r3nov8or

I'm no trailer expert, just know that when mine has a bit of weight it settles right down. So I don't think shockers would make an obvious difference when well loaded, which sounds like your case. Same trailer with the cage as I brought to your place those many years ago for the mulch :)

Note this one states "light duty", which I suspect they all are (the handle length indicative of the amount of leverage they can withstand), but OP just needs more than finger tight... just don't add a pipe for extra leverage :) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/385152331456

Yeah the rust and plants and stones and walls will look great. I think you mentioned you would seal the steel once rusted to avoid rust splash on the walls. Did you need to do that?

450x63 is a very large rafter. Out of interest, how much of it (in height) is left to form the rafter tails?

Easiest would be to use stiffeners too then. Or you'd need to check with the LVL manufacturer's engineer as to whether what's left of the rafter would support the verandah, and they'd need the full design parameters of current and new structures, and then probably wouldn't provide a guarantee (if they even entertained the assessment taking place)

Ah. I'd only seen the rafter bracket used in a house with no eave, so presumably no need for a stiffener over the wall if there is no rafter tail. Do you have eaves as in the diagram?

How are fascia brackets different to rafter stiffeners? Links?

I thought you'd recommend an elevator :)

This statement earlier is why there's some focus on stabilising the centre of the handrail .

The plastic Macsim packers are U shaped, nail or screw through the empty space

I think I know where the confusion came from. When you say RHS you are saying Right Hand Side, but when I used RHS I was referring to Rectangular Hollow Steel :) I would use galvanised steel. Probably steel angle. I'm just not sure welded aluminium would stand the test of time. Eg if someone fell heavily on the rail pushing it outwards, would an aluminium weld hold up?

I'm not talking about replacing the handrail. I thought I explained it pretty well :) It's an L shape which runs from the inside post, under a central rung and up the outside to attach to the handrail. Like this, but under the stairs

This is a few years old https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2786043 suggests anywhere from 5v to 90v is on an Optus cable. Couple of links within may help

Yeah, ok, that does sound more complex, and the fact it's around the whole house (should have realised, being a Queenslander design). It will take time, you'll make some mistakes (hopefully not disasters), learn lots, probably increase your tool collection, and get better as you go. Get some quotes (may as well), and you might get some ideas on how to go about it when they do site visits

All sounds reasonable to me. Why does it seem a 'crazy' lot of work? (Maybe I'm missing something).

You could have steel (e.g. angle or RHS) fabricated to create a large L shape which runs under a central rung at the deck post, fixed to both stringers, and runs up the outside, fixed to underside of the handrail

My pool installer laid a bed of stone dust and placed 600x600x30 precast concrete pavers for all equipment. This means they can run the pipes without hindrance (eg of a solid slab) and place the dust/slabs afterwards. This was included in the price (small beer in context of the whole project)

Ok. If you want a totally smooth finish, skim plaster. Rendering will have options for a few textured finishes, and will probably hide more imperfections. Either will require an expert to get a great finish

Rightly. A driver for screw driving. A drill for hole drilling :)

I gotta say, 15-20 degrees 'shake' seems like a lot of 'wiggle'! Does the newel post itself move that much, or mainly the handrail mostly at its halfway point? Assuming the latter, and to avoid redoing anything already redone, I'd do #2. I'd use a gal steel 90x90x2 post into the ground. If not steel, use KD structural H4 treated pine with the concrete footing sloping away from the post Edit: Re-reading, there's lots of movement at the post itself. Could also replace it with gal...

Is it purely $$ stopping you from tiling to the ceiling? Plasterboard (assuming that's what you mean by plaster?) will be 10 mm thick so will probably need some sort of a bead to cover the transition from tile to plaster. Use water-resistant. Rendering, if done well, should also look good

As I said in #8, you could add a 90x45 on the outside of post A. All the way up, or just to the height of the balustrade... If your deck boards were running along that length you'd notice the difference in the shadowing onto the deck, but as they are perpendicular that is far less of a concern (just an OCD thing for me :) )

Well, Einstein. Maybe it was me who moved away while standing still

Hey Marc. Good to see you 'back'

Any excuse :D

"What material is the desired balustrade to be?" Do you have a photo of the space? How far apart are the posts? "Everything" matters in terms of what options might be acceptable

Don't really know what you are trying to solve without a photo, but perhaps place a 45x90 on the 'south' side of A, or 'north' side of B? What material is the desired balustrade to be?