sol381

Can't see any pictures, but if there was no step down at the edge of the slab you WILL have problems, not necessarily from water pooling on the slab but this is also a problem, but from the masonry walls. Masonry walls leak water as part of their construction to the inside cavity, this moisture works it's way to the bottom of the wall and out the weep holes, and is one of the reasons the stepdown is required. If you have no step down for the brickwork the water will end up being sucked up...

If they are in a bathroom, I would go for a poly or similar, bathrooms are harsh environments, and timber loves to go mouldy in them them. You could go for something like CPF Floor (water based) this is a pretty tough product. Or spray can clear coat, these are pretty tough as well.

Old blades will give rubbish quality cuts, 40 tooth on a 254mm blade is only suitable for cutting framing. If you buy blades from Bunnings, look at the Makita BluMak, these crap on most blades for cut quality and life, even though the 255mm blade has 64T, it's the quality of the tungsten that makes it a better blade. For fine finish work I use the 184mm saw, with 60T blades, the cut quality is perfect, you couldn't get a piece of paper between any joins.

I noticed Feast Watson have release a Hardwax product now. FYI, Bunnings have a Hardwax product in the Kaboodle kitchen section, it's made in Germany. I have used it on a few projects and found it to be a really nice product. It's best applied with white scourer, and remove excess with a soft cloth, this gives the best protection and finish. The colour of the timber will get better after about 3-4 weeks once the product has fully cured. If you ever come across the OSMO product out...

Engineer will design the footings, slab and framing after they get the soil test results. Which you will have to organize. He will also inspect the footings and slab prior to concrete pour. You will need to engage a certificer to sign off on the job as well as getting plans approved. He usually just comes to site when the job is complete to do his final inspection and collect all the form 15s and 16s. You dont have to consult council as the certifier will do that. The draftsman can draw up an...

There could be a number of reasons why it's cracked, ranging from how it was attached to the roof or should I say how the battens the gyprock is screwed onto was decoupled from the tin roof to minimise cracking. Sheds are not built like a residential house, there is less structure in them as they are primarily designed as a functional shed and not designed to be a house unless you add additional supporting timbers / metal battens to facilitate using them as a house. So when you treat them...

Looks good, you should only require 2 coats max, Rubio Monocoat only requires one coat, but most will still apply two. It's a different type of product to the regular water / oil based, when applying, putting on less is the best, as it binds to the timber in a different way to regular products. Best to apply it with a white non scratch sourer, let it sit for 30 seconds, then wipe off excess, I have never needed to use more than two coats. It depends on the "look" you are after, if...

Ive got a 5m island in my kitchen. Its on adjustable legs, not a plinth and on engineered floor waterfall both ends. I just put it in place and let it sit. Has 30mm granite benchtop on it. Been there 8 years, hasnt moved a mm. BUT, if you have a plinth base it wouldnt hurt to put a few angle brackets into the floor, If you want. You can also silicone the kick to keep it in place as well.

Easy, , but if you want to use face mount brackets, use an offcut of the I joist as a template, this will ensure the height is set correctly. Best method is to ditch the face mount brackets and go for top mounted hangers, the height is set automatically.

That's why you fit them after the joists are installed.

Yes, it was common for older builders to use timbers for formworks, then once pulled apart they would use them for floor joists etc. My last place was like that, all the floor joists had remnants of concrete on them where they were used for formwork, the timbers were perfectly new, and looked to have only been in contact with concrete once. They were fairly clean, but there was concrete residue on most of the joists.

Plenty of H3 solid non primed in smooth finish nowadays, the primed stuff is finger jointed, it does not last when exposed to rain, the fingers start to split after a few years, undercover it's fine.

No bog will really hold up to the expansion / contracting you get with decking boards. You can try the builders bog, mix in some black oxide to the part A and blend well, then add the hardener. This will give you a black putty, it may last a year or two, but will eventually start to break down, but is probably your best bet.