pool. I use both a pool cleaner ("The PoolCleaner" brand, goes well) and a pool cover but only in summer when I want to retain heat. Daisy brand, ordered through Clarke Rubber. Warranty is 8 years but only if you use a "pool cover cover" when rolled up (it's a white synthetic fabric which reflects the heat so the wet cover doesn't "boil" in the sun. About $40 BITD) I got the...

Or tree branches. Or something.... That's crazy sounds...

If you can wait until all the weight on the trusses is complete (roofing, AC, etc), there will be little more movement to worry about. Certainly no more worry than the regular central plaster junctions of the ceiling and walls

Is it smooth render, or textured? Will you be painting it?

The thin steel walls will likely still be warmer than the AC air temp are trying to maintain, making the AC less efficient than it could be. Depends whether, to you, the AC efficiency outweighs the cost of wall insulation, or not

Plenty of people (including here over the years) like foil board. (Not used it myself) You should insulate the walls too

You are right, it probably needs engineering. Maybe something like these on each side of your 550 rafter and over the top of the beam. Test it with an adult weight off the end of the rafter, perhaps. Turn the picture anticlockwise 90 degrees for what I mean... https://pryda.com.au/product/stud-ties/

300mm is a big beam. I had a similar circumstance, and so got a 180mm PFC steel beam. (Had cleats welded to it to attach the rafters over) You may need a larger PFC (eg 200mm), but will still save precious centimetres. There is a steel span table in the Library which will give you an idea... You will need a hoist and some mates to lift it safely. Maybe simpler - add one more post to reduce your span, and so also reduce your beam size

What length is this unsupported overhang to be?

What happens when the bell is rung?

A concreting floor specialist might be able to grind it flat. The shallower the stamp/imprint, the less it will cost

Lol :D

Agreed

Can you dig out more of the existing pipes, so you can flex them towards you, and slip in the T? The slip/expansion joiners sound good too. Re the concern about flow from the solid pipe to the ag pipe, use solid pipe for a metre or so up the slope and connect the ag to that

I'd suspect the valley flashing isn't quite right and/or the back wall of the gutter is slightly higher that the top of the fascia, with problems compounded by the leaves

Loving the updates :)

Mine is gas, and 140mm. Smeg 900mm range, circa 2004

When did this 'rule' happen? Is it different for a free standing cooker/range, as our closest burners are 140mm from the edge of the burner to splashback?

FY, that would be very popular after the cheese Fondue and car-key bowl lucky dip :D

Maybe it's actually 2 smaller/seperate jobs

If they can lift it into a dumper, problem is already solved : D

Have you tried https://www.geoffcase.com.au/ ? Very long term and popular in Geelong

Welcome Bob!